auto gt's please help
ORIGINAL: 01Steed
Granted, butan argument that a Mustang is even a sports car can be made. But, it is the closest thing Ford has to oneat an affordable price. All in all, your point is valid. It's all in how you look at it.
When I bought mine (August '01), there were zero manuals to be had in the tri-state area. That year, Dearborn ran out of manuals in May, partially due to the Bullitt demand and the supplier not being able to keep up. My car was built June 7, 2001, so I didn't even have a choice. I had to buy one off a lot because my previous car was totalled (hit a deer). I wanted a stick, but bought the auto.
Now that I have it, I'm happy with it. Especially with all the issues I've read about with the sticks.
Granted, butan argument that a Mustang is even a sports car can be made. But, it is the closest thing Ford has to oneat an affordable price. All in all, your point is valid. It's all in how you look at it.
When I bought mine (August '01), there were zero manuals to be had in the tri-state area. That year, Dearborn ran out of manuals in May, partially due to the Bullitt demand and the supplier not being able to keep up. My car was built June 7, 2001, so I didn't even have a choice. I had to buy one off a lot because my previous car was totalled (hit a deer). I wanted a stick, but bought the auto.
Now that I have it, I'm happy with it. Especially with all the issues I've read about with the sticks.
ORIGINAL: ThisIsMyStang
In your last quote you were bragging you did 14.38 stock all the way to the air filter. Now you can argue that a stang is not a sports car? Why wouldn't it be? And what issues do sticks have that an automatic wouldn't? Every car can have an issue! You said yourself that you wanted a stick but settled for an auto cause you couldn't get one and now sticks suck and have issues.Pshhhh! Hypocrit
ORIGINAL: 01Steed
Granted, butan argument that a Mustang is even a sports car can be made. But, it is the closest thing Ford has to oneat an affordable price. All in all, your point is valid. It's all in how you look at it.
When I bought mine (August '01), there were zero manuals to be had in the tri-state area. That year, Dearborn ran out of manuals in May, partially due to the Bullitt demand and the supplier not being able to keep up. My car was built June 7, 2001, so I didn't even have a choice. I had to buy one off a lot because my previous car was totalled (hit a deer). I wanted a stick, but bought the auto.
Now that I have it, I'm happy with it. Especially with all the issues I've read about with the sticks.
Granted, butan argument that a Mustang is even a sports car can be made. But, it is the closest thing Ford has to oneat an affordable price. All in all, your point is valid. It's all in how you look at it.
When I bought mine (August '01), there were zero manuals to be had in the tri-state area. That year, Dearborn ran out of manuals in May, partially due to the Bullitt demand and the supplier not being able to keep up. My car was built June 7, 2001, so I didn't even have a choice. I had to buy one off a lot because my previous car was totalled (hit a deer). I wanted a stick, but bought the auto.
Now that I have it, I'm happy with it. Especially with all the issues I've read about with the sticks.
What's your problem? I never bragged about a 14.4, I merely offered what the car runs in stock trim.
Also, don't put words into my mouth! I never said sticks suck You did! Also, I didn't make the argument. I said "the argument can be made". If you read more than just 5.0 magazine, you'd be able to see where that comment was coming from.
As far as issues with manuals are concerned, all you need to do is read up on the various forums. You'll soon realize that there are numerous issues with syncro's, broken input shafts, clutch wear, etc..
Obviously, autos don't have these issues, and to my knowledge there aren't many issues with the auto that are as common as the issues I've stated for sticks.
Don't come pissing on my porch, pal! You don't have any tech to offer, so you've decided to try and twist what I've said and misconstrue my advice.
Take a pill!
Also, don't put words into my mouth! I never said sticks suck You did! Also, I didn't make the argument. I said "the argument can be made". If you read more than just 5.0 magazine, you'd be able to see where that comment was coming from.
As far as issues with manuals are concerned, all you need to do is read up on the various forums. You'll soon realize that there are numerous issues with syncro's, broken input shafts, clutch wear, etc..
Obviously, autos don't have these issues, and to my knowledge there aren't many issues with the auto that are as common as the issues I've stated for sticks.
Don't come pissing on my porch, pal! You don't have any tech to offer, so you've decided to try and twist what I've said and misconstrue my advice.
Take a pill!
What's so hard about changing trans fluid??? And can you name me one common issue in autos that even comes close to the imfamous bent/broken 1-2 shift fork??
Here we go, boyz and girlz. This the point in the conversation where all the stick guys come out of the woodwork and slam your auto.
Here we go, boyz and girlz. This the point in the conversation where all the stick guys come out of the woodwork and slam your auto.
ORIGINAL: 01Steed
What's so hard about changing trans fluid??? And can you name me one common issue in autos that even comes close to the imfamous bent/broken 1-2 shift fork??
Here we go, boyz and girlz. This the point in the conversation where all the stick guys come out of the woodwork and slam your auto.
What's so hard about changing trans fluid??? And can you name me one common issue in autos that even comes close to the imfamous bent/broken 1-2 shift fork??
Here we go, boyz and girlz. This the point in the conversation where all the stick guys come out of the woodwork and slam your auto.
