I need help modding my 03 GT
If you do full bolt-ons and go with 10PSI intercooled, you can definitely get over the 400RWHP mark. I'm not familiar with SRT's and what the different stage turbo's make for HP, so I can't help there.
SRT4's aren't as fast as people make them out to be. They aren't running 12's or 13's at a stage two kit. If they are then they are sparying the crap out of that engine. It won't take much to get you to beat one down the quarter. Around here the Stage2s are running low 14's.
Now - there's nothing wrong with nitrous! You can make more power cheaper with nitrous. Granted, you don't have the sounds of a blower, and you've gotta keep your bottle filled, but outside of that, nitrous is a safe way to go too. If you've got enough to get a ProCharger kit, you have enough to build your bottom end and buy a nitrous kit and run a 150+ shot and come out on top for power. Granted, this way you will have more labor involved in the total installation... but you'll have more potential for power. I'm not a total nitrous advocate, I'd rather have a blower myself, but if you're on a budget, nitrous is definitely the way to go.
Either way, with the stock bottom end, you are only looking at 380-400 RWHP at the very most because as far as I know your connecting rods are only rated to 450 HP. A ProCharger at 10psi puts you right up at that mark.
Either way, with the stock bottom end, you are only looking at 380-400 RWHP at the very most because as far as I know your connecting rods are only rated to 450 HP. A ProCharger at 10psi puts you right up at that mark.
Thanks guys, all this really helps me out, now I´m having a hard decision about going for the procharger or a Kenne Bell, I have reading about those two a lot, what called my attention about the Kenne Bell is that it comes with everything you need already, I was thinking really seriously about going to California (since the company is in Rancho Cucamonga), install it there and test it, there are no Dyno´s around here so is hard to test or determinate wich things work good for my car or to see how much HP and Torque my GT is doing, any opinions? should I make the trip and get the Kenne Bell?
Ok, I need some help here, my updated mod list is the next one :
AEM Bruteforce Intake
-AIRAID POWERAID Throttle Body Spacer
-HYPERTECH Power Programmer III
-BBK Headers
-Magnaflow Magnapacks
-12,000K HID´s Kit
-BFgoodrich G-Force KDW tires
-Brake pads
I would like to know what should I do next, I was thinking about Steeda UDP´s and gears, but again, I was reading some of the threads around here and everybody has a different option or opinion, my GT is a 03 AT and my main goal is power, I use it for daily driving but I also race with it, any suggestions guys!?
Thanks!! have a nice day! ^^
AEM Bruteforce Intake
-AIRAID POWERAID Throttle Body Spacer
-HYPERTECH Power Programmer III
-BBK Headers
-Magnaflow Magnapacks
-12,000K HID´s Kit
-BFgoodrich G-Force KDW tires
-Brake pads
I would like to know what should I do next, I was thinking about Steeda UDP´s and gears, but again, I was reading some of the threads around here and everybody has a different option or opinion, my GT is a 03 AT and my main goal is power, I use it for daily driving but I also race with it, any suggestions guys!?
Thanks!! have a nice day! ^^
Well first off I honestly wouldn't start off with a supercharger!! People always build their cars backwards to me, it makes way more sense to me to build the suspension and drivetrain first. You will still pick up performance this way too. I see so many people have a stock car and go out and by a super charger or build a strong n/a motor and don't have the suspension or drivetrain to hold the power and they end up spending twice as much money on the car. You can have all the horsepower in the world, but if you can't get it to the ground its worthless.
if it were my car I would start with suspension first.
I would get some upper and lower control arms, a set of drag springs, 50/50 shocks(or adj. rear shocks), adj. struts and get some drag radials. This buy itself will allow the car to weight transfer better and have better traction. I would recommend steeda parts....I have used lots of aftermarket suspension and steeda has been the best. get some adj. upper control arms and weight jacker lower control arms.
then i would go to the drivetrain. a set of 4.10's especially with an auto, eaton posi, 33 spline axles, c-clip elim. readend girdle, alum. driveshaft, and if you are wanting to increase hp especially with a super or turbocharger you will need a bigger stall conv. (Percision Industries, has really great converters) and get a shift kit and bigger transmission pan.
Can you adjust a bunch of stuff with that hypertech programmer, is it kind of like the diablo tuner? if not I would buy a diablo, can adjust for tire and gear changes, timing, fuel, etc.
