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Rear control arms: tubular round or rectangular?
#1
Rear control arms: tubular round or rectangular?
I have a 98 mustang gt and I plan on getting some new springs and rear control arms. My question for the control arms is, what is the difference between round tubular and rectangular? Also, is their a better brand? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
#2
I don't think theres much difference between them, whats your budget? If you don't want to spend alot I would stick with stock uppers with a nice set of spherical lowers such as Team Z, Baseline Suspension, or Maximum motorsports.
#4
What are the ULTIMATE goals for your ride?
Jazzer
#5
@Uber, Mrtstang, and Jazzer: I am looking to do some basic suspension mods to possibly do some auto cross in summer. I was also thinking about welding in a 6 point roll cage because I have to take out my carpet anyways (long story, basically some mice got into my car and chewed up my carpet ). Is that a decent idea?. I really don't have a budget. I got some tax money coming and I am a college student so in all reality I would like to spend as little as possible, but I don't want to get something if it truly is an inferior product. I was just looking at the cjpony rear arms. I am not trying to be a smart ***, but when you say spherical do you mean cylindrical? Im really not much into strip especially because I don't have anything special done to my engine. That is going to be my last priority because its the most expensive and with the suspension I can build it part by part.
#6
Pound for pound tubular is better.
I can't recall all the scientific mumbo jumbo at the moment but picture a rectangle and putting force on it and imagine the stress of the force traveling through it.
Its gonna come to a dead end 90 degree angle.
On tubing its just going to keep getting dispersed.
Gotta be a reason roll cages and every driveshaft I know uses tubing.
I really like my MM lowers, they are 4 years old with no problems so far.
I can't recall all the scientific mumbo jumbo at the moment but picture a rectangle and putting force on it and imagine the stress of the force traveling through it.
Its gonna come to a dead end 90 degree angle.
On tubing its just going to keep getting dispersed.
Gotta be a reason roll cages and every driveshaft I know uses tubing.
I really like my MM lowers, they are 4 years old with no problems so far.
#7
@Uber, Mrtstang, and Jazzer: I am looking to do some basic suspension mods to possibly do some auto cross in summer. I was also thinking about welding in a 6 point roll cage because I have to take out my carpet anyways (long story, basically some mice got into my car and chewed up my carpet ). Is that a decent idea?. I really don't have a budget. I got some tax money coming and I am a college student so in all reality I would like to spend as little as possible, but I don't want to get something if it truly is an inferior product. I was just looking at the cjpony rear arms. I am not trying to be a smart ***, but when you say spherical do you mean cylindrical? Im really not much into strip especially because I don't have anything special done to my engine. That is going to be my last priority because its the most expensive and with the suspension I can build it part by part.
#8
@Uber, Mrtstang, and Jazzer: I am looking to do some basic suspension mods to possibly do some auto cross in summer. I was also thinking about welding in a 6 point roll cage because I have to take out my carpet anyways (long story, basically some mice got into my car and chewed up my carpet ). Is that a decent idea?. I really don't have a budget. I got some tax money coming and I am a college student so in all reality I would like to spend as little as possible, but I don't want to get something if it truly is an inferior product. I was just looking at the cjpony rear arms. I am not trying to be a smart ***, but when you say spherical do you mean cylindrical? Im really not much into strip especially because I don't have anything special done to my engine. That is going to be my last priority because its the most expensive and with the suspension I can build it part by part.
I recommend you start with FLSFC's and go from there. If you are into a bit of research, and you should be at this point, hit up my suspension guide and be dissuaded from any further consideration of building a CC Mustang
Jazzer
#9
Jazzer, I have read through the suspension guide. It was very helpful and insightful, especially because my suspension knowledge is minimal. After reading that I think I may just scrap the whole plan that I had before of upgrading the factory struts and springs, and going with a coil over set up. I was looking at the koni 1130 1701 kit. Do you know anything about this? The reason I chose this kit is because it is reasonably affordable and my roommate ran the same koni kit on an import he had and said it was pretty good. If I get this kit I won't even be able to get the LCA's (which is funny because it was the reason for starting this thread) for a while because of the cost of the CO's but I suppose thats how it goes. I also will ditch the roll cage idea for now and order some FLSFC's, that way I still get to weld something on to my car
#10
Are you sure that Koni part # is coil overs?
When I google for them every place says 4 Shocks/struts and springs.
And they have the same "Image may not reflect actual part number selected"
I think the part # you listed is not coil overs.
When I google for them every place says 4 Shocks/struts and springs.
And they have the same "Image may not reflect actual part number selected"
I think the part # you listed is not coil overs.