4.6L General Discussion This section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 4.6L (Modular) Mustangs built from 1996 to 2004.

Looking for some feedback on after marker parts

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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 10:17 PM
  #11  
mrtstang's Avatar
mrtstang
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The only bolt ons i could really "feel" were gears, tune, and long tubes w/mid pipe.

I wouldn't say the rest of the bolt ons were worthless... it's just that i couldn't really feel them.

Hopefully that helps a little.

Last edited by mrtstang; Apr 16, 2009 at 10:18 PM. Reason: mistake
Old Apr 17, 2009 | 05:57 PM
  #12  
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robcon27
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Sweet guys, I really appreciate the info, CAI is out, at least for now, ill pass on the coil packs and try to find a good deal on the TB and plenum. As for headers, Brothers Performance makes a set and they are cheap, so are they just crap or actually a good product?
Old Apr 17, 2009 | 06:40 PM
  #13  
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JJ03MustangGT
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Originally Posted by robcon27
Sweet guys, I really appreciate the info, CAI is out, at least for now, ill pass on the coil packs and try to find a good deal on the TB and plenum. As for headers, Brothers Performance makes a set and they are cheap, so are they just crap or actually a good product?
if you want cheap, but decent quality then check out MAC.
Old Apr 17, 2009 | 06:54 PM
  #14  
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ct_white_stang
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Make sure you plan on spending money for tuner. Either way if you get gears you will need one and if you get long tubes you will need some type of tune if the 02 sensors are furthur downstream. I vote tuner.
Old Apr 17, 2009 | 07:11 PM
  #15  
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Red2002GT
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After a defective set of headers (warped flange) and the worst fitting H pipe known to man for my 95 GT I will never own another BBK product.
Gears..... Cheap if you can do them yourself if not plan for around $350 for install at least around here. I like my Accufab 70 mm TB&P.
My aluminum driveshaft also made it fell like it revs better.....
Presonally if I bought my car today the first mod would be a maximum motorsports pan hard bar.
My theory is make the car so it can be driven fast, before you make the car fast.
Old Apr 17, 2009 | 07:44 PM
  #16  
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Mustang3GT07
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If your going to do longtubes, go with kooks or ARH. Both have A+ quality so you won't have to worry about it. There both pricey but you get what you pay for.
Old Apr 17, 2009 | 09:20 PM
  #17  
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boduke0220
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Originally Posted by JJ03MustangGT
ok first off save your money. do not waste it on any intake! they are worthless other than there looks, which is why ebay CAIs are great if you like popping your hood. any t/b and plenum combo will do fine. i had the accufab, it was pricey but got the job done. i know a lot of people like the PP t/b combo so really my advice is pick the best priced deal you can find. gears are great, autos need 3:73s and m5s need at least 3:90s or 4:10s. Lt headers are the only headers that are worth the trouble or money. midpipes come down to H or X pipes and catted or off road. pick the midpipe according to sound not power, theres not enough difference to justify cost between the two. catbacks as well are merely for sound. pick the one you like. i like borla or bassani but again they are pricey. flowmaster/magnaflows are the most popular. if you need any more help give me a shout. i could write a friggin book on bolt ons...lol

If anything the auto's need 4.30's. my friend got 3.73's in his auto and i couldnt tell a damn bit of difference. maybe a tad but not much.
Old Apr 17, 2009 | 11:54 PM
  #18  
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JJ03MustangGT
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Originally Posted by boduke0220
If anything the auto's need 4.30's. my friend got 3.73's in his auto and i couldnt tell a damn bit of difference. maybe a tad but not much.
but does he have a stall? a lot of guys forget that an auto needs stall/gears to go fast, not just gears. they have to match and work together. stalled/geared autos if setup right should eat up m5s from light to light all day long
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