I would also get rid of that AEM intake and get a anderson ford motorsport, power pipe.
and instead of spending 6000 on a supercharger that you can only run 10psi with and getting 300+ rwhp.. I would spend $1500 on a set of stage 2.5 or stage 3 heads from Modular Power House, or stage 3 foxlake heads. that new professional products 4.6L typhoon intake ($600) and intake elbow, a 75mm throttle body, 90mm lightning maf, and vt stage 1 cams. with full exhaust and pullies, and timing adjuster, you could easily lay down 300rwhp and you won't be stressing your engine at all compared to putting boost on it and you will only spend probably half the money so you can afford the suspension and drivetrain.
then later on you can replace your shortblock for a 302-324ci built mod and put the turbo or s/c on and actually be able to run a decent amount of boost thats worth while, and make 500-600 rwhp, spending 6 grand to run 10 psi and maybe pick up 80-90 rwhp is not worth it to me,
Just my .02cents. I would say you could run mid to low 12's with all that suspension and drivetrain and heads, intake, etc I explained.
would be a lot more impressive to run those numbers N/A!!!
if it were my car I would start with suspension first.
I would get some upper and lower control arms, a set of drag springs, 50/50 shocks(or adj. rear shocks), adj. struts and get some drag radials. This buy itself will allow the car to weight transfer better and have better traction. I would recommend steeda parts....I have used lots of aftermarket suspension and steeda has been the best. get some adj. upper control arms and weight jacker lower control arms.
then i would go to the drivetrain. a set of 4.10's especially with an auto, eaton posi, 33 spline axles, c-clip elim. readend girdle, alum. driveshaft, and if you are wanting to increase hp especially with a super or turbocharger you will need a bigger stall conv. (Percision Industries, has really great converters) and get a shift kit and bigger transmission pan.
Can you adjust a bunch of stuff with that hypertech programmer, is it kind of like the diablo tuner? if not I would buy a diablo, can adjust for tire and gear changes, timing, fuel, etc.
I would also get rid of that AEM intake and get a anderson ford motorsport, power pipe.
and instead of spending 6000 on a supercharger that you can only run 10psi with and getting 300+ rwhp.. I would spend $1500 on a set of stage 2.5 or stage 3 heads from Modular Power House, or stage 3 foxlake heads. that new professional products 4.6L typhoon intake ($600) and intake elbow, a 75mm throttle body, 90mm lightning maf, and vt stage 1 cams. with full exhaust and pullies, and timing adjuster, you could easily lay down 300rwhp and you won't be stressing your engine at all compared to putting boost on it and you will only spend probably half the money so you can afford the suspension and drivetrain.
then later on you can replace your shortblock for a 302-324ci built mod and put the turbo or s/c on and actually be able to run a decent amount of boost thats worth while, and make 500-600 rwhp, spending 6 grand to run 10 psi and maybe pick up 80-90 rwhp is not worth it to me,
Just my .02cents. I would say you could run mid to low 12's with all that suspension and drivetrain and heads, intake, etc I explained.
would be a lot more impressive to run those numbers N/A!!!
I have those mods in my car already dvs_03gt
Thanks Fordracing, where I can buy all this things? (except for the suspension, I can get it here for sure, I was thinking about Eibach pro system), I think I will my GT N/A, I think is impressive seeing a N/A doing high HP, and if I want install a SC or TC I think my car will be ready for it, thanks!!!
PS. does someone has a video of a GT AT with 4.10´s!? I really would like to see how it runs, what gears the 05-06 GT have!?
Thanks Fordracing, where I can buy all this things? (except for the suspension, I can get it here for sure, I was thinking about Eibach pro system), I think I will my GT N/A, I think is impressive seeing a N/A doing high HP, and if I want install a SC or TC I think my car will be ready for it, thanks!!!
PS. does someone has a video of a GT AT with 4.10´s!? I really would like to see how it runs, what gears the 05-06 GT have!?
if your staying N/A definetly go with 4.10's if not 4.30's if your goin with a power adder you might not want to go over 3.73.....but check out code3gt's 04 mustang gt he is makin 342 rwhp on a N/A motor....
ORIGINAL: mself52
if your staying N/A definetly go with 4.10's if not 4.30's if your goin with a power adder you might not want to go over 3.73.....but check out code3gt's 04 mustang gt he is makin 342 rwhp on a N/A motor....
if your staying N/A definetly go with 4.10's if not 4.30's if your goin with a power adder you might not want to go over 3.73.....but check out code3gt's 04 mustang gt he is makin 342 rwhp on a N/A motor....


