So heres what im thinking, for sort of buget big power build. Since i have a few problems like i dont know what is acctually damaged in my car or how bad, although its sounds like a rod knock, i dont want to just buy a rotating assembly and find out somthing else is damaged to, plus its my DD so building a short block then swaping everything on a weekend would limit down time. Anyway heres the stuff

MMR 03-04 factory cast block 600
DSS level 10 or dss level 20 race preped block. 725 or 1025

theres my block choices

and rotating assembly
DSS SX assembly 1400
MMR 600 1500
MMR 800 1650
MMR 900 1700

OK question now is i want the posibility of going big power and it being able to hold up for a good amount of time but im curious if a difference of 700 bucks is worth the amount extra ill get out of the higher end stuff? any opinions or knowledge about those parts would be great!

 

goals for the car?

 

dont max out the power capability on the block etc. Dont buy a mmr600 block if you plan on having close to 600 rwhp. I would def leave some cushion.

 

Use the MMR 900 (for 300 more hp capability, it's worth the extra $200 over the MMR 600) and a teksid block out of a 96-98 Cobra or 93-9something Mark VIII. They're like $400 most of the time.

 

i went with a dss block on my gt, so far so good.

 

If I didn't build my own, I would have gone complete with MMR900 or MPH shortblock. I wouldn't piece together a DSS block with MMR rotating assembley just to save $200. Let the professionals assemble it.

Later,
Derrick

 

Just buy an already built shortblock so you dont have to worry about it. You are really blowing a lot of money on a lot of stuff for your car here lately man. New tranny and now a new engine. Man, that must suck.

 

ok few things buying a short block from one of these companys is more than 200 bucks more. Its like 500 or 600 bucks. and more like 700 if i go with a MMR 900 compared to 600 for the block and 1700 for the rotating parts. 700 bucks for doing the easiest part of an engine? how many of you have really done a motor? its not that hard. Only thing id have to do to match what they do is file fit the rings to whatever kind of future power adder i want. and use royal purple assembly lube. Im not saying they dont do great work, just that alot of putting it together is check recheck...attention to detail. Which i happen to like doing. Although i wouldnt try balancing somthing myself lol, but as far as i know im buying it already balanced. Now i can see the problem with not wanting to combine companies but dss has probebly the best blocks available but not alot of choices for rotating assemblies, they get really spendy fast. I could be wrong but i wouldnt think combining the 2 would be a problem? they other thing im trying to do is keep costs down by nickle and diming everything by doing it myself(but still get the most for my money), it adds up fast from 4500-5000 for a long block that i could put together for less than 4k. 700 here 200 there may not sound like alot but when you dont have it.....its a huge amount. Yea i just keep breaking the dam car. Tranny comes friday, rear is done. I wish i had the money to just go out and buy the motor but i dont even have enough to build the SB yet. Thank god for overtime or i would have no money at all...ive got about 1k right now, i was gonna buy a clutch and flywheel but have to hold off, tranny will hold up a while longer if it needs to, need to save for motor.

 

I built mine myself. You can buy a rotating assembly that is balanced. You have to send whatever flywheel you are going to use to them, or buy from the same place, or whatever.

Basically, buy a engine block. I bought a 99 truck block because the webbing was a little reinforced. The main bearings are different from truck to car blocks....found that out the hard way.

Buy a good rotating assembly (rods and pistons). I got manley h-beams and CP 17cc dish pistons because I am supercharged.

Buy some file-fit rings. These need a little work.

Buy a flywheel, or have your's resurfaced.

Buy some federal mogul or clevite main and rod bearings

Buy some ARP main studs/rod studs/head studs.

Buy some new factory ford gaskets (intake/head/oil pan)

Buy a windage tray and pan (if you can afford it)

Buy some plastigauge to check the main bearing and rod bearing clearances.

If clearances are good, assemble shorblock.

Use a good oil pump/pickup tube (I used a cobra setup)

It really is very easy, and I bought the HELMS manual to help with build. I have 25,000 hard miles on my built and I just checked compression last weekend. (150-160 psi on all cylinders).

Let me know if you need more help. I can walk you through or even look up some of the prices I paid on the parts I bought.

Later,
Derrick

 

[QUOTE=dg98gt;6516593]If I didn't build my own, I would have gone complete with MMR900 or MPH shortblock. I wouldn't piece together a DSS block with MMR rotating assembley just to save $200. Let the professionals assemble it.


+1 What is your future hp plans and recommend a professional who will balance it and blue print it especially if you are building one for the first time.

I you only plan on 500-550 rwhp then recommend MMR 600, if you want piece of mine with a forged crank then go with MMR800. MMR900 block is simply over kill for a street car.