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Carbon fiber cobra R & trunk lid.

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Old 03-28-2011, 12:13 AM
  #21  
vargas
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Originally Posted by sxynerd
Don't be gay. You're not saving enough weight to matter to look that stupid. Your in SanD. so you're not going to make enough of a heat difference with going for a CF hood over a Fiberglass one.

Heck even if you were in 29stumps or Barstow, it wouldn't make enough of a difference. CF is black, you're car is white. Get a nice resin/FG hood paint it white and no matter what is done to your car, you wont have any issues.

Although I am assuming there's nothing done to your car that is so extravagant because you're in the Emissions Hell capital. (Next Maryland of course)
The whole emissions BS is what's stopping me from getting a full exhaust system. Cat-less of course.
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:24 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by turbo232
dont use cruizinconcepts. they do a carbon overlay over fiberglass. it's all for looks. if you want do a www.VISracing.com hood and trunk. they are actual carbon fiber and not fiberglass with a single layer. i am getting their trunk lid for 2 reasons, i want wingless and is weighs about half of what the stock one does.
The funny part is, if you knew anything about weight... you would want all you can get in the fear of your car. Your taking away weight from the wrong end.
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Old 03-28-2011, 02:07 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by vargas
The whole emissions BS is what's stopping me from getting a full exhaust system. Cat-less of course.
You're doing CF for the ricer reasons. I could understand if you completely gutted your interior and wanted to up your P/W ratio but you're not. Just go with Fiberglass. It's cheaper and in many cases more durable.
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:54 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by H0SS302
The funny part is, if you knew anything about weight... you would want all you can get in the fear of your car. Your taking away weight from the wrong end.
if you are going in a straight line only. taking weight off any part will improve performance. besides, i have a convertible, it's ****ing heavy already. what you said might be a Bladerunner moment. if you are relocating weight in a RWD car it needs to move back, if you are taking out weight it can come from anywhere.
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:59 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by turbo232
if you are going in a straight line only. taking weight off any part will improve performance. besides, i have a convertible, it's ****ing heavy already. what you said might be a Bladerunner moment. if you are relocating weight in a RWD car it needs to move back, if you are taking out weight it can come from anywhere.
LOL go do the math... and tell em taking weight off the rear doesnt HURT your f/r weight distribution ratio. Noob. The goal of any performance car is to get as close to 50/50 as possible, as that will be the most balanced. Taking weight off the rear of a car that is already damn near 60/40 is NOT the right way to go.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:09 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by H0SS302
LOL go do the math... and tell em taking weight off the rear doesnt HURT your f/r weight distribution ratio. Noob. The goal of any performance car is to get as close to 50/50 as possible, as that will be the most balanced. Taking weight off the rear of a car that is already damn near 60/40 is NOT the right way to go.
50/50 isn't even the best. it's more like 45/55. go dont go caling people noobs when you have no idea what they know. i know guys who will take an RX-8 which stock has your "perfect" 50/50 and set the engne back 3 inches while moving the battery to the right rear passenger floorboard t try for more rear bias. most mid-engine cars try for 45/55 because it works better. also, if you take 10 pounds off the front and 10 pounds off the rear the car will perform better than someone taking 20 off the only the front or rear.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:18 AM
  #27  
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LOL ok guy. In this case, your not getting anything from taking weight off the rear. Taking 20lbs from the front will give you a better f/r distribution than taking 20lbs away form the car. Taking weight off the front of the CG of the mustang is the best way to make it really handle balanced. Taking weight from both the front/rear will help your car be FASTER, but not necessarily handle better. Again, do the actual math, then come back and talk about it.

In my case adding the IRS helped out tremendously because ya I added weight to the car, but I added more to the back, so it made up for the huge split in % difference.

Why do you think moving the battery back to the rear of the car helps so much... your taking it from the front and putting more in the rear. Go do the math and see WHY this actually helps. Taking weight away equally from both the front/rear of the vehicle GC will just keep the f/r distribution the same. You have to take away weight from the problem area to help the problem, or shift the weight.

Last edited by H0SS302; 03-28-2011 at 10:27 AM.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:33 AM
  #28  
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you are talking about going in a straight line, i am not. drag racing makes me bored, i would rather go and do a open track event. in road racing you want a sligt rear bias with as much weight in between the wheels as possible. if i were to relocate my battery it would be in the right rear floorboard or the right rear seat well.

edit: another thing is light wheels. my rear wheels with tires are a good 5 pounds lighter than most people on this forums front wheels and tires.

Last edited by turbo232; 03-28-2011 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:39 AM
  #29  
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Wow can you NOT read? Im not talking about drag racing at all. lol. Good luck getting to anything under a 51-52/49-48 in a mustang without completely gutting it, and weighting it properly. For a street car, that sees the twisties, about as good as you can do is shift all the weight you can from the front to the rear and remove as much crap from the front as you can. You can put the battery anywhere you wish, especially in a convertible. There is plenty of room for it rear of the CG.

When I did all the calculations, It was pretty damn difficult to achieve a 50/50 from anything streetable, that I would consider safe to drive on a road anyways.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:44 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by H0SS302
Wow can you NOT read? Im not talking about drag racing at all. lol. Good luck getting to anything under a 51-52/49-48 in a mustang without completely gutting it, and weighting it properly. For a street car, that sees the twisties, about as good as you can do is shift all the weight you can from the front to the rear and remove as much crap from the front as you can. You can put the battery anywhere you wish, especially in a convertible. There is plenty of room for it rear of the CG.

When I did all the calculations, It was pretty damn difficult to achieve a 50/50 from anything streetable, that I would consider safe to drive on a road anyways.
did you think outside the box? or did you use the factory location for the engine and trans? move the front wheel forward 1.5 inches and the engine back 2 inches. it makes a huge difference, especially with an IRS car.
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