VTX1800N1

Unfortunately for my son, I got called into work again today. Hopefully tomorrow we'll get to it.

Hangwire

I'm just poking fun at you more than anything lol. Hence the smiley.

Its a nice way to express that mayyyybe you dont know quite as much as you thought in this situation

Honestly I've never even done any internal engine work on these motors - not personally at least. I understand exactly whats going on and thats about it. Regardless I have spent a bit of time both working on a researching these cars - certainly enough to troubleshoot symptoms.

You could very well have valvetrain issues. It just makes a lot of sense to eliminate an extremely common issue that causes symptoms that you are describing before digging into the cylinder heads. Thats no small task for anyone and certainly not worth doing if its not necessary no matter who you are.

Good thing is its an easy step to take to eliminate this as a possible issue. And its never a bad idea to throw a fresh set of COPS/Spark Plugs on a 10+ year old car that you have little service history on.

Keep us posted.

VTX1800N1

I started it and ran it up on ramps so I could get under the engine to attach an oil pressure gauge. Opened the hood and noticed #6 injector leaking from the top. No more running the engine until I get a new set of O rings. Found these and will pick them up tomorrow: http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sho...lVehicle=false

VTX1800N1

I'll see if I can get a video of it running and post it to YouTube and link it here.

VTX1800N1

I ordered a set of Motorcraft quick struts (private label package) at closeout from Rock Auto for $40 each. Together with MOOG lower control arms he will have a new front suspension for ~$278. Will add some sway bar bushings and end links also, but those are cheap.

I told him that in addition to all the time I'll be spending working on the car with him, I'll buy him this kit to improve the rear suspension: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...ntrol-Arm-Kit#

VTX1800N1

That should be "private label". Forum still won't let me edit my posts. Phone spell checker fail.

VTX1800N1

Likewise, the forum should have a little more patience before telling new members that they don't know what they're doing. I have a high mechanical aptitude. I learned all I could about the 4x4 system in my truck and then wrote the following tech article which has helped many troubleshoot and fix their 4x4 system. http://www.f150forum.com/f72/how-dia...72/?styleid=14

Similarly, I know my way around engines. Hope to get some testing done on the Mustang on Friday.

Hangwire

While you're at it inspect the steering rack bushings! It is extremely common on these cars for those to wear/shrink over time....allowing the steering rack to shift left and right as you steer. This causes alignment issues as well as grinding/popping noises when it gets bad enough. Might as well inspect tie rod ball joints/control arm ball joints while you're at it too as well as the little green bushings that support them at their connections.

VTX1800N1

Thanks for the tip. He's getting all new Moog lower control arms, so that takes care of part of that list. Will have a closer look at the steering rack.

VTX1800N1

Oil PSI cold: 60 @ cold enrichment fast idle

Oil PSI hot: 16 @ ~ 500 RPM

I'm not liking that hot PSI. I'd like to see 25 or more but without knowing the viscosity of the oil that's in there.....

He's taking all the plugs out now so that we can do a compression test. I listened to the oil pan with my stethoscope and the knocking is loud. I'm hoping it's not a spun bearing and instead is just the noise from whatever is wrong with the valve train traveling down the oil return.