Sure, I could stick a 572 big block if I really wanted to.

 

I suggest you buy a cobra texad block ( 96-98) cobras if you dont wana drop all that money in the DSS or the MMR block. It ll be cheaper at the end. Friend of mine is runing DSS block on his Vortech T Trim blower and it works fine. No problems with it. Hes pushing almost 600 to the wheels.

 

I'm just trying to maximize the stock 4.6L but at what point will I max it out ????
I'm not looking to go down the track every weekend, I just want enough power to beat a honda civic..LOL

 

I bought a MMR 900 long block. I wouldn't do it again, crappy service. They took the money and ran. Fox Lake IMO.

 

Get the Internals and build the block yourself. Mine was done that way by the previous owner, and i've been running close to 600rwhp for about a year now, almost exactly a year now, with close to 14,000miles having been put on it, 9-10,000 of those miles were on a road course racing. great driveability, and great gas mileage.

Why go with a teksid block when yours will do fine? Even if you do buy a block, go with a cast Iron, cheaper and stronger.

 

If you are gonna buy a new block to build so you can just swap the whole thing in one day, I would just buy a Teksid cobra block. They can handle a ton of horsepower (900+) and are way lighter than the '03-04 Cobra blocks.

 

Thats funny because this is what they told me over @ MMR forums.I'd most likely buy a livernois motorsport block over any other builder. Anyone can build an engine and market it. Seems to me like livernois is more reputable.
If i could get more replies like the one from 2000AZ5.0GT to convince me that I don't need to spend the extra thousands on a marketed block to support 600 to 700 rwhp then I'll just build my own. I've built 2 SBC's before so this will be my greatest challange yet if I do wind up building it.
Where are all you " Yo Ken " guru's.

 

well, hows this. The engine in my car was built by a local engine builder using carefully selected, mixed and matched parts more or less. Kellog stroker crankshaft, manly rods/pistons, comp cams custom cams.

Currently, my engine has 52,000 miles on it since it was built, in fact I think it just turned 52,000 today. It still gets 28mpg on the highway, and 17-18 in town, and still makes just as much power today as the day it was dyno'd at 1,000miles.

Nanaki, one of the moderator's on this forum, was driving his car, during the rain I believe, when he spun a rod bearing. MMR then replaced the shortblock since it was still in warranty I believe, and another member on the forums, Scubasteeve, bought it from him, and blew the engine, running less than 600rwhp. That's an engine from MMR. I think another member on the forums also had a problem with their MMR shortblock.

Oxford on the other hand had his engine built using parts he selected by an engine builder that is local to him. He'll have to let you know what kind of reliability he has, but I'm pretty sure it will show great results. I think that you're probably going to have better results either Building the Engine yourself or having someone local do it for you.

Lets face it, parts alone aren't going to be what fails, especially being forged, it's going to be something that the assembler does wrong that makes the engine fail. Manly, JE, Diamond, all of these are great companies that produce great parts, and I'm sure their parts aren't going to be the causing factor of an engine failure.

If you can assemble the engine yourself, which I'm sure you can, you can check all clearances yourself, and KNOW FOR A FACT that it's built right, or take a chance on someone elses work.

 

THANKS, A friend of mine Sam, he owns a 96 cobra procharged. He has had his block and heads in the shop 2x now to get work done. I'll talk to him and see how much they charged him for the work. If its within a reasonable price I might just go that route. I noticed too that his 96 cobra had an aluminum block that he said was factory.. Is that right. And what about my car, mine is aluminum right..

 

You have a iron block. The stock block will handle well over 1000 hp so there is no need to change the block. I built my own motor using manley rods and diamond pistons for the internals. I run 505 rwhp and 500 rwtq for a couple of years before I sold the car and it's still running strong. I didn't go with a forged crank because I knew I wasn't going with more than 550 rwhp. THR has built twin turbo gt's that made over 700 rwhp on the stock nodular crank and has never seen a stock crank break due to over powering it. Do what you want but I suggest you do what is said above and buy good parts and put them in yourself. I only had 1100 dollars in the bottom end of my motor.