2001 Mustang GT Vert Turbo Build
11-01-2010, 06:31 AM
#12
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Texas
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Rookie.....Facepalm
LOL yea.
THIS.
LOL yea.
rear mount turbo can always fit just depends where you mount it. theres a pic of a mustang with rear mount twin turbos under the passenger seat. if theres a will...theres a way.
rear mount turbos are EXTREMELY inefficient though. they take more time to build boost (since it has to pressurize about 30 feet of piping instead of 5) than having them mounted in the traditional manner. the only reason to do a rear mount turbo is if you are trying to do some james bond turbo build and keep everything ALMOST as hidden as humanly possible. at the end of the day though, anyone that knows about cars can tell the difference between an intercooler and turbo piping, from a radiator and a CAI.
and i can understand not doing the turbo before the 5.4 build. the 5.4 is going to sit a lot different in the engine bay and a lot of his piping may have to be re-designed. so infact it will make MORE work for him to do the turbos before hand than after. even if he does the turbo on the 4.6 and "zip ties all the meltable stuff out of the way", with the way the 5.4 sits he may still have a problem with stuff melting after the 5.4 gets dropped in and pipes get re-designed.
rear mount turbos are EXTREMELY inefficient though. they take more time to build boost (since it has to pressurize about 30 feet of piping instead of 5) than having them mounted in the traditional manner. the only reason to do a rear mount turbo is if you are trying to do some james bond turbo build and keep everything ALMOST as hidden as humanly possible. at the end of the day though, anyone that knows about cars can tell the difference between an intercooler and turbo piping, from a radiator and a CAI.
and i can understand not doing the turbo before the 5.4 build. the 5.4 is going to sit a lot different in the engine bay and a lot of his piping may have to be re-designed. so infact it will make MORE work for him to do the turbos before hand than after. even if he does the turbo on the 4.6 and "zip ties all the meltable stuff out of the way", with the way the 5.4 sits he may still have a problem with stuff melting after the 5.4 gets dropped in and pipes get re-designed.
THIS.
11-01-2010, 08:45 AM
#14
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lincoln, NE
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What's the point of spending money on building your block if you aren't even going to be pushing the stock internals?
11-01-2010, 08:53 AM
#15
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LOL really? Did you not see the amount of torque im going to be running? Its not HP that breaks motors, its torque. Anything over 450ftlbs of torque and your pushing it. Im going to be running easiliy over 500. Im shooting for 550
11-01-2010, 08:57 AM
#17
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Because a supercharger will come nowhere CLOSE to the way I want my power to come on. Its not about the 400 hp power level here people, get that through your head right away.. This build will freaking destroy a centri/roots GT pushing the same amount of power. A twin screw would come close, but the turbo would still make it its biyatch.
Last edited by H0SS302; 11-01-2010 at 09:01 AM.
11-01-2010, 09:06 AM
#18
This turbo build is going to spool at 2000rpm, reach full boost by 3000, have a creasy torque curve that peaks well before stock and carries it. This car is going to be a true street car.
11-01-2010, 09:08 AM
#19
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Thats the whole goal for the build right there. USABLE power, on the the low end, but will carry pretty much as high as I want it to...within reason. Ill probably shift it around 6200-6400. Need to figure out the choke point of the 61-62mm turboes on a 5.4L. Im going to be running stage 1 turbo cams also I think and a mild PI head port with stock lower.
11-01-2010, 09:13 AM
#20
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Just curious...I understand your whole usable power need but if you're building a street car, when are you ever going to be seeing 2000-3000rpm in a race? I sure would think, especially with a manual, you would be worried about the 4000-6500rpm range more than the 2000-3000rpm range.