Suspension questions (another one...)
10-13-2009, 05:55 PM
#12
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: California
Posts: 875
The Griggs WL is welded via HUGE frame. The frame actually requries the moving of the gas tank back a bit and 1/3 of the spare tire well be cut out in order to allow its travel while the rear end moves upward. This is why I went Griggs PHB as I didn't lose the spare well and gas tank was OK. I also saved about $1000 on the installation, so not to shabby there. I had VERY seriously considered the Fays2, but have since passed as my PHB is working fine. I would have no concerns with the Fays2 bolt up config on a DD ride. If I was to be VERY serious track car, I would spend the cash and go for the heavy duty Griggs WL.
While the Griggs WL is probably the strongest one commercally available, the Griggs PHB is likely the same.
Jazzer
While the Griggs WL is probably the strongest one commercally available, the Griggs PHB is likely the same.
Jazzer
maybe something like this: http://www.lmperformance.com/3612/50.html ?
10-13-2009, 07:22 PM
#14
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,139
don't mean to hijack but wouldn't a suspension kit do the job? I wanna spend the least of $ and have somewhat a good suspension all around. I have some eibach springs already that lowered the car like 2-2.5in. I felt a diff too.
maybe something like this: http://www.lmperformance.com/3612/50.html ?
maybe something like this: http://www.lmperformance.com/3612/50.html ?
Yes, that kit would probably make your car handle slightly better. Is it worth $900? Hell no. You're better off getting full length subframe connectors, nice shocks and struts, stiff springs, cc plates, polyurethane bushings everywhere, adjustable tie rod ends, and better lower control arms, if you want decent handling improvements without breaking the bank. The stuff we're talking about here, many people would consider overkill.
10-13-2009, 07:58 PM
#17
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location:
Posts: 936
I currently have D-specs, H&R SS's, and J&M LCA's. It is a huge difference but if you push the car hard enough you will notice the issues that jazzer was talking about first hand. After I install the MM FLSFC's I have sitting in my garage my next mods are definetly switching to the race springs and finally doing a PHB/TA combo. Dont do the supersports, function over fashion. And definetly upgrade your LCA's when you do your springs and shocks/struts.
10-13-2009, 08:49 PM
#19
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 1,700
10-13-2009, 09:05 PM
#20
There is still no such thing as overkill!!! lol now there does get to a point that you start doing pointless things and that is when you add twin turbos to kenne bell 2.8L. You would be making WAY too much boost and i dont think even your built bottom end would like that too much and your heads might just blow off. But that'd still be badass!!! You should definitely do it!!! Why is he selling it??? Just buy it and keep it in that heap you have in your garage. Eventually when you clean it out years from now, you'll find it and then you will put it on your car when they have created a forged bottom end that will actually withstand that amount of boost. 
Linky to check out: http://www.hellionpowersystems.com/i...boost-resource. They talk about using their twin turbo kit with twin screw blowers and how your boost levels would be INSANE!!! But i would still do it. Imagine...a termie with a whipple 3.4 and twin turbos huffing into that **** lol
Linky to check out: http://www.hellionpowersystems.com/i...boost-resource. They talk about using their twin turbo kit with twin screw blowers and how your boost levels would be INSANE!!! But i would still do it. Imagine...a termie with a whipple 3.4 and twin turbos huffing into that **** lol