A 3.4l whipple on a 2v possibility???
#21
The 3.4L is kind of a waste on a 2V, your going to multiply your displacement up to 3 times, so It'd be more like running a 12L engine
Too much Torque IMHO
I was looking at it, but it's soo hard to keep a positive displacement blown engine bay cool.
keep in mind, KB guys are seeing AVERAGE secondary IAT temps of 180*.
You can only run an air/water IC. So basically, it'll be good on a track, when you can run full ICY water. On the street, it's going to HEAT IT UP. Even with Meth injection, your going to be getting so much heat soak you'll wish you went another route.
YES, it will produce a SH*TTON of power. Your talking easily about 700+rwhp on ~20PSI
The blower alone is a good $5,000. your talking about an $8000 build just engine/fuel alone.
IF this is what you want, go for it, totally go for it. But I won't be doing it any time soon.
Too much Torque IMHO
I was looking at it, but it's soo hard to keep a positive displacement blown engine bay cool.
keep in mind, KB guys are seeing AVERAGE secondary IAT temps of 180*.
You can only run an air/water IC. So basically, it'll be good on a track, when you can run full ICY water. On the street, it's going to HEAT IT UP. Even with Meth injection, your going to be getting so much heat soak you'll wish you went another route.
YES, it will produce a SH*TTON of power. Your talking easily about 700+rwhp on ~20PSI
The blower alone is a good $5,000. your talking about an $8000 build just engine/fuel alone.
IF this is what you want, go for it, totally go for it. But I won't be doing it any time soon.
#22
The 3.4L is kind of a waste on a 2V, your going to multiply your displacement up to 3 times, so It'd be more like running a 12L engine
Too much Torque IMHO
I was looking at it, but it's soo hard to keep a positive displacement blown engine bay cool.
keep in mind, KB guys are seeing AVERAGE secondary IAT temps of 180*.
You can only run an air/water IC. So basically, it'll be good on a track, when you can run full ICY water. On the street, it's going to HEAT IT UP. Even with Meth injection, your going to be getting so much heat soak you'll wish you went another route.
YES, it will produce a SH*TTON of power. Your talking easily about 700+rwhp on ~20PSI
The blower alone is a good $5,000. your talking about an $8000 build just engine/fuel alone.
IF this is what you want, go for it, totally go for it. But I won't be doing it any time soon.
Too much Torque IMHO
I was looking at it, but it's soo hard to keep a positive displacement blown engine bay cool.
keep in mind, KB guys are seeing AVERAGE secondary IAT temps of 180*.
You can only run an air/water IC. So basically, it'll be good on a track, when you can run full ICY water. On the street, it's going to HEAT IT UP. Even with Meth injection, your going to be getting so much heat soak you'll wish you went another route.
YES, it will produce a SH*TTON of power. Your talking easily about 700+rwhp on ~20PSI
The blower alone is a good $5,000. your talking about an $8000 build just engine/fuel alone.
IF this is what you want, go for it, totally go for it. But I won't be doing it any time soon.
#23
When you have 800lb/ft of torque available at 2500RPM, do you really think your ever going to hook?
if you do plan on going with it, for the life of you, please get yourself some rear gears either around 3.31:1 or 2.73:1's
#24
they are having "problems". Anything over 15PSI has shown to be too much for anything on the street.
When you have 800lb/ft of torque available at 2500RPM, do you really think your ever going to hook?
if you do plan on going with it, for the life of you, please get yourself some rear gears either around 3.31:1 or 2.73:1's
When you have 800lb/ft of torque available at 2500RPM, do you really think your ever going to hook?
if you do plan on going with it, for the life of you, please get yourself some rear gears either around 3.31:1 or 2.73:1's
yea, LOL! i dont think my 3.90 gears would go well with 800rwtq at 2500rpms....hell they perform like **** with 430rwtq
#25
ahhh, i understand now. well it is not definite that i am doing this. just a idea and thought it would be unique and possibly some what better than say going to the 2.6KB. still researching it though.
yea, LOL! i dont think my 3.90 gears would go well with 800rwtq at 2500rpms....hell they perform like **** with 430rwtq
yea, LOL! i dont think my 3.90 gears would go well with 800rwtq at 2500rpms....hell they perform like **** with 430rwtq
well, it would be awesome on the strip with MT Bias Ply slicks, a built rear, transmission, and a full cage and really good subframes and everything.
But you'd really start twisting the chassis constantly, just ask Oxford how he feels without a cage, with a different kind of powerband
#27
i wonder if the 4 point cage(the one that that install behind the back seat) would be enough? or if one would have to do a full cage to prevent the twist? do not want a full cage in the car as it is not a full out track car. drive it quite often.
#28
i wonder if the 4 point cage(the one that that install behind the back seat) would be enough? or if one would have to do a full cage to prevent the twist? do not want a full cage in the car as it is not a full out track car. drive it quite often.
#29
i wonder if the 4 point cage(the one that that install behind the back seat) would be enough? or if one would have to do a full cage to prevent the twist? i do not want a full cage in the car as it is not a full out track car.i drive it quite often.
edit: wow!! 3 post for the fail!LOL! damn thing kept loading and loading
edit: wow!! 3 post for the fail!LOL! damn thing kept loading and loading
Last edited by Tim99GT; 03-31-2009 at 06:49 PM.
#30
is the car a convertible or is it a coupe? You could do a SCCA style cage, which has diagonal supports in the rear, and it won't affect the ability to get in and out of the car.
If you wanted to get rid of all the body twist, yes, you would need a full cage.
If you wanted to get rid of all the body twist, yes, you would need a full cage.