BBK long tube header fitment
#1
BBK long tube header fitment
I know I know, I just said I'm not getting headers, but I'm debating again. I searched and searched and everyone say's they're the best headers for the price, but the fitment sucks, However nobody says why. I read that the dipstick gets in the way, is this true and what can be done about it? Also what else does everyone mean when they say they have bad fitment? I don't want any issues when I install these things, this is my DD and it can't be down to long.
#2
they say bad fitment bc you hafta cut one bolt to make it fit, and you hafta use several (actually almost half) of the stock bolts to get those bastards on there. and its just a tight space altogether, so you will be left cursing and yelling and end up with bunch of bloody knuckles (either from sh*t being in the way, or from punching the cement out of frustration). also, i had problems with my EGR fitting. my advice would be to completely remove the EGR and thread over the fitting on the BBK's several times to make sure it will go on smoothly.
these are the same problems you will have with almost all the headers on the market. the only ones i've heard that don't have all these problems (but still have some) are MAC's. now i would strongly suggest you read this how-to page before buying, so you know what you're getting yourself into: http://www.fnsweet.com/garage/lt_install/index.shtml
before anyone goes on smashing BBK LT's, i have had no problems whatsoever with my BBK's since they've been installed, and their welds look fine to me. and they sound mean as hell wit an O/R H-pipe!
edit: the dipstick wasn't that difficult. just remember which way you took it out, cuz i forgot and broke my stock one. bought another one at the dealership for 10 bucks and it slipped right in when i did it right
these are the same problems you will have with almost all the headers on the market. the only ones i've heard that don't have all these problems (but still have some) are MAC's. now i would strongly suggest you read this how-to page before buying, so you know what you're getting yourself into: http://www.fnsweet.com/garage/lt_install/index.shtml
before anyone goes on smashing BBK LT's, i have had no problems whatsoever with my BBK's since they've been installed, and their welds look fine to me. and they sound mean as hell wit an O/R H-pipe!
edit: the dipstick wasn't that difficult. just remember which way you took it out, cuz i forgot and broke my stock one. bought another one at the dealership for 10 bucks and it slipped right in when i did it right
Last edited by trailor; 06-24-2010 at 03:10 PM.
#4
I watched the grease monkey put my BBK long tubes on and as mentioned above some of the bolts are hard to get in and the dipstick can be a pain. After he was done they look great and sound wicked. I also got the o/r h pipe, and would NOT recommend anything but the h pipe.
#6
I Just installed BBK long tubes on my car over the winter along with a tu bular K-Frame. I did not have to cut one of the studs on the drive side i simply just dinged the primary tube and it fit fine, I also only re-used 2 studs on each side the rest I was able to fit the stage 8 bolts. I also had to put a few dings on the primarys on the passenger side to clear the frame rail. Other than that theye fit fine I just had a PITA time actually getting them on. Some of the bolts/studs only had enough wrenchin room to turn a hair before i had to pull the wrench off and re grab it and did result in alot of busted knuckled and cursing. All in all even with the k-frame out it took me a good 3 hours a side to get the damn things on. Anyone who did long tubes on a 4V with the factory K-frame still on the car Kudos to them because I can't even imagine it being possible.
#7
PS. I also spent an hour trying to fish the factory dipstick tube back down through the headers. Ended up breaking it trying to put small bends in it, I was never so pissed in my life untill i tried getting that dipstick back in. Ended up ordering the braided flexible dipstick tube from lokar it was like 80$ on summit, it dropped in in 10 seconds so the 80$ is alot for a dipstick but well worth saving you the headache and frusration of trying to get the factory tube through.
#8
the headers for the 4v are different from the 2v i believe (different bends and whatnot), so thats why you probably didn't experience the same problems with the bolts.
and a lift would make the whole process a breeze (in comparison). but to the everyday garage mechanic, a lift is not much of an option. either way, its still a PITA
and a lift would make the whole process a breeze (in comparison). but to the everyday garage mechanic, a lift is not much of an option. either way, its still a PITA
#9
Well I have an engine lift, that's no an issue, my buddy said his friend did it on hiscobra, just by pulling the engine half way up. Is this easier to do? Should I go that route? This is sounding more and more like something I shouldn't mess with on a DD car.
#10
well sh*t you didn't say that! yea it will probably be much easier to do by lifting the engine up a few inches. its not easy removing the motor mounts without the k member being off, but its much easier than removing the k member. your process will be cut in half with an engine lift. to me, its worth it. if you're content with soundin like every other mustang on the road, then maybe it won't be worth it to you