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Griggs Panhard bar or skip it?

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Old 10-23-2010, 09:00 AM
  #1  
rman101
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Default Griggs Panhard bar or skip it?

i found a great deal on a new griggs heavy duty adjustable panhard bar kit today in my area for around $200! (normally $500). I like to get good deals like this when they come up and in the future i want to make the car handle a little better

current susp. mods are - mach 1 springs/struts, Weld in flsfc's, and UPR LCA's, Ford motorsports strut bar.

should i get it ??? help me out
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Old 10-23-2010, 09:22 AM
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TRUEBLUE3934
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Suspension Techs at the suspension manufacturer I talk to swear by the Panhard bar for the Mustangs. I have a new one sitting in my garage that I have not installed yet, but it is absolutely on my list of things to do when I get time. $200 is a good price. I would do it.

For what it is worth, remember that the new Mustangs have a panhard from the factory so even Ford has realized that it is a worthwhile component for the solid axle Mustangs.
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Old 10-23-2010, 09:45 AM
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Crazycarnut
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I say go for it. That is a hell of a steal at that. That is number 2 on my list of suspinsion mods.
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Old 10-23-2010, 10:17 AM
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Jazzer The Cat
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You will be best off to dump the UCA's and add a torque-arm along with the Griggs PHB. I run a full GR-40 suspension and is the sheet! You will get some benefit from a PHB alone, but the major fault in the Mustang 4-link is the UCA's and their function.

I say pick it up and get the TA as well for cornering prowess you would not believe

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Old 10-23-2010, 07:30 PM
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MineralGrey
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(sorry to hi jack your thread OP) ^ so when you go PB/TA you don't need your UCA how about your lowers? also what is a SLA? <- I just don't know what the acronym stands for.
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:48 PM
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Jazzer The Cat
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There are couple common ways to rid oneself of the UCA's (< horrible little creatures that they are ) and a WL or PHB with a TA is wonderful way. They are now out of the equasion and your car is FAR better at hitting the twisties

SLA = Short Long Arm:
This is a set of twin front control arms that apply increasing negative camber as the front suspension is being compressed. This keeps the outside tire flat to the road surface throughout the travel of the wheel.

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Old 10-24-2010, 12:10 AM
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Aereon
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get it, if thats a legit griggs piece it's a steal! I would have gone griggs but funds do not permit me to spend that much on suspension while I'm still in school=/

I ended up with the MM max grip kit, but would love to swap it for the griggs setup.
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Old 10-24-2010, 12:56 AM
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H0SS302
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Thats a STEAL, get it. I wish I could go back and do my suspension all over now. Now that I have a truck as a DD I would love to swap back to an SRA and do a Watts link and TA.
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Old 10-24-2010, 01:35 AM
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Aereon
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Originally Posted by H0SS302
Thats a STEAL, get it. I wish I could go back and do my suspension all over now. Now that I have a truck as a DD I would love to swap back to an SRA and do a Watts link and TA.
lols why? the IRS pwns face!
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Old 10-24-2010, 01:52 AM
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H0SS302
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Originally Posted by Aereon
lols why? the IRS pwns face!
The only reason I went IRS is because it is a nicer ride. Now that my car is not a DD, Every watts link/TA car iv been in felt better than the IRS from a performance standpoint.
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