4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

Caster camber plate question.

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Old 03-31-2011, 09:05 PM
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Red2002GT
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Default Caster camber plate question.

When I first bought my car I got some steeda sport springs, bilsteins and some MM CC plates and a panhard bar and ton of other goodies.
A guy at work put them in as a side job dirt cheap and since he knew I only drive about 5k a year and wanted to corner well he put the plates in the negative race position.
Recently I got all new tires and want to keep these longer then the last ones that lasted 20k.
What do I have to do to switch them to the positive configuration?
Is it simply a matter of unbolting the top plates, switching them and then getting an alignment?

Can I do this with the car on the ground susspension loaded or do I need to jack it up?
Will I have to mess with any of the spacers?
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:34 PM
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96meangreengt
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Originally Posted by Red2002GT
When I first bought my car I got some steeda sport springs, bilsteins and some MM CC plates and a panhard bar and ton of other goodies.
A guy at work put them in as a side job dirt cheap and since he knew I only drive about 5k a year and wanted to corner well he put the plates in the negative race position.
Recently I got all new tires and want to keep these longer then the last ones that lasted 20k.
What do I have to do to switch them to the positive configuration?
Is it simply a matter of unbolting the top plates, switching them and then getting an alignment?

Can I do this with the car on the ground susspension loaded or do I need to jack it up?
Will I have to mess with any of the spacers?
I just put my front mm coil-overs on and mm cc plates and yes you do have to swith the top plates to the oppisite side(I think.) I will look at my directions from the kit tomorrow but I do think thats right.

I would think that the car would have to be in the air because when you unbolt the strut nut and the top plate I would think the strut would try to push up through the strut tower hole if the weight of the car is on the ground.

On a side not since you have to swith to top plates anyway and get it realigned will you do me a favor and unbolt you top 4 bolts on your camber plate (ethier side doesn't matter) and try to move the plate in or out to see if it will move while to car is on the ground. The reason I ask is because after I installed everything I tried to adjust my camber while the car was on the ground and I could not get the top plate to move at all. I just wanna see if you can move yours or not to see if somthing is wrong or if its in a bind on mine.
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:38 PM
  #3  
tdcalhoun89
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Originally Posted by Red2002GT
When I first bought my car I got some steeda sport springs, bilsteins and some MM CC plates and a panhard bar and ton of other goodies.
A guy at work put them in as a side job dirt cheap and since he knew I only drive about 5k a year and wanted to corner well he put the plates in the negative race position.
Recently I got all new tires and want to keep these longer then the last ones that lasted 20k.
What do I have to do to switch them to the positive configuration?
Is it simply a matter of unbolting the top plates, switching them and then getting an alignment?

Can I do this with the car on the ground susspension loaded or do I need to jack it up?
Will I have to mess with any of the spacers?
You don't need to mess with the spacers. I took mine to a local shop and had them do the alignment. While 20k to me seems pretty good for tires, for you properly adjust the caster/camber, you would need one of these: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=192. The shop I took my car to after doing the cc plates charged me like $50 for a full alignment. They also tightened everything for me and looked sh*t over for me (I don't have impact tools for the strut bolts/didn't have a torque wrench then).

I'd just find a shop that does suspension alignments and knows wtf they're doing have them do a full alignment for ya. Make friends with them, they might cut you a good deal and help you out!!
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:52 PM
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Red2002GT
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Originally Posted by 96meangreengt
I just put my front mm coil-overs on and mm cc plates and yes you do have to swith the top plates to the oppisite side(I think.) I will look at my directions from the kit tomorrow but I do think thats right.

I would think that the car would have to be in the air because when you unbolt the strut nut and the top plate I would think the strut would try to push up through the strut tower hole if the weight of the car is on the ground.

On a side not since you have to swith to top plates anyway and get it realigned will you do me a favor and unbolt you top 4 bolts on your camber plate (ethier side doesn't matter) and try to move the plate in or out to see if it will move while to car is on the ground. The reason I ask is because after I installed everything I tried to adjust my camber while the car was on the ground and I could not get the top plate to move at all. I just wanna see if you can move yours or not to see if somthing is wrong or if its in a bind on mine.
I'm not ready to do it yet, I'm planning ahead a bit.
I'm gonna order the steeda x2 ball joints, bump steer kit, and maybe the aluminum rack bushings from MM.
I didn't think the struts would try to push up since they are just there as cushion and the weight should be on the springs themselves.
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