Looking to but a new clutch in.
#1
Looking to but a new clutch in.
I just bought my first musatng. it a 2000 mustang GT 5 speed as of now all it has is a air intake i also only plan on doing bolt on parts nothing major i am going to be putting in a new clutch and i was wondering what eles to replace while im in thier. i was going to use the ford raceing clutch, ford raceing throwout bearing , ford raceing piolt bearing, SPEC Billet Steel flywheel and a new clutch cable. is thier anything im missing any parts i dont need any parts that you would recomand over others also is thier any new seals i should get. sorey for the long post but want to get it right. thanks
#2
unless the clutch *cable* is an official FORD part, i would skip it, if its aftermarket adjustable, they're usually crap. the original OEM part has been found to be the best. your parts list looks great for the install.
nother good idea for some, is to replace the clutch quadrant hook and a firewall adjuster. go with a quality product though, not a cheap knockoff.
i have the UPR firewall adjuster and clutch quadrant, and honestly, the quadrant has a tiny bit of room in it that causes it to have more wiggle in it than the stock clutch, so next time i get the chance to upgrade, i'm going with Maximum Motorsports.
edit: rear main seal isnt too hard, nor is it too expensive to change either. i would do it just for peace of mind.
edit2: my bad, got a headache and left out *cable* lol
nother good idea for some, is to replace the clutch quadrant hook and a firewall adjuster. go with a quality product though, not a cheap knockoff.
i have the UPR firewall adjuster and clutch quadrant, and honestly, the quadrant has a tiny bit of room in it that causes it to have more wiggle in it than the stock clutch, so next time i get the chance to upgrade, i'm going with Maximum Motorsports.
edit: rear main seal isnt too hard, nor is it too expensive to change either. i would do it just for peace of mind.
edit2: my bad, got a headache and left out *cable* lol
Last edited by zero2005; 07-12-2011 at 08:05 AM.
#5
how much money you looking to spend (budget?) and what are your ultimate goals for the car within the next 2 years?
honestly you shouldnt need the 2+ for anything you have now, and unless you get crazy with engine mods (porting/polishin heads, cams, compression ratio bump) i dont think you'll need anything more than either a stage 1, a stock clutch, or the king cobra clutch.
there's no need for such a beefy clutch unless you want a hefty leg, or are planning on Boost or Juice, with 400+ to the rear
i'd save the cash and get an OEM part if you daily drive it, if you can get it cheap enough you can then toss on the FRPP throw out bearing, rear main seal, a new OEM cable *if* you need one, and a cable quadrant/firewall adjuster (from maximum motorsports).
thats all i can give ya for now, ambiens kickin in lol.
honestly you shouldnt need the 2+ for anything you have now, and unless you get crazy with engine mods (porting/polishin heads, cams, compression ratio bump) i dont think you'll need anything more than either a stage 1, a stock clutch, or the king cobra clutch.
there's no need for such a beefy clutch unless you want a hefty leg, or are planning on Boost or Juice, with 400+ to the rear
i'd save the cash and get an OEM part if you daily drive it, if you can get it cheap enough you can then toss on the FRPP throw out bearing, rear main seal, a new OEM cable *if* you need one, and a cable quadrant/firewall adjuster (from maximum motorsports).
thats all i can give ya for now, ambiens kickin in lol.
#6
+1 on the question of your ultimate goals and budget.
It is all about a plan. If you are not honest with yourself about the purpose of the car, you will not be happy with it in the long run. Example: you could use a significantly lighter flywheel than stock. This is great for throttle response and racing as you come off curves but you will have a slightly lower launching torque due to reduced rotating mass which is enough to notice in stop and go traffic. You should only get the parts that suit your desired finished product or you will be buying them again.
Some parts, like an aluminum drive shaft have no real downside other than cost. They are lighter and stronger but you will not see any real improvement in a daily commuter - no adverse effect either though.
A higher clamping force clutch than necessary will not improve anything but the calf muscle on your left leg.
Decide what you are going to do with the car and then pick the parts accordingly. When you do though, pick good quality name brand parts for your drive train and you can discuss with them what you expect out of the parts - they will direct you to the best fit for your application and nobody knows their parts better than them.
It is all about a plan. If you are not honest with yourself about the purpose of the car, you will not be happy with it in the long run. Example: you could use a significantly lighter flywheel than stock. This is great for throttle response and racing as you come off curves but you will have a slightly lower launching torque due to reduced rotating mass which is enough to notice in stop and go traffic. You should only get the parts that suit your desired finished product or you will be buying them again.
Some parts, like an aluminum drive shaft have no real downside other than cost. They are lighter and stronger but you will not see any real improvement in a daily commuter - no adverse effect either though.
A higher clamping force clutch than necessary will not improve anything but the calf muscle on your left leg.
Decide what you are going to do with the car and then pick the parts accordingly. When you do though, pick good quality name brand parts for your drive train and you can discuss with them what you expect out of the parts - they will direct you to the best fit for your application and nobody knows their parts better than them.
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