New IAC Install
11-22-2010, 11:44 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 4
New IAC Install
I have a 2000 GT 5spd with about 95K and recently had to replace the IAC. The valve was sticking and the car wasn't starting. I've now replaced the IAC and the IAC motor runs during shifts and a lot times when the car is crusing. The IAC motor is very loud when it runs and also causes the idle to drop below 500rpms like it wants to die. Is there something I forgot to do like maybe reset the battery or is the computer learning that there is a new IAC? The car is starting with no problems right now.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
11-22-2010, 06:24 PM
#2
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
It's only "sort of" a motor, so I am confused as to what you are hearing.
The IAC is a plunger type solenoid valve, in which the opening of the plunger is controlled by a variable duty cycle square wave signal from the PCM. It looks like this inside:
Technically is is a motor, but not in the common use of the term.
When the centering vanes wear they will often vibrate, and with the vibrations being amplified by the intake tubing it can sound like a goose honking, a trombone, and/or other horn type sound--is that what you are hearing?
If so, was the replace IAC new? If not you need a brand shiny new one, if so it's defective bring it back--it should not honk or make any other noise.
Also--yes, you should disconnect the battery for 5-7 minutes to reset the KAM; this will force the PCM to learn the new idle air trim values.
The IAC is a plunger type solenoid valve, in which the opening of the plunger is controlled by a variable duty cycle square wave signal from the PCM. It looks like this inside:
Technically is is a motor, but not in the common use of the term.
When the centering vanes wear they will often vibrate, and with the vibrations being amplified by the intake tubing it can sound like a goose honking, a trombone, and/or other horn type sound--is that what you are hearing?
If so, was the replace IAC new? If not you need a brand shiny new one, if so it's defective bring it back--it should not honk or make any other noise.
Also--yes, you should disconnect the battery for 5-7 minutes to reset the KAM; this will force the PCM to learn the new idle air trim values.
11-23-2010, 05:39 AM
#4
+1 Cliffy, I have no idea what you are hearing that is "running" IAC is pretty much a valve. Is it you're electric fan or something kicking on that you are hearing. The drop in RPM may be a faulty TPS sensor. First thing is the check engine light on???
Last edited by uberstang1; 11-23-2010 at 05:42 AM.
11-23-2010, 05:44 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 4
It's only "sort of" a motor, so I am confused as to what you are hearing.
The IAC is a plunger type solenoid valve, in which the opening of the plunger is controlled by a variable duty cycle square wave signal from the PCM. It looks like this inside:
Technically is is a motor, but not in the common use of the term.
When the centering vanes wear they will often vibrate, and with the vibrations being amplified by the intake tubing it can sound like a goose honking, a trombone, and/or other horn type sound--is that what you are hearing?
If so, was the replace IAC new? If not you need a brand shiny new one, if so it's defective bring it back--it should not honk or make any other noise.
Also--yes, you should disconnect the battery for 5-7 minutes to reset the KAM; this will force the PCM to learn the new idle air trim values.
The IAC is a plunger type solenoid valve, in which the opening of the plunger is controlled by a variable duty cycle square wave signal from the PCM. It looks like this inside:
Technically is is a motor, but not in the common use of the term.
When the centering vanes wear they will often vibrate, and with the vibrations being amplified by the intake tubing it can sound like a goose honking, a trombone, and/or other horn type sound--is that what you are hearing?
If so, was the replace IAC new? If not you need a brand shiny new one, if so it's defective bring it back--it should not honk or make any other noise.
Also--yes, you should disconnect the battery for 5-7 minutes to reset the KAM; this will force the PCM to learn the new idle air trim values.
The noise, now that you mention it does sound like a goose honking. Hopefully unhooking the battery will curb the noise. Guess i could always work on cleaning out the old one.
11-23-2010, 07:45 AM
#7
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
I got the IAC from autozone for $50. It looks like remanned IAC valve to me. Unfortunately, I cannot return it.
The noise, now that you mention it does sound like a goose honking. Hopefully unhooking the battery will curb the noise. Guess i could always work on cleaning out the old one.
The noise, now that you mention it does sound like a goose honking. Hopefully unhooking the battery will curb the noise. Guess i could always work on cleaning out the old one.
It has a 2 year warranty, so if it is the IAC making the noise bring it back and get another...
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I have been running a Duralast IAC for nearly 2 years and 40k+ miles with no problems.
11-24-2010, 09:13 AM
#8
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 2,158
i will say 99% of the stuff from autozone is warrantied for atleast a year, **** i screwed up putting on window tint and returned that to advanced auto for under warrenty because the second batch was damaged so i said the hell with it...they will take back anything.
