new block!
Seems as if no one has asked how much money he has to blow...if your doing it over time you can pace yourself money wise.
I say you build a 5.1 stroker 4v and turbo it. With supporting heads and cam. 700+ wouldnt be a problem on pump gas
And to the comment about adding more cubes being ineffective. Go over on SVTP and look at the badasz motors and find me one that isint a 5.0+ motor
I say you build a 5.1 stroker 4v and turbo it. With supporting heads and cam. 700+ wouldnt be a problem on pump gas
And to the comment about adding more cubes being ineffective. Go over on SVTP and look at the badasz motors and find me one that isint a 5.0+ motor
I was simply trying to find him the most cost effective setup to safely and reliably meet his power goals.
As for the adding stroke challenge you asked for me to find one badass motor that isnt 5.0+ here are several.
(Jim Cushman) 10inch terror has a destroked mod motor that revs to 11k and makes some pretty good HP numbers
and
(Mitch) 1SLO85 had the silver bucket which was a 4.6. and it made 380+ rwhp N/A
also
look at all of the people that have Termi's with stock 4.6 bottom ends and Whipple 3.4L pushing 630+ rwhp or that compound boost car with 1188 rwhp it is 4.6l as well IIRC.
I am just saying, adding stroke is ineffective because the heads (particularly 2v) can barely feed the 90mm stroke as is, and unless you want a less rev-happy motor with a higher piston velocity which puts more stress on just about every component stroke isn't the way to go.
This isn't exactly the old days of hotrodding where you could just build it bigger and it would be better. with these motors you need to build them smarter.
The reason people add stroke IMO is they have run out of other things to do. Or they like to say they have a 5.0.
Now on some turbo applications stroke can be beneficial simply because the with each rotation of the crank you are pushing more exhaust gas past the turbo causing it to spool faster.
As for the adding stroke challenge you asked for me to find one badass motor that isnt 5.0+ here are several.
(Jim Cushman) 10inch terror has a destroked mod motor that revs to 11k and makes some pretty good HP numbers
and
(Mitch) 1SLO85 had the silver bucket which was a 4.6. and it made 380+ rwhp N/A
also
look at all of the people that have Termi's with stock 4.6 bottom ends and Whipple 3.4L pushing 630+ rwhp or that compound boost car with 1188 rwhp it is 4.6l as well IIRC.
I am just saying, adding stroke is ineffective because the heads (particularly 2v) can barely feed the 90mm stroke as is, and unless you want a less rev-happy motor with a higher piston velocity which puts more stress on just about every component stroke isn't the way to go.
This isn't exactly the old days of hotrodding where you could just build it bigger and it would be better. with these motors you need to build them smarter.
The reason people add stroke IMO is they have run out of other things to do. Or they like to say they have a 5.0.
Now on some turbo applications stroke can be beneficial simply because the with each rotation of the crank you are pushing more exhaust gas past the turbo causing it to spool faster.
Last edited by defconfire; Jul 20, 2010 at 09:03 AM.
dang i cant right anything on here without someone getting mad or talking **** lol! i dont know enough I know some but when it gets into details im lost. im just trying to find a good setup and defcons sounds nice but as for rotating assemblies what are some good ones? with that supercharge build that defcon posted up is it a good blower or should i wait to get a kenne bell
I was saying if he had the money and wanted to go 4v (i kno a 2v isint really worth it due to not flowing enough)....didnt seem like he was on a budget
Naz had a H/C/I stroked 4v pushing ~540rwhp with a ****y tune.
I have seen tons of stroked 4v's due to the fact they can flow the air needed
But like you said a 2v i wouldnt bother and just throw some sort of F/I
Naz had a H/C/I stroked 4v pushing ~540rwhp with a ****y tune.
I have seen tons of stroked 4v's due to the fact they can flow the air needed
But like you said a 2v i wouldnt bother and just throw some sort of F/I
The reason its frustrating. Is because before you build and engine you need to understand how it works.
You need to learn how to crawl before you can sprint.
You really need to know what every component is, and whats it's function is before you start piecing together a crazy build.
I really learned a lot about engine when went out and designed one for myself in Solidworks, with my own designed/dimensions crank, my own custom cam, my own heads my own block and my own valves. I built and dimensioned everything down to the oil-pan bolt.
I calculated stresses on the rods pistons and crank, balanced the rotating aseembly, and I even flow benched the heads and Intake manifold and Headers using COSMOS and made improvements wherever necessary. To improve flow and scavenging.
IIRC Before I designed this I had only taken apart one engine and it was a Ford 352 Big Block, which I later converted into a table. But by doing these two things I really developed a better understanding of all of the internal mechanical and flow processes at work inside an internal combustion engine.



I'm not saying you need to go out and design your own engine but what I would suggest is taking an engine apart at sometime and looking around at everything. Possibly consider talking to your engine building buddy and see if he can show you around the internals a little.
If you have ever played with Legos you'll know, If you don't know what the hell you are building in the beginning it sure as hell wont come out as what you want in the end.
You need to learn how to crawl before you can sprint.
You really need to know what every component is, and whats it's function is before you start piecing together a crazy build.
I really learned a lot about engine when went out and designed one for myself in Solidworks, with my own designed/dimensions crank, my own custom cam, my own heads my own block and my own valves. I built and dimensioned everything down to the oil-pan bolt.
I calculated stresses on the rods pistons and crank, balanced the rotating aseembly, and I even flow benched the heads and Intake manifold and Headers using COSMOS and made improvements wherever necessary. To improve flow and scavenging.
IIRC Before I designed this I had only taken apart one engine and it was a Ford 352 Big Block, which I later converted into a table. But by doing these two things I really developed a better understanding of all of the internal mechanical and flow processes at work inside an internal combustion engine.



I'm not saying you need to go out and design your own engine but what I would suggest is taking an engine apart at sometime and looking around at everything. Possibly consider talking to your engine building buddy and see if he can show you around the internals a little.
If you have ever played with Legos you'll know, If you don't know what the hell you are building in the beginning it sure as hell wont come out as what you want in the end.
Last edited by defconfire; Jul 20, 2010 at 12:38 PM.
I feel like this thread is spinning in circles like a "Merry-Go-Round"...Does this thread need to be converted to Chinese for someone to understand???
Saying it is worthless to mod a 2v is utterly rediculous. Throw some TFS heads on a 2v and see how that baby "flows".
Saying it is worthless to mod a 2v is utterly rediculous. Throw some TFS heads on a 2v and see how that baby "flows".


