mike08

i just talked to a tech at Spec and he said I should get an aftermarket quadrant and a new cable but to stay away from the firewall adjuster itself

jwog666

the steeda quadrant i bought had to be used with a firewall adjuster, so make sure that the one you choose wont need one.

99 GT vert

ok sorry to hijack this thread but how do you adjust the fire wall adjuster just turn it? my brother is having the same problems on his car he floors it at 60 or so in 5th gear and the rpms just go up with out him going any faster. He already has the upr adjuster but no quadrant i do believe. is there a screw or something that is holding it in or what thanks

jwog666

if its like this steeda adjuster
http://www.steedaautosports.com/prod...e_adjuster.php
according to steeda you must use an aftermaket quadrant with the firewall adjuster. maybe that is the issue.

there is a set screw that can be tightened to lock it in position. i didnt tighten it down on mine due to the fact that there is a built in detent that keeps it from turning in service. before messing with that i would check clutch pedal free play. make sure that you and push the pedal down slightly .75-1 in before tou feel any significant resistance. if you dont have enough free play the clutch will not fully engage.

cliffyk

FWIW--this got longer than I intended...
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There needs to be 1" to 1-1/2" free play in the clutch pedal, when you press on it with your hand, and before you feel the ToB start to work the clutch spring.

It seems as though there have been a number of people of late who feel you can use the cable adjustment to relocate the clutch's engagement point--you can, but to a limited extent. You cannot have no free play (for a very quick release) as you run the risk of never having the clutch fully engaged and slipping under high loads--as the OP here has done.

Nor can you have too much freeplay (clutch grabbing close to the floor), as the clutch may drag (not fully disengage) which can damage the synchro rings, shift forks, and gears in the tranny.

Here's a link to a great explanation of how the OEM semi-automatic adjuster works, and how to set it manually as well.

Regarding aftermarket quadrants, firewall adjusters, and adjustable cables, my experience, as well as that of many others, has been that most aftermarket adjustable cables are all breakage prone because of the stress point created where the cable is crimped in to the threaded extension at the clutch fork end.

Steeda seems to have redesigned their's and it looks as though it is greatly improved. However by using a firewall adjuster and multihook quadrant you do not need an adjustable cable, the stock cable (acknowledged by most to be superior) can be used.

It really doesn't matter whose multihook quadrant you buy, is just a machined chunk of aluminum, however I advise that you round any sharp edges in the quadrant's cable groove and exit point that might contact the cable--and use a bit of good quality grease on the cable and quadrant groove during installation.

There are a number of firewall adjuster designs available, some using setscrews for locking the setting, some using a large knurled lock nut, and my favourite UPR's quick click unit that uses an interrupted thread on the adjustable insert and a spring loaded detent to lock in the setting. This means that no tools are required to change the setting...