Looking for a shift knob for my 5 speed
10-07-2010, 04:28 PM
#42
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: KY, was MA
Posts: 2,797
I did not take any photos, didn't occur to me--next time I make one I will.
The ball was drilled 5/8"Ø, 1.625" deep--the measured bore was 0.627" after drilling.
The insert was machined of 3/4"Ø 6061 aluminum, the shank is 0.626"Ø by 1.5" opened ended, threaded M12x1.5 a bit over 3/4" at the entry, the remainder of the insert bore was counter-bored (drilled) 31/64"Ø from the "back" end.
It was epoxied into the ball using a Permatex steel filled fast cure product, which IMHO will provide a more secure fit-up than would any attempt to use a press or chilled fitment due to the greatly dissimilar materials, and unknown properties of the ball.
There's plenty of surface area for the epoxy to bond (3.0in²), and steel filled epoxy sticks like "baby shìt to a blanket" on both materials.
The ball was drilled 5/8"Ø, 1.625" deep--the measured bore was 0.627" after drilling.
The insert was machined of 3/4"Ø 6061 aluminum, the shank is 0.626"Ø by 1.5" opened ended, threaded M12x1.5 a bit over 3/4" at the entry, the remainder of the insert bore was counter-bored (drilled) 31/64"Ø from the "back" end.
It was epoxied into the ball using a Permatex steel filled fast cure product, which IMHO will provide a more secure fit-up than would any attempt to use a press or chilled fitment due to the greatly dissimilar materials, and unknown properties of the ball.
There's plenty of surface area for the epoxy to bond (3.0in²), and steel filled epoxy sticks like "baby shìt to a blanket" on both materials.
10-07-2010, 07:55 PM
#43
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,229
That's been my experience with cars in the past which is why I want to go that route. I also like the look of a stock **** best, I don't know why. I guess the shift **** isn't what I want to stand out inside my interior.
I have an aluminum one and the black interior I can't stand it, it's like a women, doesn't matter what you do, it just always does the opposite of what you want.
That's another reason I love the stock style ****... function. I love the way my hand just fits well on them unlike others.
Anyway thanks for all the input guys, I never expected this much from a shift **** thread haha.
FWIW, I have had a bullitt **** for a few years (which is what my car came with), and have also ran a hurst q-ball white shifter on my 3650......and I have to say the best feeling shift **** I have had on my car to date is a beat down old 2001 cobra shift **** that I got for $5 off a guy at the track. You don't really realize how much grip and control of the **** you actually lose from going to a smooth ball type shifter when compared to a leather **** like the ones that come stock on our cars and the cobras.
Anyway thanks for all the input guys, I never expected this much from a shift **** thread haha.
10-07-2010, 08:05 PM
#44
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 4,039
I did not take any photos, didn't occur to me--next time I make one I will.
The ball was drilled 5/8"Ø, 1.625" deep--the measured bore was 0.627" after drilling.
The insert was machined of 3/4"Ø 6061 aluminum, the shank is 0.626"Ø by 1.5" opened ended, threaded M12x1.5 a bit over 3/4" at the entry, the remainder of the insert bore was counter-bored (drilled) 31/64"Ø from the "back" end.
It was epoxied into the ball using a Permatex steel filled fast cure product, which IMHO will provide a more secure fit-up than would any attempt to use a press or chilled fitment due to the greatly dissimilar materials, and unknown properties of the ball.
There's plenty of surface area for the epoxy to bond (3.0in²), and steel filled epoxy sticks like "baby shìt to a blanket" on both materials.
The ball was drilled 5/8"Ø, 1.625" deep--the measured bore was 0.627" after drilling.
The insert was machined of 3/4"Ø 6061 aluminum, the shank is 0.626"Ø by 1.5" opened ended, threaded M12x1.5 a bit over 3/4" at the entry, the remainder of the insert bore was counter-bored (drilled) 31/64"Ø from the "back" end.
It was epoxied into the ball using a Permatex steel filled fast cure product, which IMHO will provide a more secure fit-up than would any attempt to use a press or chilled fitment due to the greatly dissimilar materials, and unknown properties of the ball.
There's plenty of surface area for the epoxy to bond (3.0in²), and steel filled epoxy sticks like "baby shìt to a blanket" on both materials.
10-07-2010, 08:09 PM
#45
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
"That's another reason I love the stock style ****... function. I love the way my hand just fits well on them unlike others."
This makes me wonder why you asked in the first place--what works for you is all that matters...
This makes me wonder why you asked in the first place--what works for you is all that matters...
10-07-2010, 08:29 PM
#46
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
This is 100% geezer ranting
[/warning]
Knurling is a kludge that is done for sloppy production runs (think the winding **** on cheap fishing reels), or when someone it too lazy to make things fit in the first. I have several knurling tools, and mostly use them to make ***** and such; and once in a while [hangs head in shame] to bail myself out of a screw-up.
When using modern full set adhesives it is rarely necessary unless one or both of the materials being bonded displays no affinity for the bonding agent and the increased surface area will "make the show".
Otherwise a good, properly dimensioned "clearance" fit, engineered within the bonding agent's specs, works much better.
[edit--more geezer rant]
Here's the wind **** I made for my beloved Mitchell 40 series "Copperhead" reel when the knurl fitted OEM POS failed":
[/more geezer rant]
Last edited by cliffyk; 10-08-2010 at 08:45 PM.
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