aode08

First my project consist of taking a 5.4 2 Valve Short Block and Mating it to a pair of trickflow heads, stage 2 cams and performance intake.

1. How much HP and Torque will this engine pull naturally at the crank after tuning?

2. I f I decide to run boost on the 5.4 later, is their a need to forge anything(, the boost will be low making 500hp at the crank)?

3. Please do not post or respond to fitment issues with anything I already have that COMPLETELY mastered.

Stock numbers are 235HP 335 Torque at the crank, .

Sxynerd

Don't be a baby, start with the 5.4 4v and be happy.

The 5.4 has the same material internals so it's limited to the maximum rwhp as the 4.6's 425-450rw. (Past 425 and a good tune, it's all a matter of the car gods.)

You'll make about the same numbers as a 4.6 2v with 10:1. (And the numbers with the TF heads and cams are still suspect and over inflated by sellers & manufacturers.) The only thing that's going to be different is the Tq. But since your Stage 2 cams wont be 5.4 specific and you still have the small bore and valve shroud problem, you're gonna hit a plateau of power when you run out of air. Mark my words it will happen.

I don't know what you're referring to about fitment issue since there are none, so in that case, I guess you have mastered it. Although, that doesn't need mastering. Good job, you get a shiny star.

aode08

My goal is to bolt on the tickflow package and make 340HP and 390 lbs of torque at the crank.

Will that happen after the tune?

Trickflow told me a 40-45% hp improvement and 25% tq improvement, as shown in many mustang dyno's on youtube WITH A 4.6, however the extra displacement of the 5.4 will net HUGE TORQUE

5.4
235 HP x40% Improvement with trickflow heads = 330HP untuned

335 Torque x 25% improvement =418 torque untuned

I dont know, about anyone, but 400lbs of torque through some 3:73's sounds NICE

Looks like ill be the first person in the world to bolt on trickflow heads on a 5.4 ? ? ?

Sxynerd

I don't see that out of the ordinary and the Tq "is what you feel" so if that's all your after then it's a good plan. But remember, a set of well ported PI heads and good cams with a bump in compression will get you to the same numbers.

(Also, remember, Tq gets you off the line and the Hp is what wins the race.)

If it were me, and that was my goal, I'd build it to 11:1 and make good usable hp/tq for a DD and then give it to my little sister.

WannaBeGearHead

What is valve shroud? I have seen that before but don't know what it means.

Sxynerd

The valves are really close to the cylinder walls and it impedes the air flow to the valves. TF was supposed to cure this but I don't think it's done much good.

WannaBeGearHead

How do you know there will be valve shroud with the heads he is looking at?

Sxynerd

Well, from the way I read and seen it, TF swapped the intake valves to the opposite side to cure this problem but the bore is only "so big" and TF and their bigger valves are doing the same thing, only now instead of fighting for flow from the wall side, it's competing for the same air only on the other side. It might be better but it's not cured.

IMO the ONLY way to make big power NA is Big Bore and at minimum 11-12.5:1 compression for a street pump gas car.

WannaBeGearHead

So you can get valve shroud because the heads don't flow well enough and can't get enough air in the cylinder?

The more displacement, you need more air and bigger valves otherwise you will get valve shroud?

Fobra

you have shrouding because of the bore of the cylinder, the 5.4 block is essentially a "tall deck" 4.6, allowing more stroke. The fact of the matter is that these modulars are not good for n/a power. They can make decent n/a power... but in comparison to others its not very good. Sxyned is right, you need to run race ported 3v heads and cams and high compression to hope to make higher hp n/a. I have seen one 5.4 4v make in the mid 500s, it was a dual carb conversion 4v 5.4 and im not sure the compression but im sure it was at least 13+ (a race gas motor)