Hey MF I am in need of some help. This last weekend, my brother and I installed the Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber plates on to my car. He had already installed his set on to his Bullitt so the process wasn't that difficult. Furthermore, we installed everything correctly. Yesterday I went to get the car aligned but they were not able to give me a camber past -1. I am running Ford C springs with 1/2 coil cut off. My brother's car is lower than mine and he was able to achieve -.6 camber. I am trying for -.75 camber. Does anyone know why my camber is maxed out? They shop said the camber was maxed out at -1 and there was nothing they could do to change it except install some additional camber things (I don't remember exactly what they said) which would cost around $100 + installation. What can we do to get to the -.75 camber that I want?

Cliff notes:
installed MM CC plates
camber is maxed out at -1
how do i get to -.75 camber

Thanks!

 

Forgive me because I know this is not the answer you're looking for, but I want to answer your question with a question. Why do you want -.75° camber? These cars like a little extra negative camber. My car is sitting at almost -2°. I know there's the whole tire wear issue... but to me, performance trumps (minor) tire wear. -1° wouldn't bother me at all.

 

Okay, I know I'm really being a tech geek here, but what can I say... I'm really into my job. I was thinking about the fact that UPR's shark plates have more adjustability than the MM plates, because ours utilize the factory 3-bolt configuration. This is because the factory holes are slotted, so you have the camber adjustment in our cc-plates AND the adjustment from sliding the plate itself in the factory holes.

Since the MM plate is a 4-bolt design (we have a 4-bolt plate as well), you lose some camber adjustment since you can't slide the MM plate in the strut tower. I just checked with a good friend of mine who has 4-bolt plates on his car and he told me he just slotted the fourth hole and he got the extra adjustment back.

If you PM me your email address, I can email you a photo of the strut tower on his car.

Just trying to help.

-Sharad

 

The MM CC Plates have PLENTY of adjustable range!!!
I think the issue arises from any bias you establish in where you drill the plate mounting holes in the strut tower. I biased mine a little towards the inside of the tower and my minimum camber setting is around -1.0 degrees, but can get a little over -3.4 degrees when adjusted for autox usage. I run approximately -2.0 degrees for my DD setting.

I would NOT buy 3 bolt CC Plates, but that is just me.

I can't imagine installing new suspension components and setting the camber at less than -1.0 degrees. You are losing a lot of cornering grip by running the tires nearly straight up. If you do this, at least adjust in the maximum amount of caster to help get more camber when you turn the wheels.