Hi all
#11
heres a better question... why did our friends S197 driving mod decide to move a thread about a 98gt (regardless of engine size mistyping) into the 5.0 section
And to the OP. you need to jump power to the fuel pump connector off the inertia switch in the trunk. I had a similar issue with a friends 99 gt, it ended up being the feul pump control module (not a relay) in the trunk
And to the OP. you need to jump power to the fuel pump connector off the inertia switch in the trunk. I had a similar issue with a friends 99 gt, it ended up being the feul pump control module (not a relay) in the trunk
#12
Thank you every one. I was just a little buzzed when I wrote up the OP and was a little dumb as well becuase you guys are right... I posted as a 4.8L when it is in fact a 4.6L 2x4 bang'r . Sorry for the miss info...
Aside from the fact that I never had any problems w/starting the car while using a jumper box in the past I also used a deep cycle Marine battery w/jumper cables from my bass boat. So I don't think this is a battery/power related issue...
I will have to find a way to test the pump w/a power supply connected to the circuit as suggested. Do I have to remove the gas tank if the pump proves to be malfunctioning or is there a access hole in the trunk?
Thank you again for all your help,
N2G
Aside from the fact that I never had any problems w/starting the car while using a jumper box in the past I also used a deep cycle Marine battery w/jumper cables from my bass boat. So I don't think this is a battery/power related issue...
I will have to find a way to test the pump w/a power supply connected to the circuit as suggested. Do I have to remove the gas tank if the pump proves to be malfunctioning or is there a access hole in the trunk?
Thank you again for all your help,
N2G
Last edited by N2Gaming; 03-29-2009 at 02:01 PM.
#14
wrong as usual...
OP, find the fuel pump inertia switch in the trunk and unplug it. run a 12v test lead from your battery straight back there and effectively bypass all of the other circuitry.
when diagnosing a fuel supply problem, its best to work from the pump forward.
so, start by jumping the pump and seeing if it turns on.
OP, find the fuel pump inertia switch in the trunk and unplug it. run a 12v test lead from your battery straight back there and effectively bypass all of the other circuitry.
when diagnosing a fuel supply problem, its best to work from the pump forward.
so, start by jumping the pump and seeing if it turns on.
#15
OP, find the fuel pump inertia switch in the trunk and unplug it. run a 12v test lead from your battery straight back there and effectively bypass all of the other circuitry.
when diagnosing a fuel supply problem, its best to work from the pump forward.
so, start by jumping the pump and seeing if it turns on.
when diagnosing a fuel supply problem, its best to work from the pump forward.
so, start by jumping the pump and seeing if it turns on.
does the polarity matter? Well I guess I better take a look at it before I get ahead of my self and ask questions about this. I will go look at it now and get a color code for the wires and see if I can figure + & - before testing pump.
N2G
Last edited by N2Gaming; 03-29-2009 at 04:30 PM.
#16
heres a better question... why did our friends S197 driving mod decide to move a thread about a 98gt (regardless of engine size mistyping) into the 5.0 section
And to the OP. you need to jump power to the fuel pump connector off the inertia switch in the trunk. I had a similar issue with a friends 99 gt, it ended up being the feul pump control module (not a relay) in the trunk
And to the OP. you need to jump power to the fuel pump connector off the inertia switch in the trunk. I had a similar issue with a friends 99 gt, it ended up being the feul pump control module (not a relay) in the trunk
I did not care what the motor was and thought I moved it to the right section based off the yr of the car.....apparently I have not and its been pointed out......carry on
#17
Ok guys so far this is what I have done I included pictures just to make sure I am in the right place for testing... I tested the plug to the inertia switch w/a buzzing ohm metor with the key on and off. W/the key off no buzz or continuity. When I turn the key on I get a buzz or continuity... I did not test the voltage yet because I don't know if it is safe. plus I don't know what wire to plug the volt meter into while grounding the volt meter to the chassis...
Thank you,
N2G
Thank you,
N2G
#18
Well it's the third day and I finally found a diagram that gives me more specific details about all the inertia switch/fuel pump wiring and can say that I feel confident in testing the circuit now. I have included a picture of the wiring diagram if others care to link to it in the future. Instead of just say do this w/no verifyable back ups or wire coloring display for a reference when stating to apply the voltage to the wiring to the inertia switch...
Thanks for all you help
N2G
Thanks for all you help
N2G
#19
wrong as usual...
OP, find the fuel pump inertia switch in the trunk and unplug it. run a 12v test lead from your battery straight back there and effectively bypass all of the other circuitry.
when diagnosing a fuel supply problem, its best to work from the pump forward.
so, start by jumping the pump and seeing if it turns on.
OP, find the fuel pump inertia switch in the trunk and unplug it. run a 12v test lead from your battery straight back there and effectively bypass all of the other circuitry.
when diagnosing a fuel supply problem, its best to work from the pump forward.
so, start by jumping the pump and seeing if it turns on.