Confused?!?!?!?
07-02-2009, 08:07 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location:
Posts: 213
Confused?!?!?!?
im confused about everything when it comes to the build up of an engine. i have a 02 mustang gt can i keep the stock block and just add bolt ons, patriot stage 2 heads, comp cams stage 2, different crank(dont know any good ones) pistons(same as crank). if i can how much more hp will i end up having. also im confused when it comes to the whole numbers on the heads and etc.. it says for the patriot heads built to customers prefrence or whatever damn i dont know what or how or aghhh im confused someone help me on all of this. I just want a good amount of RWHP if im going to be buying all of this. i want it ready for a SC later on down the road so if someone can give me good tips or advice on all of this please help as much as possible. P.S. break it down Barney style!
07-02-2009, 09:29 PM
#2
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 732
first off...
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/
they sell excellent short-blocks. and since you may not know what that means, "short-block" doesn't refer to the length or style of the block itself, it just means you get a block with rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons). you can get a long-block, which is essentially a short-block with cylinder heads included. the MMR engines are rated to some pretty high horsepower levels (more than you'll be looking at even with a blower).
also when you're picking out cams, you'll see "N/A" grinds (naturally aspirated.. no forced induction) and "Blower" grinds (meant for forced induction). the cams are designed differently because with N/A, you're relying on the engine's vacuum to suck the gas/air mixture into the cylinders. with a blower this isn't a concern (air is forced in rather than sucked in) so the cam grind is a bit different (i won't go into the specifics like duration, LSA, valve overlap, etc unless you really want to know). keep this in mind though... an N/A cam will still make more power than stock cams when you step up the power with a blower, but you'll make more power with blower cams than the n/a cams with a blower. if you're not sure about whether you'll eventually end up with a blower, just get a good pair of N/A cams. i'd recommend the stage 2's or stage 2.5's from CMS:
http://www.cushmanmotorsports.com/in...11_229_230_1_8
as far as cylinder heads go, i've heard both good and bad things about Patriot Performance. never heard anything bad about Fox Lake though, so you may want to check them out.
and if you have some cash left over, go ahead and put a pair of long-tube headers on there. you'll need a new x-pipe or h-pipe that's designed to work with the longer headers.. your stock h-pipe is too long for long tubes, and i'm sure cutting it down isn't really worth the effort. also other small items like a good throttle body (75mm probably) and upper intake plenum, just to make sure you're getting as much air as possible in there. you may also need larger-than-stock fuel injectors, just ask the shop you plan on working with to see what they recommend.
i'm not gonna lie.. it's expensive, especially if you can't do all the work yourself. but if you're gonna do it, do it right the first time and you'll save money in the long run.
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/
they sell excellent short-blocks. and since you may not know what that means, "short-block" doesn't refer to the length or style of the block itself, it just means you get a block with rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons). you can get a long-block, which is essentially a short-block with cylinder heads included. the MMR engines are rated to some pretty high horsepower levels (more than you'll be looking at even with a blower).
also when you're picking out cams, you'll see "N/A" grinds (naturally aspirated.. no forced induction) and "Blower" grinds (meant for forced induction). the cams are designed differently because with N/A, you're relying on the engine's vacuum to suck the gas/air mixture into the cylinders. with a blower this isn't a concern (air is forced in rather than sucked in) so the cam grind is a bit different (i won't go into the specifics like duration, LSA, valve overlap, etc unless you really want to know). keep this in mind though... an N/A cam will still make more power than stock cams when you step up the power with a blower, but you'll make more power with blower cams than the n/a cams with a blower. if you're not sure about whether you'll eventually end up with a blower, just get a good pair of N/A cams. i'd recommend the stage 2's or stage 2.5's from CMS:
http://www.cushmanmotorsports.com/in...11_229_230_1_8
as far as cylinder heads go, i've heard both good and bad things about Patriot Performance. never heard anything bad about Fox Lake though, so you may want to check them out.
and if you have some cash left over, go ahead and put a pair of long-tube headers on there. you'll need a new x-pipe or h-pipe that's designed to work with the longer headers.. your stock h-pipe is too long for long tubes, and i'm sure cutting it down isn't really worth the effort. also other small items like a good throttle body (75mm probably) and upper intake plenum, just to make sure you're getting as much air as possible in there. you may also need larger-than-stock fuel injectors, just ask the shop you plan on working with to see what they recommend.
i'm not gonna lie.. it's expensive, especially if you can't do all the work yourself. but if you're gonna do it, do it right the first time and you'll save money in the long run.
07-02-2009, 09:40 PM
#3
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: south carolina
Posts: 3,534
1. yes you can keep the stock block
2. with a h/c 4.6 2v dont expect more than 330rwhp with a n/a setup, less with FI cams, comp. ratio
3. ok since your wanting a s/c later you need to drop compression and run blower cams, thus killing your n/a power. id say no more than 300rwhp or so with heads, blower cams and lowered compression. its easier and more cost effective to get the blower first, then build the motor later. at least that way you can play with 400rwhp vs 300rwhp for about the same price. the 4.6 will be fine with 400 or so for a long time, i know b/c i had that exact setup and ran it for 1.5 years with no problems.
