Traction Control Question
#1
Traction Control Question
Newly acquired 2000 Mustang Gt. Traction Control works, but the LED on switch is burned out. Plan to get a new switch when I take it out of storage in April. My question is....since it is a momentary switch, not latching, if you have Traction Control shut off, then turn off the car, does it stay off or go back to Traction Control On when you re-start the car?
Thanks....Jeff..
Thanks....Jeff..
#2
pretty sure theres just a lightbulb in there you can replace you shouldnt have to buy a whole switch assembly (but i cant be certain of that, oreillys or somewhere could pull up the diagram and show you).
when you turn your car off, the TC resets back to "ON" unless you have it disabled with a tuner.
when you turn your car off, the TC resets back to "ON" unless you have it disabled with a tuner.
#3
The traction control always sets itself ON after starting the car, the only way to have it OFF is through the tune--and then it is remains permanently off.
The switch does use LED's to indicate status and to illuminate the button legend.
In this photo the top LED is the status indicator, the lower is used for illumination:
On both the cathode is on the left, the anode on the right. They are crimped in and should be able to be replaced once or twice if done delicately; spread the crimp pins with a jeweler's screwdriver, remove the dead LED, then place th enew one and use a small set of chain nose pliers to recrimp.
But there's a gotcha!
The LEDs have built-in dropping resistors so that they can be operated from a 12V source without an external current limiting resistor. Radio Shack does not sell such devices, however they are available--here's an outfit that does supply them.
You can test the LEDs by removing the switch and using a 9V battery to apply power the appropriate terminals (they are labeled on the switch).
Go to Radio Shack and buy some test leads (I use a 9V battery clip with alligator clips, but the test leads will works as well).
The switch does use LED's to indicate status and to illuminate the button legend.
In this photo the top LED is the status indicator, the lower is used for illumination:
On both the cathode is on the left, the anode on the right. They are crimped in and should be able to be replaced once or twice if done delicately; spread the crimp pins with a jeweler's screwdriver, remove the dead LED, then place th enew one and use a small set of chain nose pliers to recrimp.
But there's a gotcha!
The LEDs have built-in dropping resistors so that they can be operated from a 12V source without an external current limiting resistor. Radio Shack does not sell such devices, however they are available--here's an outfit that does supply them.
You can test the LEDs by removing the switch and using a 9V battery to apply power the appropriate terminals (they are labeled on the switch).
Go to Radio Shack and buy some test leads (I use a 9V battery clip with alligator clips, but the test leads will works as well).
- Connect the red lead to the + battery post, the black lead to the - post;
- To test the t/c indicator, connect t'other end of the red lead to pin 6 on the switch, and the black to pin 4--the amber LED should light;
- To test the illumination LED connect the red lead to pin 8 and the black to pin 7--the green LED should light;
#6
An engineer says that a 1/2 full glass is neither 1/2 empty, or 1/2 full--just that it is larger than it needs to be...
#7
I took the switch out and this is what I found. On the side of the switch it has 2 very small light sockets....I mean SMALL. You unscrew those and there are 2 very small bulbs in sockets. One for illumination, one for "Traction Off" illumination. I actually found some at Radio Shack....2 bulbs for a $1.99. I also took my fog light switch apart and found 2 bulbs in that as well. I replaced those also at a cost of $3.50. Those are different and can get those at any auto parts store. You do need to pop that switch apart to do it though....so you are dealing with a few springs, a rocker plate, and a small ball bearing. Not a big deal...but you can screw it up if you lose a small part. I have all the bulb numbers if any one needs them. Lot cheaper than over a $100 bucks for 2 switch's...that worked...but no indicator or illumination.
Jeff
Jeff
#8
I took the switch out and this is what I found. On the side of the switch it has 2 very small light sockets....I mean SMALL. You unscrew those and there are 2 very small bulbs in sockets. One for illumination, one for "Traction Off" illumination. I actually found some at Radio Shack....2 bulbs for a $1.99. I also took my fog light switch apart and found 2 bulbs in that as well. I replaced those also at a cost of $3.50. Those are different and can get those at any auto parts store. You do need to pop that switch apart to do it though....so you are dealing with a few springs, a rocker plate, and a small ball bearing. Not a big deal...but you can screw it up if you lose a small part. I have all the bulb numbers if any one needs them. Lot cheaper than over a $100 bucks for 2 switch's...that worked...but no indicator or illumination.
Jeff
Jeff
#9
Cliff...The switch in front is the TC switch. This gives you a better idea of where the bulbs are. I'm sure the LED's were a better choice, as these are covered in small plastic colored shields to dampen the light a little. I think that contributes to the short life. I did not put the little caps back on the bulb tips, and I ran voltage to each bulb while in place and see no difference. Same with the fog switch in the pic. also...left the caps off the bulbs.....see no real difference. Thank you for the information on the other type of switch. Will use it someday for sure.....Jeff
#10
Cliffyk is right on here, though if the bulb is out, I would look into simply soldering a new LED into the switch rather than buying a new one. Here's a recent setup I did with my TC system:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Qxy8prA87o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Qxy8prA87o