01MGGT

Ok so here is what I did. I just put a basic tune with Sniper on the ecu. This is that basic first tune you make with no further changes being made. Then I discoed the battery to reset ecu. THEN I installed and calibrated the LC-1. When I did the calibration everything looked fine and gave the outcome the book said it should. Installed sensor and fired up car. LED light does a steady 1 flash pattern a few times then goes steady solid. I should also note I quickly felt the 02 sensor after doing the calibration before installing and the heater is working. Now here is my questions. I posted two videos on youtube. The first is a cold idle the second a pretty much warmed up idle. I can't drive it to test any more because the snow is falling in wonderful Alaska lol. Does this operation looks normal or did I goof up somewhere? Also, do I have to do the free air calibration EVERY time I Disconnect my battery to reset the ECU? If not what do I need to do each time? Is the LED pattern I am getting when I turn on my ignition the correct pattern to get? Thanks for nay help and I will let yall know if I think of anything else.

cold idle vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdksKtU-iPk
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/VdksKtU-iPk&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/VdksKtU-iPk&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>




Warm idle

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYboOsET3so

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/kYboOsET3so&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/kYboOsET3so&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

H0SS302

You look like your running a tad lean at idle..nothing to big. Mine usually stays at 12 ratio untill I drive a few block then warms up and will stay at 14.7~(where is should be) My LED blinks for about 30second before it stops.

You will notice however if your idle lowers or bounces while at a stoplight your a/f ratio will also reflect a change. its a good diag tool. Your gauge looks like its working fine tho man.

H0SS302

If you have a loptop and want to change your A/F ratio I would strongly recommend you datalog the a/f ratio before hand and dont rely on just the gauge.

Also go to

www.paladinmicro.com and download the sfscrape program and datalog update for the special forces program. Cliff is a damn genious and has come up with the SFScrape program to help you keep track of tunes/aid tuning. Welcome to the Delta Force Tuning community!!

01MGGT

lol thanks for putting me at ease that I didn't screw up I downloaded his app jsut the other day! Also what's a good cheap serial to usb converter that will work with the cable included? My laptop doesn't have serial as most computer in the past 5 years. Dumb that they don't include one.

H0SS302

Thats something you have to search out on your own. I bought one from a guys company on corral. He sold a lot of stuff for tweecar and other stand alone type pcms.

I would get a good quality one however. I paid 20 bucks for mine and it didnt work.

I am using the Delta Force Data Scout to do my data logging now. It allows for a wideband input to be plugged in and logged side by side with other PIDs.

if you have some extra cash I would check into it. I run all this stuff on my HP netbook.. it all fits in a tiny little package and travels everywhere with me.

cliffyk

Looks good to me, I think the cold intake air is allowing the PCM to let the engine run a bit leaner at idle.

Checking the data logged values against the gauge will validate the electrical connections with regard to the ground connections, and the operation of the digital-to-analog converters in the LC-1. Do not expect the values to be spot on equal, however they should be within +/- 0.1 AFR or so.

I have had best luck with Belkin's RS-232 to USB dongles.

01MGGT

Thanks for the help so far guys I don't have an actual cold air intake just a k&N filter but I do have a 75mm TB and a TF plenum. I will look into that usb converter from belkin as well. Also, do you guys know if I have to redo the entire calibration everytime the battery is disconnected or what?

cliffyk

I meant cold intake air (as in Alaska in October), not cold air intake (as in CAI). On the new-edge Mustangs a CAI will have no effect on AFR, or anything else for that matter.

On the '05+ models the intake is made such that the MAF housing is almost integral with the air box--most after market CAIs for these cars make you move the MAF sensor into their new housing, if that housing is differently sized from the OEM housing then it screws up the MAF transfer function and requires a retine to work properly...

jvog

I actually got a usb converter off of ebay for like $9 and it works fine. Its really a hit or miss with those things

PaintballFreak

Tis true. At school we have to have them if you want to be able to program our microcontrollers with our laptops. Half the people's work fine and the other half don't. I would suggest Belkin also as that is the only one I've had success with. I've tried a couple no-name brands with no luck.