2. with a h/c 4.6 2v dont expect more than 330rwhp with a n/a setup, less with FI cams, comp. ratio
3. ok since your wanting a s/c later you need to drop compression and run blower cams, thus killing your n/a power. id say no more than 300rwhp or so with heads, blower cams and lowered compression. its easier and more cost effective to get the blower first, then build the motor later. at least that way you can play with 400rwhp vs 300rwhp for about the same price. the 4.6 will be fine with 400 or so for a long time, i know b/c i had that exact setup and ran it for 1.5 years with no problems.
im confused about everything when it comes to the build up of an engine. i have a 02 mustang gt can i keep the stock block and just add bolt ons, patriot stage 2 heads, comp cams stage 2, different crank(dont know any good ones) pistons(same as crank). if i can how much more hp will i end up having. also im confused when it comes to the whole numbers on the heads and etc.. it says for the patriot heads built to customers prefrence or whatever damn i dont know what or how or aghhh im confused someone help me on all of this. I just want a good amount of RWHP if im going to be buying all of this. i want it ready for a SC later on down the road so if someone can give me good tips or advice on all of this please help as much as possible. P.S. break it down Barney style!
07-02-2009, 09:42 PM
#4
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 1,046
07-03-2009, 04:42 AM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location:
Posts: 213
so let me get this straight all i have to do is buy a good short block? what would i have to add to it to make it work. I think it would have to be cams and heads right? and texas stang 02 ur from houston? me too! what places in houston do u know of that can put everything together at a good cost? i have a friend that is a diesel mechanic and he said he would do it for me? should i let him put the cams and heads on or should i get that done professionaly just incase?????? anything else i would have to do to my car after i build the engine up?
07-03-2009, 06:24 PM
#6
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: California
Posts: 128
Dude, I don't like to kill peoples enthusiasm, and I hate it even more when I get an idea in my head and someone shoots it down... Therefore I really don't want to or mean to upset you... However, I don't want to see you spend thousands on your car and still not be really happy.
Building the engine is really something that you do when you want a car to handle high levels power. Unless you have the 10-20+ k to drop into your engine/drivetrain and you want your car to have 600-700 rwhp+ you should start on the small side and work your way up to the big side.
There have been acouple of good points made in here by people. You could spend thousands and have an engine that could withstand a ton of power... however you won't have the power so it will seem as if you spent that much money on nothing. Or you could go out and by some bolt ons, like a blower and get tons more power and an all around more fun ride. Then when you get the money saved up to build the bottom end, do it and change out the pulleys on the blower. Beef up your fuel system to support the extra air and you are right where you would have been by doing it the other way. The only difference is that you would have 400 hp instead of like 300 hp during the time you spent waiting to build up enough money. At 10 psi, the stock internals will be absolutely fine for the time that it takes you to gather the money to build the motor.
Building the engine is really something that you do when you want a car to handle high levels power. Unless you have the 10-20+ k to drop into your engine/drivetrain and you want your car to have 600-700 rwhp+ you should start on the small side and work your way up to the big side.
There have been acouple of good points made in here by people. You could spend thousands and have an engine that could withstand a ton of power... however you won't have the power so it will seem as if you spent that much money on nothing. Or you could go out and by some bolt ons, like a blower and get tons more power and an all around more fun ride. Then when you get the money saved up to build the bottom end, do it and change out the pulleys on the blower. Beef up your fuel system to support the extra air and you are right where you would have been by doing it the other way. The only difference is that you would have 400 hp instead of like 300 hp during the time you spent waiting to build up enough money. At 10 psi, the stock internals will be absolutely fine for the time that it takes you to gather the money to build the motor.
07-03-2009, 06:55 PM
#7
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: CT
Posts: 1,046
Dude, I don't like to kill peoples enthusiasm, and I hate it even more when I get an idea in my head and someone shoots it down... Therefore I really don't want to or mean to upset you... However, I don't want to see you spend thousands on your car and still not be really happy.
Building the engine is really something that you do when you want a car to handle high levels power. Unless you have the 10-20+ k to drop into your engine/drivetrain and you want your car to have 600-700 rwhp+ you should start on the small side and work your way up to the big side.
There have been acouple of good points made in here by people. You could spend thousands and have an engine that could withstand a ton of power... however you won't have the power so it will seem as if you spent that much money on nothing. Or you could go out and by some bolt ons, like a blower and get tons more power and an all around more fun ride. Then when you get the money saved up to build the bottom end, do it and change out the pulleys on the blower. Beef up your fuel system to support the extra air and you are right where you would have been by doing it the other way. The only difference is that you would have 400 hp instead of like 300 hp during the time you spent waiting to build up enough money. At 10 psi, the stock internals will be absolutely fine for the time that it takes you to gather the money to build the motor.
Building the engine is really something that you do when you want a car to handle high levels power. Unless you have the 10-20+ k to drop into your engine/drivetrain and you want your car to have 600-700 rwhp+ you should start on the small side and work your way up to the big side.
There have been acouple of good points made in here by people. You could spend thousands and have an engine that could withstand a ton of power... however you won't have the power so it will seem as if you spent that much money on nothing. Or you could go out and by some bolt ons, like a blower and get tons more power and an all around more fun ride. Then when you get the money saved up to build the bottom end, do it and change out the pulleys on the blower. Beef up your fuel system to support the extra air and you are right where you would have been by doing it the other way. The only difference is that you would have 400 hp instead of like 300 hp during the time you spent waiting to build up enough money. At 10 psi, the stock internals will be absolutely fine for the time that it takes you to gather the money to build the motor.
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