Engine Rebuild
#1
Engine Rebuild
Hey everyone. So my Mustang is goin through some issues right now. I got a knock goin on in the engine. Think it's a bad lifter or a rod and piston assembly. Anyways, I have had all kinds of issues with this car since I bought it so I'm to the point where I'm looking at doing a full engine rebuild.
With that rebuild I want to get the engine to around 400HP crank naturally aspirated. What do you guys suggest as the best brands out there and websites to get parts from. I've looked at a ton of places but I wanted to get some opinions from those who have been through this before.
With that rebuild I want to get the engine to around 400HP crank naturally aspirated. What do you guys suggest as the best brands out there and websites to get parts from. I've looked at a ton of places but I wanted to get some opinions from those who have been through this before.
#2
If I was going to do this, I would start off with a non pi shortblock from a 96-98 car. You will have a bumped compression from this.
Unless you plan to get over 450 wheel hp(about 520 crank hp) you dont need any forged parts, so stock parts are acceptable.
your going to need 340 wheel ho to meet your goal of 400 crank hp, for that your going to need:
TF heads(in this case I would use the 33cc heads to bump compression even more)
A good set of stage 2 cams(stage 3 will give more gains but piston notching and drivability will be crap)
And I would put on a set of long tubes.
Fuel injectors and maybe a new fuel pump
Iv seen reports of people getting 350 RWHP with trick flow heads and stage 2 cams and bolt ons through an automatic. SO that being said you should be around 360+ with this setup. and it should be fairly cheap to do considering the heads/cams will be the most expensive part.
Unless you plan to get over 450 wheel hp(about 520 crank hp) you dont need any forged parts, so stock parts are acceptable.
your going to need 340 wheel ho to meet your goal of 400 crank hp, for that your going to need:
TF heads(in this case I would use the 33cc heads to bump compression even more)
A good set of stage 2 cams(stage 3 will give more gains but piston notching and drivability will be crap)
And I would put on a set of long tubes.
Fuel injectors and maybe a new fuel pump
Iv seen reports of people getting 350 RWHP with trick flow heads and stage 2 cams and bolt ons through an automatic. SO that being said you should be around 360+ with this setup. and it should be fairly cheap to do considering the heads/cams will be the most expensive part.
#8
depending on your power level an course 4.10s could be better. I personally love 4.10s, but I did find sometimes that I was rowing the boat to much at autocross events. sometimes I wish I had 3.55s so I wouldnt have to take it out of 2nd.