01GTDropTop

I just recently purchased a 2003 Mach 1 (45K miles) and it has been lowered with 18x9 Cobra R rims.
Well I have been hearing a popping sound from the front wheels when i turn the wheel either way.
While installing a SLP LM1 catback, I noticed the previous owner has installed Tokico Blue shocks and Eibach Sportline springs? (pinkish/purple) Upon inspecting the ball joints, the boots appeared fine and didnt seem busted. Is there something Im missing?

I was considering ordering and installing the Steeda X2 balljoints but didnt know if that was needed.

Thoughts?

BLKSTANGER

Have you checked your rack bushings?

01GTDropTop

no, I havent. What is the significance of that? Common problem?

After doing more searches, i have found that our tie rods seem to go out and create popping sounds?

Not that inclined with suspension work, what the best way to determine the culprit?

BLKSTANGER

The best way is to get under the front of your car while someone moves the wheel back and forth. You can see if it's the rack moving. if not pull the front wheels and check the tie rod ends. Both are common problems

uberstang1

All u need to do is jack each wheel off the ground seperatly and shake it side to side then up and down, if theres a bad balljoint or tierod end u will notice the playright away.

cliffyk

Ford issued a TSB about the steering rack tube bracket being too long, resulting in the rack moving laterally as the forces reversed. It was one of the first things I fixed on my '03 GT, here's a link to the write-up I did at that time--with a link to the TSB as well.

stevednmc

@Cliffy: in photo 5 , are those rubber bushings the ones i would be replacing if i replaced the rack bushings from say steeda? These? http://www.americanmuscle.com/steering-offset.html

Are there bushings on the back side that arent shown in your pictures?

Also, with the offsets, do you know what the orientation should be?

Sorry, didnt mean to threadjack..

cliffyk

Yes the "back half" of the bushing is hidden in the photos in my article. If you car is lowered then you want to position the offset bushings in a manner that raises the steering rack (as the rack was moved lower relative to the steering arms by lowering the car).

The best the bushings can do is maybe 3/8".

If you want to lower one of our cars 2" or more using drop spindles is the proper way as it keeps full strut travel, and proper steering geometry--and the overall cost is only a bit higher (if at all higher) by the time you add up springs, CC plates, extended tie-rod ends, offset bushings, etc.

stevednmc

I see. I dont intend to go more than about 1.6". At least thats what the kit says its gonna do. Not one to "slam" a car down. I may just wait on all the extra stuff except the ccplates.



@Op, what have you found?

cliffyk

At 1.6" you will need the CC plates, however not likely any bumpsteer related stuff (offset bushings, extended tie-rod ends, etc.)

Mine is dropped a bit more than that on the front-end (1-3/4") and I have no bumpsteer issues of any sort. Even when taking the far less than smooth exit off I-95N and on to Jacksonville's Main Street bridge at speeds quite a bit higher than the posted 55--in fact high enough that I do not care to commit them to a forum posting...