VTX1800N1

Compression test first run:

1: 160
2: 190
3: 110
4 : 90
5: 180
6: 190
7: 170
8: 90 with a slow build to 110

Plugs for 3&4 are oil coated. Plug for 8 has heavy carbon deposits.

I was only getting sporadic hits on the compression tester on 3&4, which to me would be consistent with collapsed lifters, especially the intake side, causing little to no cylinder fill.

Dropping some oil in the problem cylinders now to see what they do.

VTX1800N1

Compression test with oil in the cylinder:

Looks like 3&4 have a valve train problem and the rings are gone on 8.

3: 75 PSI built fast but still sporadic hits
4: 60 PSI sporadic hits
8: 250 PSI fast build pressure

Looks like it's a whole new engine for him. Have to decide if we want to buy a master kit and do the work ourselves, buy rebuilt cylinder heads and try to find a short block kit and do it ourselves, or just buy a whole reman engine.

JC316

Yeah, I would say that the engine is just about shot. I would just go with a junkyard engine out of an 01+ towncar. They are usually low miles and have good maintenance done on them. Just swap the intake/exhaust/motor mounts off from the mustang and you're good to go.

Edit:

Oh and if you've never pulled the engine on one of these cars, check out my video of the removal. Might save you a little bit of headache.

VTX1800N1

Much appreciated!

VTX1800N1

Here is the plan so far:

BLOCK:

Boring $275, if only needs hone $60

Hot tank block $70

Decking $110

Line Bore $250, if only needs Hone $150

Clean & Polish crank $60

Balanced rotating assembly $200




HEADS/CAMS/VALVETRAIN:

www.latemodelrestoration.com

Ford Racing LH complete head assembly: $465

Ford Racing RH complete head assembly: $465



ROTATING ASSEMBLY:

www.modmaxracing.com

Forged Manley pistons, .020 over

DELETED <ModMax Forged 5140 I-Beam Connecting Rods>

ADDED - ModMax 4340 Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods w/ ARP2000 bolts

piston pins

ModMax Plasma Moly File Fit Rings

King Rod and Main Bearings

Crankshaft delete (from kit, will reuse stock crank)

$1150


He will of course need a complete set of gaskets and head/exhaust bolts. This will increase the compression ratio to 10.53:1 according to ModMax. That should give him a bump in power, but might also require mid-grade fuel.

He'll be able to sell or recycle the old heads to mitigate a little of the cost.

Still looking for a gasket and cam timing set. I would prefer to stay with genuine Ford parts for the timing and will use Ford or Felpro for the gaskets. Any suggestions?

VTX1800N1

Just found a Ford timing set on sale at MMR for $186.89 shipped. Ordered.

Still looking for a complete gasket set.

With Memorial Day coming up, I'm hoping for some online sales.

VTX1800N1

So far this is the best deal I can find on a quality (Fel-Pro) gasket set. It looks mostly complete, $278.50: http://www.modmaxracing.com/01_04_Mu...s9790pt-16.htm

VTX1800N1

Another piece of the puzzle found: http://www.butler-macmaster.com/m-60....html?___SID=U

They have the heads cheaper too ($420 each, complete), as well as free shipping like latemodelrestoration.

http://www.butler-macmaster.com/m-6049-p46.html

http://www.butler-macmaster.com/m-6050-p46.html

Hangwire

Looks good for a stock rebuild man.

Good job of using the vendors to find the parts/prices you needed. Post up pictures of the rebuild process as you go through it.

It will likely need a custom tune with those pistons. With it being an uncommon CR N/A build I wouldn't trust a pre-packaged tune. I would get it on a dyno and get a custom tune to really pinpoint the A/F-R and octane needed. It will likely need at least a 91 octane tune.

Good thing is this motor can take some pretty decent boost and/or nitrous down the road if desired.

VTX1800N1

Thanks.

I'll make a new thread that will detail the engine removal, tear down, rebuild, and installation. Got to remember to take pics along the way.

I was thinking about tunes. We might contact SCT to see what they can offer for this combo until he can afford to get it done on a dyno. As I understand things, Ford switched from 19 to 21 lb injectors not too many years before his 2002, but didn't significantly change the fuel curve programming. This caused cars with the 21 lb (pink) injectors to run rich. That should help with the higher CR, so the tune might not be that far off anyway. I'll definitely be recommending only 91 octane or above with that compression ratio.

I found the cylinder heads for almost $100 cheaper as detailed above. We will stick that into the rods and upgrade them to the ModMax 4340 forged H-beam units w/ ARP 2000 hardware.

I wish he had saved up more money, but being a teenager he blew through a lot of what he had earned needlessly. I saw a few offerings of Twisted Wedge heads, complete assemblies with hi performance cams, for $3600 - $3900. That's more than he paid for the car. With a set of long tubes it would have really made the engine come alive. I could see 400+ HP for that combo. Ah well, what he's getting will still be significantly better than stock.