Rokgtar

I am getting ready to order these:

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...r-Control-Arms

I am wondering about the bushings on the rear end - are these the bushings:

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...stallation-Kit

I see that there is a tool to remove them and press them in with the rear end in the car:

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...m-Bushing-Tool

I hate to buy a tool I will likely only use one. Do I really need this?

Thanks!

uberstang1

Its is VERY difficult to get the upper control arm bushing our of the ears on the pumpking without that tool, space is so limited and it requires a great deal of force to "hammer them out" you are better off getting the removal tool.

Rokgtar

Thanks... I had a feeling that would be the case... I'll get the tool.

Can you tell if the link for the bushings is actually the bushings for the pumpkin? I see the ones I need on MM but they have the uppers for 10.00 more (I'm bargain hunting :-) ) I'd like to place the order for both at the same place if I can.

lizzyfan

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-4050-B/
Buy all means use the tool, see if someone you know has one before purchasing it

Rokgtar

Thanks... BTW - why do they include the friction modifier? This is external of the diff, correct?

Jazzer The Cat

I think it is a BAD idea to run ANYTHING other than an OEM UCA on your ride, unless you are strictly a grocery-getter with 1/4 mile use. The OEM arms and bushings are soft with flexable arms for a reason.... the 4 link SUCKS for a street ride!

Rok... what are the ULTIMATE goals for your ride?

Jazzer

Aereon

x eleventy billion, poormans 3 link can be done for about the same price.

uberstang1

Jazzer I been meaning to ask you're opinion on the team Z and baseline upper kits that are rod end both sides (with the shperical bushing in place on the pumpkin) but also relocate the mounting pounds on the pumpkin? What are you're thoughts on these setups?

Jazzer The Cat

I don't know how they do for hitting corners, but probably not much better than the OEM located ones, I just don't know. 1/4 mile guys swear by TeamZ / Baseline and both companies have similar products for this application and see both of them on very fast 1/4 mile rides constantly.

I have spoken to John Griggs about the installation of a PHB/TA set-up, as it relates to drag racing. He has installed them on 8 second cars and says they are an improvement over the 4-link/modified 4-link suspension of the Mustang for weight transfer. MM says the same thing on their website, but have done lots of research and unable to back it up from anywhere else. If one is looking for strictly grocery-getter and 1/4 mile ride, they will help to bring your presence at the Christmas tree

Jazzer

Rokgtar

Thanks for jumping in here, Jazzer... My car is driven about 1000 miles per year. I bought these UCA's because they have a rubber bushing rather than a urethane one - I read on your suspension writeup (and saw the pics of) the urethane boxed end UCA's and thought that since these were rubber, they would be flexible enough. Mine are worn out. It's is not a daily driver, mostly cruising and hitting it on on-ramps and the like, no racing, Just wanted to tighten up the rearend after 145000 miles... I have 3.73's, and also bought FRPP B springs for a small drop (I'm on a real budget and don't want the car to drag the ground, just lower and level it off a bit).