ORIGINAL: 01Steed
You have a 4R70W transmission, with an electronic lock-up converter. Stock stall is approx. 1800.
The PA valve body isa good one. You can get them in manual shift or auto. I wouldn't recommend the manual shift unless it's a strip car, or Sunday driver or less. Some people are perfectly comfortable with them, but some might find it more of a hassle.
Quicker shifts are what you're after, not firmer ones. A decent v/b or j-modded stock v/b can cut .2 off your 1/4, maybe more.
A high stall converter requires no input from the driver other than applying the gas pedal. Your tune takes care of when it locks and unlocks (find a good tuner who knows what he's doing with autos).
A higher stall allows the engine to build more rpm before you leave the line when you "flash" the converter (stomp the gas from a dead idle). This is almost a necessary mod for our modular V8's, as they love the rpms compared to the old-school pushrod engines (I'm talking stock here, not strip built big blocks, so don't cap on me for that one). It will also slip a bit more at lower rpm in first and second gears. This is where the heat becomes an issue, so you should install a trans fluid cooler. I would bypass the radiator all together.
The right converter can cut as much as a .4-.5 seconds off your 1/4 ET's.
A trans-brake is something you'll only use a the strip. You don't need one unless you're really into that. However, if you're going to order a valve body anyhow, you might as well get one with a brake already in it. Look into that when and if you call PA. Ask them what they offer and make a decision based on what your plans are.
You have a 4R70W transmission, with an electronic lock-up converter. Stock stall is approx. 1800.
The PA valve body isa good one. You can get them in manual shift or auto. I wouldn't recommend the manual shift unless it's a strip car, or Sunday driver or less. Some people are perfectly comfortable with them, but some might find it more of a hassle.
Quicker shifts are what you're after, not firmer ones. A decent v/b or j-modded stock v/b can cut .2 off your 1/4, maybe more.
A high stall converter requires no input from the driver other than applying the gas pedal. Your tune takes care of when it locks and unlocks (find a good tuner who knows what he's doing with autos).
A higher stall allows the engine to build more rpm before you leave the line when you "flash" the converter (stomp the gas from a dead idle). This is almost a necessary mod for our modular V8's, as they love the rpms compared to the old-school pushrod engines (I'm talking stock here, not strip built big blocks, so don't cap on me for that one). It will also slip a bit more at lower rpm in first and second gears. This is where the heat becomes an issue, so you should install a trans fluid cooler. I would bypass the radiator all together.
The right converter can cut as much as a .4-.5 seconds off your 1/4 ET's.
A trans-brake is something you'll only use a the strip. You don't need one unless you're really into that. However, if you're going to order a valve body anyhow, you might as well get one with a brake already in it. Look into that when and if you call PA. Ask them what they offer and make a decision based on what your plans are.
So that is why when I hold the brake and accelerate before taking off, the car gets hard to hold around the 2k rpm range. I think i am going to have to add the PA valve body to the To-Do list[8D]
Again, I believe you've taken thingsout of context. That was a statement made in response to another poster saying that he get's slammed for having a stick. Where does it say that a person can't feel the opposite way about this matter?
Every post, eh?
I believe this is a thread started for auto owners. How 'bout you either stop reading it, or grow some skin. You're not going to change people's minds about their cars by being an unconscionable *****. Until you took offense, no one had any issues with what was being discussed.
Still waiting for the tech. [>:]
Every post, eh?
I believe this is a thread started for auto owners. How 'bout you either stop reading it, or grow some skin. You're not going to change people's minds about their cars by being an unconscionable *****. Until you took offense, no one had any issues with what was being discussed.
Still waiting for the tech. [>:]
ORIGINAL: Jaybird79
If anything, automatics have MORE problems than manuals. Because of the torque converter there is another channel the power has to go through to reach the driveshaft. This means more heat and more chance of failure. Manuals are generally more reliable than automatics. Also fluid change isn't as big of an issue with a manual.
If anything, automatics have MORE problems than manuals. Because of the torque converter there is another channel the power has to go through to reach the driveshaft. This means more heat and more chance of failure. Manuals are generally more reliable than automatics. Also fluid change isn't as big of an issue with a manual.
ORIGINAL: 01Steed
Again, I believe you've taken thingsout of context. That was a statement made in response to another poster saying that he get's slammed for having a stick. Where does it say that a person can't feel the opposite way about this matter?
Every post, eh?
I believe this is a thread started for auto owners. How 'bout you either stop reading it, or grow some skin. You're not going to change people's minds about their cars by being an unconscionable *****. Until you took offense, no one had any issues with what was being discussed.
Still waiting for the tech. [>:]
Again, I believe you've taken thingsout of context. That was a statement made in response to another poster saying that he get's slammed for having a stick. Where does it say that a person can't feel the opposite way about this matter?
Every post, eh?
I believe this is a thread started for auto owners. How 'bout you either stop reading it, or grow some skin. You're not going to change people's minds about their cars by being an unconscionable *****. Until you took offense, no one had any issues with what was being discussed.
Still waiting for the tech. [>:]


