4r70w build thread
09-20-2011, 06:16 PM
#1
4r70w build thread
Well I dont really remember seeing one of these before, so I'm gonna try and make a really vague one. I wont be going into much detail because if you need to know exact directions/see pictures for everything you prolly shouldn't be attempting to rebuild your auto. but anyways here goes nothing...
got my used trans last night and got it all torn down on my lunch hour at work today.
first thing I did was remove the trans pan, trans filter, then the valve body. all the 8mm head bolts on the valve body are what hold it down, dont mess with the 10mm ones. after they're removed it pulls right off, but beware more fluid will come out...
picture with the pan/filter removed
next up you'll see 4 circular areas, 3 of which have snap rings holding them down. the one closest to the front that is under the valve body you will need to compress with a tool to take the clip off, all the others you can push down on them with something and remove the clips and gently let them up. keep everything together as there's lots of different springs/such and it can get confusing.
I've already taken all of the accumulators out but you can see where they're at atleast in this picture...
and this is all of them set in the pan in the same way as they came out...
next flip it on its side and remove the sensors in the side of the trans, you'll have to remove them to get it all apart.
now the fun begins. first thing is to remove the trans pump. there's 6 10mm bolts I believe holding it in, remove those and you still wont be able to pull it out. but where the pump bolts were you can see that 2 of the holes opposite each other are threaded, so you can screw in a larger bolt than what you took out and that will "push" the pump out. i believe these bolts are 10mm threads. once you get that out you'll see all the guts.
start removing thing piece by piece but put it all in order so it's easier to put back together. once you get down to a certain part there will be a large snap ring holding in one of the assemblies. this is easy to remove with just a large screwdriver. then that assembly will come out easily, however once you get to the next band there will be another snap ring, this ones even easier to remove and you do not need to put this one back in when reassembling. after that rings out just keep pulling it all out piece by piece until it's empty.
quick picture of it all laid out on the back of the work bench
Tomorrow I'll try and take some better pictures of all the sub assemblies and such.
as far as what I'm doing to it I have ordered a rebuild kit from alan at dirty dog. It's a seal/gasket kit, new steels and frictions, new overdrive accumulator and band, spiral retaining ring, shift kit, and a few other odds and ends. I also purchased all the parts for the tail shaft lube mod. I'll try and get pictures of doing all that and reassembling it, but usually when i say that it never happens because i dont like stopping when i get started, but we'll see lol. All that from Alan was $443 shipped, he said it will handle 600+whp.
I ordered the kit today but reassembly wont start until next week as it'll prolly take that long for me to get it. so wont be any updates until then.
got my used trans last night and got it all torn down on my lunch hour at work today.
first thing I did was remove the trans pan, trans filter, then the valve body. all the 8mm head bolts on the valve body are what hold it down, dont mess with the 10mm ones. after they're removed it pulls right off, but beware more fluid will come out...
picture with the pan/filter removed
next up you'll see 4 circular areas, 3 of which have snap rings holding them down. the one closest to the front that is under the valve body you will need to compress with a tool to take the clip off, all the others you can push down on them with something and remove the clips and gently let them up. keep everything together as there's lots of different springs/such and it can get confusing.
I've already taken all of the accumulators out but you can see where they're at atleast in this picture...
and this is all of them set in the pan in the same way as they came out...
next flip it on its side and remove the sensors in the side of the trans, you'll have to remove them to get it all apart.
now the fun begins. first thing is to remove the trans pump. there's 6 10mm bolts I believe holding it in, remove those and you still wont be able to pull it out. but where the pump bolts were you can see that 2 of the holes opposite each other are threaded, so you can screw in a larger bolt than what you took out and that will "push" the pump out. i believe these bolts are 10mm threads. once you get that out you'll see all the guts.
start removing thing piece by piece but put it all in order so it's easier to put back together. once you get down to a certain part there will be a large snap ring holding in one of the assemblies. this is easy to remove with just a large screwdriver. then that assembly will come out easily, however once you get to the next band there will be another snap ring, this ones even easier to remove and you do not need to put this one back in when reassembling. after that rings out just keep pulling it all out piece by piece until it's empty.
quick picture of it all laid out on the back of the work bench
Tomorrow I'll try and take some better pictures of all the sub assemblies and such.
as far as what I'm doing to it I have ordered a rebuild kit from alan at dirty dog. It's a seal/gasket kit, new steels and frictions, new overdrive accumulator and band, spiral retaining ring, shift kit, and a few other odds and ends. I also purchased all the parts for the tail shaft lube mod. I'll try and get pictures of doing all that and reassembling it, but usually when i say that it never happens because i dont like stopping when i get started, but we'll see lol. All that from Alan was $443 shipped, he said it will handle 600+whp.
I ordered the kit today but reassembly wont start until next week as it'll prolly take that long for me to get it. so wont be any updates until then.
09-21-2011, 01:10 PM
#8
Go Texas!!!
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 4,613
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...on/page7.shtml
According to that article in 1998 the output shaft material was upgraded to a stronger material.
Which could be why you were able to break your pre 1998 shaft at such low power levels.
According to that article in 1998 the output shaft material was upgraded to a stronger material.
Which could be why you were able to break your pre 1998 shaft at such low power levels.
09-21-2011, 01:28 PM
#9
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NJ / MA
Posts: 1,337
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...on/page7.shtml
According to that article in 1998 the output shaft material was upgraded to a stronger material.
Which could be why you were able to break your pre 1998 shaft at such low power levels.
According to that article in 1998 the output shaft material was upgraded to a stronger material.
Which could be why you were able to break your pre 1998 shaft at such low power levels.
09-21-2011, 02:11 PM
#10
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NC
Posts: 1,956
Yea that ENTIRE article is essentially the 4R70W bible. Written by Jerry Wroblewski who co-engineered the 4R70W @ Ford. He came up with the "J-mod" hence the name. Last I checked he works @ SCT now.