sonicx

So im posting up a new thread. I know Vette, Uber, Jazz wanted to know how the final outcome came with my mustang and the installation process (about 50% done currently). I had gotten the upr's lca's and a Bullitt Supesnion Kit from Ford to install. 1st go around didn't go as planned with the help from 1 buddy and myself. Yesterday I re-tried with guidence from a expert overseeing my work and lending me a big hand. It went better. Not completely done yet. I still have the front spring and struts to install. But on my car let me tell you i still had a heck of a hard time removing the 10.9 bolt in the axle. I kid you not, whomever put the car together didn't use the right bolt in there (both sides), the bolt was bigger than what it was suspose to be and thats the reason why i couldn't get it in/out (see other thread). My mentor who was teaching my how to do my suspension (i am a noob and i am learning the ways of installing and doing my own work.... in progress) was a little suprised himself that we had trouble removing it. We didn't have a torch otherwise it woulda been a snap but after alot of elbow grease, a chisel, a grinder and wacking the heck oughta it, it came out. So far (just with the rear complete) Im happy with the results. The upgrade feels great. I've really appreciated ppl like my new friend who's taken his time and has lent me his time, knowledge, tools, in teaching a young guy how todo things. And also coming on the boards and reading/ seeking direction of where to go for the seasoned MF's who have done mod's over & over. Because i don't know that much and still have a ways to go in learning.... and want to improve.

Now my question for you guys is where can i rent a spring compressor? (I think thats what it's called) Its whatever condesses the spring so it just pops out? Im trying again by myself (front springs / struts). Besides that is there any tools im going to need?

And then my buddy tells me he can teach me how todo ailgnment? Whats the difference if any between me doing it & a shop?

Lastly if there's any other advice?

Thanks in Advance
-sonicx

H0SS302

You dont need a spring compressor, just let the jack down slowly and you will decompress the spring in a safe mannor.

sonicx

No I meant for taking the spring out? Because its not like you just yank the springs out. lol

PS: What are ppl's thoughts on new fuel lines? About when do these wear out and if so does it decrease mpg?

StriderTacticaL

The front springs are easy as hell to do (especially since I don't have a front sway bar currently and I have Cobra brakes) but I can see how it may be intimitating for a first timer. No you don't need a spring compressor to remove the stock springs.

1. Remove your wheel

2. Remove your brake caliper and ziptie it out of the way (I hang it on the K member bolt near the top of the wheelwell)

3. Unbolt your swaybar where it connects to your A arm

4. Remove the nut that holds the bracket which positions your ABS line where the strut bolts are. Then pull the ABS line off the other bracket thats holding the line up top near the top spring perch. You do this so when you lower the A arm, there will be enough slack in the ABS line so you don't overstretch it.

5. Put a jack under your A arm and jack it up slightly to remove the weight off where strut bolts to.

6. Remove the 2 strut bolts. It will help to push against the brake rotor area while you pull out the bolts. Once they are both removed, the rotors & etc. will swing down so be prepared to hold it and slowly let it down. A good thing to do right before this is to screw on 2 of your wheel lugs on your wheel studs so the brake disc stays tight against its seat...otherwise it will try and slip off and scrape against your caliper bracket.

7. Hold onto the spring with one hand and lower the jack thats holding up the A arm. The A arm will now come all the way down.

8. No you don't need a spring compressor. What you want to do is place the end of a crowbar into the 2nd-ish coil from the bottom of the spring and use the spring perch as a pivot for your crowbar to pry the spring out. The safest way I found to do it is kneel down and use one of your knees to push down the top of the brake disc so you keep the A arm as low as possible. At the same time, use one hand to hold onto the spring so it don't just pop out at your face and then use your other hand to pry out the spring with the method I mentioned above.

The spring has little tension on it at this point but it will still feel kinda hard to pry out. It will suddenly pop out of the perch though so becareful. I mentioned to keep one hand on the spring when you are prying it out just for safety.

Tadaaa, you're done.

This is the easiest way to install new springs. I don't know how some people have to loosen the A arm bolts, remove the brake rotors and caliper brackets, or what not just for a spring swap.


Brandon

sonicx

Wow Brandon, thats a great write-up thanks. I'll try to follow that... and post up any odds and ends (if any later). Don't have time to find til next week sometime todo front.

I guess my big questions now are (unless others have more wisdom to share ):

And then my buddy tells me he can teach me how todo ailgnment? Whats the difference if any between me doing it & a shop? I mean i believe him and believe he knows whats up because he's a mech but i just was curious more than anything. Maybe there isn't one.

Also... fuel lines? when do these wear out and if so does it decrease mpg?

H0SS302

I know you meant taking them out.. you dont need a spring compressor period. Just raise the a-arm up with a jack, unbolt everything and slowly let the jack down..

StriderTacticaL

I don't know too much about alignments. I do know that you really don't need them with a very subtle drop like the bullitt springs. I have FRPP B springs all around and the front is dropped about 1 1/8" and my tires are wearing fine. Your bullitt kit should get you about 3/4" of a drop in the fronts, so you should be even more fine. I know that the stock CC plates have little to no room for adjustability anyway so thats why most people who get alignments after a big drop install some aftermarket CC plates at the same time. Or they use adjustable camber bolts.

I don't know too much about fuel lines either...I've never really hard of them wearing out though. I do know that changing the fuel filter is easy as pie and if you haven't already done so, you mightaswell do it while you have your jack and jackstands out.

Whatever you do, DO NOT stick your finger in the holes where the strut bolts go into which connect the struts to the knuckle. Because if you do, and your jack that is holding up the A arm against the weight of the spring suddenly slips, this is what happens: https://mustangforums.com/forum/off-...-my-pinky.html

sonicx

Okay... yea that makes since. Thats pretty much what my friend was trying to explain to me as well. Also good though to get second opinions

Now whats the advantage of changing the fuel filter? I know little as well lol.

sonicx

AHH... gotcha

StriderTacticaL

It's just part of basic maintenance...it could get clogged up after a while. I think you are supposed to change it every 30-50k miles. It's cheap and all you need is a flathead screwdriver and a fuel-line disconnect tool which is basically a cheap piece of plastic you can get at any auto store.

Here's a how-to on it:

http://bullittarchive.com/1009.htm

Our cars (04's at least) don't have that schrader valve so I don't know if we are supposed to use the red button in our trunk for the fuel-cut for it. I didn't do anything and just changed the filter out. A bit of fuel splashed down but that's ok.