dwtjr3

I agree with the 2v thing. I would love to build a rediculous 2v that will smoke most 4v's

Moonshine

Buuuut a 4v with the same mods is still going to outrun the 2v...

Kerns

Yes there is a lot more to switch over. The ECU and wiring harness being the biggest part, however most of that will already be disconnected while doing the heads/timing cover. In terms of cost, yes a 4v heads/cam car would cost more than the same 2v setup. However, stock 4v heads/cam/intake will probably cost about the same, maybe slightly cheaper then stage 2 2v heads/cam.

zero2005

2v's are fun i cant wait to get my car assembled and on the dyno......

Xemeth

OP, I did this swap with my 2v. If you are serious about doing it, I have a bunch of the parts minus the heads and intake to do this swap just sitting around. I did the 4v swap and got bored with it and took the whole motor out for another project (which I'll post about in a few days). Off the top of my head I have:

-Coils
-Valve covers
-Exhaust manifolds
-Stock 01 cams
-All chains and gears (primary and secondary)

I think I might have other things but I'd have to check in the garage.

You'll also need:

-Alternator
-Coolant crossover
-T-stat housing
-Timing cover


And you don't have to get a new harness. You just have to extend a few wires, and extend and reverse the polarity of the harness going to the coils. And you'll need a new PCM.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask. If you're interested in the stuff I have, let me know. I'll make you a good deal if you get it all out of my garage lol.

boduke0220

i say get some modmax rods and pistons and leave the top end the way it is. then up the boost when ya get the chance. but out of your 2 choices, do the 2v heads/cams

Drag Racer Dave

What about the bottom end? Is it already been built right i.e. forged? If not, you put to much pressure on top you might blow out the bottom end.

Most stage II heads require a notch in the piston so the valve doesn't do it for you. That would be a con to a stage II 2v head if you still have stock pistons.

As I recall when I was looking at doing a 4v swap (which I nixed) that you can use the same computer and wiring harness if you put in the adapter plates to take out the variable port controls. Can anyone confirm that?

Just a few random thoughts

zero2005

it doesnt look like he has forged bottom end, as his numbers in his sig are still under the 420-450 "stock bottom end" limit.

from what i've read, the problem with PTV (piston to valve) clearance is mostly a problem with going too high a lift cam, and still using the stock valves. different valves can be used to alleviate this. MHS uses stock valves modified so they have a smaller lip on them, and are good with non-notched pistons up to a stage 2 cam IIRC. most people never really need more than a stage 2 cam, altho every cam is different - MHS's stage 2s are probably different than say MMR's.

i dunno why you would spend all that money for a 2v to 4v swap with a stock boosted bottom end. i guess you'd be able to drop the boost and the same numbers, but why not at that point just have your 2v's ported then drop any extra cash that you'd spend on a swap into the bank for a shortblock or spend it on an assembly and have a local shop do it... N/A it'd be different since you want as much flow as possible.

getting over that 400 hump is gunna be expensive either way tho.

school boy

heres a complete write up for the guys that are curious about doing it
https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l...n-a-96-gt.html

Kerns

Well, a quick update. I ended up getting some Stage 2 heads, looking for a set of stage 2 blower cams currently. The reason I am doing the top end without the bottom end built is for 2 reasons. First and foremost, I don't have the money set aside to forge my bottom end yet. However, I do have enough to do heads/cams. At any rate, I wouldn't do the heads if I didn't have so many miles on the car as is. The second reason is that the heads are OEM factory and at this point the tolerances are way off just from how long they have been on the car. I am needing to do head gaskets anyway and the heads will be off. To get my heads resurfaced and get a valve job done would cost me around 400-500$ anyway.

I ended up finding some stage 2 heads for 600$ so I will actually be helping keep my bottom end alive with these heads because I won't be upping the boost any. So I will be making the same/slightly more power on less boost. I can also sell my stock heads and pretty much break even on what it would have cost me to refresh mine. In the end, I get an upgrade that later on down the line when I forge the bottom end I will be able to just up the boost and go straight from 400rwhp to 600+ range.