This is my second 98 mustang GT, so I knew what I wanted to do when I got it. It was bone stock to start. I have had it about 2 years.

Here is where I am currently:

1998 Mustang GT Convertible
24# fuel injectors
C&L 80mm MAF with 24# tube
C&L aluminum intake tube
Acufab 73mm Throttle body
C&L upper intake
Intake spacer
K&N big cone filter
MSD Coils & wires
Shorty Headers
No cats X pipe
Flowmasters
Hypertech Max performance programmer
Underdrive pully kit
4.10 rear gear
Automatic AODE w/ shift kit
17x9 Steeda chome cobra rs
275 wide back tires
"Strange" (namebrand) 10 way adjustable rear struts
Eibach 1.5 lowering kit

(too many body/gauge/interior mods to list...)

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Now with this setup I only have 1 problem currently. I can not hook up... I remedy this by pressing less of the gas pedal, but I'd sure love to use some of this torque off the line.

I have not had a chance to go to the strip yet, and have not tried slicks... But I would like more hook on the street.

I am thinking lower rear control arms... Probably better rear tires... But what else will help?

Any idea what HP/TQ I might be running? What about estimated 1/4 times?

ok... Once I pass my hooking issues...

I have a 01 SOHC block and heads... My plan is to bore and stroke the block. (I know I have read the posts about this. But I am going to do it. The heads I am going to have bigger valves put in, and some porting work.

I would like to put twin turbos on it. If I do this I will have my compression lowered.

I'm thinking... Can my headers be reversed so they point forward? Then have a guy make me a flange to fit a turbo on each side. Then have him run the down pipes. Buy a tubing kit, and an intercooler and pipe it up. Probably jump to like 50# injectors... Does this sound possible?

Also has anyone used the sniper tuning software? How is it?

 

Sniper is pretty awesome from what ive heard. Its for the DIY people out there. And for your current setup, probably no more than 210rwhp and i couldnt tell you how much torque. Either way, a full bolt on npi gt is going to make maybe 225rwhp. maybe a lil more, but more than likely less. With that power, you can probably see some high to mid 13's if you can get it to hook and you have the rare and eluding driver mod.

Future setup...
Stroker-probably not a good idea
Heads-get them professionally ported and worked over by say fox lake or someone like that.
Compression-doesnt need lowering. compression is fine at about 9.5-10:1 for better spool.
Twin turbos-might wanna look into a larger single turbo too. twins usually go with a more radical build.
Headers reversed-im sure it can be done.
50lb injectors-gonna need a bit more fuel than that to run as much power as im thinking youre gonna want to run. Might need 60, 72, or maybe even 83lb injectors depending on how radical you get with your build.
Dont forget to add in there turbo cams as well.

 

Forgot to mention the Cams... Thanks! But yea, I won't forget those...

That's why I need to decide on my setup before building the motor.

Those current #s on the HP/TQ seem low to me... but obviously I don't know exactly what I have... That's why I asked. And I was hoping low-mid 13s with what I had. Maybe high 12s with slicks, subframes, and control arms, but maybe I am being hopeful.

I know I have eaten up a WS6 (highway speed) and a SS Camaro (light to light) in this one... Possibly just the gearing, and heavy foot/no fear mod.

My last mustang got smoked by my buddies ws6 (modded)... My mustang was the same year, except it was 5 speed, 3.73, did not have the 24# injectors, suspension, wide tires, or MAF...

 

Did you do all the modding yourself or was some of it done before you bought it??? Cus there is no way in hell that you could keep up with a WS6 at highway speeds with an NPI GT...there is just no way...unless your car has PI/SVO heads and cams and you dont know it. Or that guy just cant drive to save his life. Your car just doesnt have the rpm capability and the power at those rpms to do that. Something just doesnt seem right to me at all. Not calling BS, just saying there has to be more mods if you did this feat. And you might be in the mid 13's with everything done but if your car truely is an NPI GT, then you probably will not make it out of the 13's...especially being a vert. I mean its hard enough for us PI guys with another 35 more horsepower stock to get into the 12's n/a. I truely mean no disrespect in this post, just something just doesnt seem right. Sorry if you take offense, i mean no disrespect.

 

No offense taken...

No bull**** from here tho... The guy seemed to be on it to me. I've been working on/driving muscle cars for 12 years.

As far as the heads. They are definitely Non PI... As is the intake. I have checked.

I have PI Heads and Intake, but waiting until my motor swap. No need to do the work twice.

I have not checked cams or internals... Motor runs REALLY smooth when I bought, car had 100,000 miles, and the motor is clean. So I know it was near new. I have put about 15,000 miles on it, and no issues but little things. Ive given it hell too.

But thats what I have, and what happened... I was a little stunned too.

All the mods I listed, I did.

Thanks for the input!

 

Dont get me wrong, thats awesome that you did that. But i have a hard time keeping up with an SS camaro around town and i have a 5 speed PI car. So props to you man.

 

I've knocked down a couple of Corvettes with the bolt-ons I have. Both looked to be about the same year as my car, possibly automatics (not sure). And both times, by the time I made it to 4th gear they were looking at my back bumper. Just light to light stuff, I think if it happened on the freeway it might have been a different story

 

LOL....

 

I see in your signature that you have the same struts as me... Where do you set yours for the best hookup on the road?

And I might see some of the confusion on the PI/Non PI deal...

I did not specify I have a non PI motor/heads/intake in the car.

I have a separate complete 01 SOHC PI motor I purchased a while back to build.

 

In the rear they are shocks for clarification. And for best hook on the street, i just set them to the softest setting. I havent dabbled with them in the year that ive had them but i always...ALWAYS...spin first no matter what but i usually can stick 2nd pretty good with the NT555's that i have if i dont powershift. But we more than likely have the same lowering springs as well. eibach prokits. So for best hook, id say probably setting one or 2. Right now i have them set on 6 up front and 5 on the rear and its a little bit more fun this way because my car spins a little bit but it is kinda hooking at the same time so it feels a slight bit faster than when i have them on a softer setting. I might try setting 3 or 4 soon to see how that feels. But my car needs to pull harder for me to like how it hooks on the softest setting. Its all in how you want your car to feel. If you want it to hook but feel like a dog, then the softest setting is what you want. but i would try it on maybe 2 or 3 and see how you like it there and then go off of what you want it to feel like. Also, going around corners on the softest setting on the street means lots of body roll...keep that in mind