have to agree.
i would be very concerned about putting anything in crank case other than oil.

Seafoam is even iffy.

Seafoam my clean well but it will also losen up partical which could clog oil journals and causing bearing wear quicker.

Just my 2

 

i meant for vacuum lines...ide never put seafoam in my engine oil...last thing i need is **** clogging the oil pickup and starving the engine till it goes boom

 

Thats horsesh*t. The common confusion of Synthetic "causing" leaks is not true. It doesn't Cause leaks at all. If you have a bad seal, then you have a bad seal. It may be more apparent once you change to synthetic, because it is thinner than conventional oil. But regardless, no matter what oil you use, if you have a bad seal, fix it. Plain and simple. There is no excuse to be cheap and keep using **** oil and sludging up your motor to keep it from leaking through worn seals. **** this is as bad as the whole, "I don't wanna put synthetic oil in my motor, cuz then I can never swithc back to conventional!" Another rumor that isn't true...they are compatible with eachother, hell you can mix them together in the same oil change if you want as long as they are the same weight/viscosity.

 

Well put Devo!
Seriously, my 96 Ranger has 301K on it (2.3) and at 250k started to use Motorcraft blend, true it's not full synthetic but did not have a leak one!

 

I would say at least 1/2 of all people who claim the title of "Car Guys" (including women) don't actually understand oil or it's weights and relationship between synthetics/blends & conventional and what it mean when people say "Additives". That link I posted is a great read and pretty much explains it all in layman terms.

My two favorite oils for new standard duty engines are 0w20 synthetic AMSoil or Rotella 0w20 conventional. I use Mobil1 because I can buy it anywhere and it's proven. If you're a hot lapping racer then a 0w30 will help the pressure drop. (obviously the more you're into racing, the better your components should be... i.e. bigger oil pan & a better pump)

I change my oil once a month.

 

Thats funny you posted that, I just read the same one a little over a month ago, along with some other articles, and promptly switched to Mobil 1 on my next oil change.

 

Thanks for the input. I do my own oil changes, but I had heard somewhere along the way that it could be detrimental to the engine to switch to synthetic without flushing out the buildup from cheap 'ol Penzoil. I will be going to Mobil 1 next weekend...without any ATF fluid. As I stated earlier in this thread...I had the oil pan gasket and rear main seal replaced about 10k miles ago due to leaks. What other seals should I be sure to watch? Thanks again.

 

I had a 3.8 Cutlass that I ran only Penzoil dyno oil in. I drive a lot of miles and changed oil every 5,000 miles. Somewhere around 180,000 mile mark a rocker arm slipped off the pushrod. The mechanic told me the engine was perfectly clean no signs of sluge. If you change oil regularly with any of the good quality oils you shouldn't get sluge. I was surprised. In my younger years I had taken apart motors that had maybe 60,000 miles on them that were caked with sluge.