DuckyGt

I want some horses from them just not to crazy aggresive how do these look. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMP-...QQcmdZViewItem

JD1969

Cam Style: Hydraulic roller follower
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,800-5,800 RPM
Intake Duration 050 inch Lift: 234
Exhaust Duration 050 inch Lift: 238
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 234 int./238 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 270
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 274
Advertised Duration: 270 int./274 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.550
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.550
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.550 int./0.550 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 113
Intake Valve Lash (in): 0.000
Exhaust Valve Lash (in): 0.000
Computer Controlled: No
Grind Number: XE270AH-13
They are ground on the XE lobe which is less agressive lobe in the Comp line. However that is alot of duration for only .550 lift. I am not familiar with what the piston valve clearance is like on the 4.6 motor, but personally I would like to see a little less duration and more lift esp. if want good street manners.

2000GT4.6

Just trust me on this one, if you do not want to bother with (or cannot afford) to get both the heads ported, and the bottom end forged, don't bother with cams. You are not going to see alot of gain unless you rev well past 6K, and you cannot do this with the stock rotating assembly.

I picked up about 30 RWHP at the very top of the RPM band, but not for very long. I also lost some torque down low.

There are better things to do with the cash than install cams. It cost me nearly 1700 dollars once I got it installed and tuned (had to buy a new chip). I coulda done it myself at my dads shop, but it is a pain in the ***, and it isn't that hard to screw it up.

If you are really interested send me a pm and I will send you a few before and after dyno picutes. I would post em now, but I cannot find em atm.

I think I will have to talk to dan about making a sticky about cams. I think alot of people have a miscoception that they will pick up a ton of RWHP without headwork and a forged bottom end.

JD1969

I have to agree with 2000GT4.6 everybody wants the big but don't realize that there are better HP/dollar mods out there. The big problem is that a big cam just sounds cool, but everyday drivabilty can suffer.

DuckyGt

yea well i have about $1000 to spend what would you think my next best mod would be?

TheBob98GT

SPRAY THAT BIOTCH!!

DuckyGt

thats not an option for me at the moment as much as i want to long story.

DIVER8374

I am also intreasted in this, as I have started to look into getting a set of cams and heads for my car. I do not really want to do anything with the bottom end. But I was defently looking at getting either a set of stock heads and P&P them or buy a set of aftermarket heads with a P&P job already done. I would like to stay N/A so I do not want to use nitros, and I can not really afford a supercharger. I am looking at purchansing parts for this over the next year or so and once I have all the parts save a little for the install/tune and have it all done. So the big question is after full bolt-on's what is there to add if staying N/A? Thanks for any help.

JD1969

Underdrive pulley, upper and lower control arms, better tires. I know the Nittos are a drag radial but unless they hook at 5000 rpm they are not helping you that much. Look into the M/T ET Street Radial. Also consider a full dyno tune by a good shop, the hand helds are ok but I bet you are leaving 10-15 on the table.

TheBob98GT

please tell me the story, im tryin to decide if i want nitrous or heads/cams for my car. thanks