MY TC too loose?
#1
MY TC too loose?
Well, I brought my car back to my local tuner because the cel kicked on, and it was just due to my IAT, so we got that all fixed. He wanted me to take him for a ride with his laptop hooked up just to see the readings he would get. Everything seems great. The first thing he was talking to me about was how loose my converter was. First off, the converter is a BC Auto 3500 stall. Now, considering I'm breaking this motor in I cant get on it hard, but I would have the throttle down about 1/4-1/2 way and the car was flashing to 3k already....he said just from his experience the converter first off is wayyy too large for a street car and its loose as well. He recommended going with a 2600-2800 stall, keeping my 4.10 gears. He wants to take my stall out and just sent it to one of his companies and have them tighten it. The price is really cheap, but before I pulled the trigger just wanted to see if guys running a centri setup w/ 4.10s and a stall if this range of 2600-2800 sounded about in line for a street car.
Plus, The car sounds like its going 90mph when Its going 30mph and he said my stall now will absolutely kill my numbers
Just looking for some feedback.
thanks
Plus, The car sounds like its going 90mph when Its going 30mph and he said my stall now will absolutely kill my numbers
Just looking for some feedback.
thanks
#2
Your stall size is fine.
I don't quite understand what he means by your converter is loose. At half throttle I'm pretty sure I'm up and around 3k rpm and I have a 3800 stall. I would give BC Auto a call before you do anything.
I don't quite understand what he means by your converter is loose. At half throttle I'm pretty sure I'm up and around 3k rpm and I have a 3800 stall. I would give BC Auto a call before you do anything.
#3
are you centri'd?
your converter occasionally will get loose, and needs to be retightened. It does take a bit for the car to get up and running, but like you said maybe I'll give Darrin a call and see what he says.
your converter occasionally will get loose, and needs to be retightened. It does take a bit for the car to get up and running, but like you said maybe I'll give Darrin a call and see what he says.
#4
No I don't have a supercharger. Stall size should be determined by your power band and not really how your making your power i.e. s/c, turbo or N/A.
Like I said above I have a 3800 stall and it has great street driveability. My power band is going to be lower than your power band so I couldn't imagine how much a 2600-2800 would really even help you out. I'm no expert but I think you would be much happier with the stall you have now, assuming you get it working right.
Like you mentioned give Darrin a call about your issues and concerns.
Like I said above I have a 3800 stall and it has great street driveability. My power band is going to be lower than your power band so I couldn't imagine how much a 2600-2800 would really even help you out. I'm no expert but I think you would be much happier with the stall you have now, assuming you get it working right.
Like you mentioned give Darrin a call about your issues and concerns.
#6
Wannabegearhead -- it actually DOES matter how your making your power on which size stall you go with. If your N/A vs P/A is a whole different world on what stall your running. It says something that your n/a and I'm s/c and running the same stall as you. your stall should be based on your power curve, which is why you generally see kenne bell'd autos running like 2400 stalls
I emailed darrin, and trust me I know the guy knows his stuff. Darrins stall is a 3500 single disc lockup that I currently have and been running for 3 years now. My main concern is that when I bought his stall my setup was nowhere near the monster it is now lol...It was just a stock motors NPI setup with a vortech. I would imagine I would need a wayyyy bigger stall to get that thing up and running than my current setup now
I emailed darrin, and trust me I know the guy knows his stuff. Darrins stall is a 3500 single disc lockup that I currently have and been running for 3 years now. My main concern is that when I bought his stall my setup was nowhere near the monster it is now lol...It was just a stock motors NPI setup with a vortech. I would imagine I would need a wayyyy bigger stall to get that thing up and running than my current setup now
#7
"Selection of the right stall speed for your vehicle should be matched to the engine peak torque, engine torque curve shape and vehicle weight. In general, the stall speed selected for your converter would be 500 to 700 rpm below the peak torque"
"Stall speed should be matched to engine performance, the car weight, tire size and gear ratio."
Taken straight from Precision Industries website. I'm sure I could find more sites that say the same thing.
I understand you will get different peak torque numbers from a turbo, supercharger or N/A but it's the torque curve they look at when determining stall size not the fact that you have a turbo, supercharger or N/A.
"Stall speed should be matched to engine performance, the car weight, tire size and gear ratio."
Taken straight from Precision Industries website. I'm sure I could find more sites that say the same thing.
I understand you will get different peak torque numbers from a turbo, supercharger or N/A but it's the torque curve they look at when determining stall size not the fact that you have a turbo, supercharger or N/A.
#8
yes I understand that...but all in all a centri vs roots blower you know what type of torque curve it will have...aka obviously a lower stall for a roots blower compared to a centri setup so thats just why I'm saying you can almost figure out what range of stall you would need by just saying you are running a roots vs n/a
All in all, I do understand too that guessing is guessing...the best thing to do is put this car on the dyno, see the curve and match the stall based on that
All in all, I do understand too that guessing is guessing...the best thing to do is put this car on the dyno, see the curve and match the stall based on that
#9
Saying you have a roots blower or centri blower doesn't mean you'll know what stall size to get just from that alone. Other factors are taken into consideration like those mentioned above.
But like you said best thing to do is put it on the dyno and see what the curve looks like and go from there. Unless you're making peak torque at like 3000 rpm a 2600-2800 stall will be WAY to small.
If it makes you feel better my 3800 stall is very driveable on the street and feels almost like stock. Don't be afraid of a "high" stall. You'll be disappointed with a undersized stall
But like you said best thing to do is put it on the dyno and see what the curve looks like and go from there. Unless you're making peak torque at like 3000 rpm a 2600-2800 stall will be WAY to small.
If it makes you feel better my 3800 stall is very driveable on the street and feels almost like stock. Don't be afraid of a "high" stall. You'll be disappointed with a undersized stall
#10
thanks for the input bro
trust me, I currently have the 3500 stall in the car that ive mentioned for the past 3 years so I know what that feels like. To me, its not worth spending money to just swap out to a 3800 stall, so I'll most likely keep what I have, unless I put it on the dyno and see it needs a drastic swap. My main concern was with my new build, the cars a monster now. I dont want to overstall it and start making this thing scream for no reason
trust me, I currently have the 3500 stall in the car that ive mentioned for the past 3 years so I know what that feels like. To me, its not worth spending money to just swap out to a 3800 stall, so I'll most likely keep what I have, unless I put it on the dyno and see it needs a drastic swap. My main concern was with my new build, the cars a monster now. I dont want to overstall it and start making this thing scream for no reason