cable conversion to hydraulic clutch
10-26-2010, 11:25 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 42
cable conversion to hydraulic clutch
I was wonder if it was possible to convert my cable clutch to a hydraulic. If so, can you tell what i would need because i do not have the most experience with clutchs. Thanks
10-26-2010, 02:32 PM
#3
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
I have seen conversion kits in the past, don't see any right now--however as "945L" said, other than complexity it adds nothing.
The clutch lever requires "X" amount of force to move "Y" distance, or "XY" amount of work, to disengage the clutch--for any given pressure plate/spring (clamping force) and throwout lever combination this is a fixed amount of work.
So, it will take "XY" amount of work at the clutch pedal (plus an amount to account for the control mechanism's inefficiencies) to disengage the clutch. A hydraulic system may (might, maybe) have a slight efficiency edge over the cable--however assuming the cable is properly lubricated and the sleeve (and cable) not damaged that gain would be very small.
Many assume, because the hydraulic clutches typically used on imports require less pedal pressure to operate, that there is some magical property to the hydraulic control system that reduces the required force. This is simply not so, these cars have "softer" clutches because the clutches themselves have much lower torque ratings, and much lower clamping forces, and therefore much lower actuating forces.
[edit]
There are hydraulic "throw out bearings" that can reduce pedal force, however that's a whole different ball-game...
[/edit]
The clutch lever requires "X" amount of force to move "Y" distance, or "XY" amount of work, to disengage the clutch--for any given pressure plate/spring (clamping force) and throwout lever combination this is a fixed amount of work.
So, it will take "XY" amount of work at the clutch pedal (plus an amount to account for the control mechanism's inefficiencies) to disengage the clutch. A hydraulic system may (might, maybe) have a slight efficiency edge over the cable--however assuming the cable is properly lubricated and the sleeve (and cable) not damaged that gain would be very small.
Many assume, because the hydraulic clutches typically used on imports require less pedal pressure to operate, that there is some magical property to the hydraulic control system that reduces the required force. This is simply not so, these cars have "softer" clutches because the clutches themselves have much lower torque ratings, and much lower clamping forces, and therefore much lower actuating forces.
[edit]
There are hydraulic "throw out bearings" that can reduce pedal force, however that's a whole different ball-game...
[/edit]
Last edited by cliffyk; 10-26-2010 at 02:39 PM.
10-26-2010, 03:49 PM
#5
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location:
Posts: 3,189
you can get an aftermarket clutch, a new TOB and pilot bearing, quadrant, and a new cable. i replaced all the above (centerforce clutch) and its so much nicer than stock. its not going to make your clutch "import light" but it is better feeling.
the easiest solution is to get into the gym and do some leg and calf exercises and be a man :-P. jk
the easiest solution is to get into the gym and do some leg and calf exercises and be a man :-P. jk
Last edited by MU71L4710N; 10-26-2010 at 03:51 PM.
10-26-2010, 03:53 PM
#6
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Your best bet if you are replacing the clutch is to ask around, however the OEM clutch (again assuming the cable is not damaged) probably has the lightest action of any you will find.
What other manual transmission cars have you driven? If a V8 muscle car is not on the list then you just need to get used to it. I recently installed a RAM HDX clutch (claimed to have 40% more clamping force than stock) and would guesstimate that the pedal pressure is easily 20% to 25% higher than was the stock clutch--I noticed it immediately.
However within a couple of weeks I grew accustomed to it and don't even notice it any longer; my wife however comments (I'm putting it nicely here) on it each time she drives my car...
10-26-2010, 03:58 PM
#7
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Although the total amount of work remains the same, that the after market quadrant does not flex, and thus store/then release pedal pressure, the overall feel is that less effort is required.
10-26-2010, 04:07 PM
#8
I dont see $600 worth it, plus you may have to do fab work on top of it.
http://www.americanpowertrain.com/ca...product=701491
http://www.americanpowertrain.com/ca...product=701491
10-26-2010, 04:09 PM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 251
I agree with Cliff. I actuall had mine converted to a hydraulic clutch and am thinking about changing it back. I had my stang converted from a auto to a manual. I was never happy with the clutch pressure. When converting it did get easier but the travel is much greater. I really dont like it. I did some research on the upr site and they have a quardrant that claims to make the clutch 20% lighter. I would try that first and any of the other ideas cliff has. I still feel there may be a problem with mine because i have the same centerforce clutch as my brother and his pedal even before the conversion was much ligther then mine. I dont know if it has anything to do with the pedal swap but its been very fustrating. I would not recommend the conversion being someone who actually did it.
10-26-2010, 04:11 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 42
So the list of V8 i driven is one other, and its a ford ranger, with a small block in it, and it is 10% lighter then mine, but then my brother has a SVT focus, with hydro clutch in it, and it is so nice. Is that considered import?