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What replaced my Mustang. 56K warning.

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Old 12-02-2011, 06:57 AM
  #11  
BlackMage
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the exterior looks so rough! but yet the interior looks pretty clean, im lost here haha. and personally, shoulda left the flames on it
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Old 12-02-2011, 10:12 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by JC316
Even a cam doesn't help the power range all that much, more like to 5500RPM, but it's still a huge improvement. Once I get more money, I will toss a cam and some 42lbs injectors in it.

T5 is an option, but it's not a very good one. A stock T5 can't handle the 4K lbs weight and the torque that the motor produces, so it would have to be something like a TKO. Even then there is a problem, the shifter is in the wrong spot, so an extender would have to be made. No, I would go with the new magnum S197 T56 and some 3.73's.

3.73's wouldn't work with it the way it sits, I barely have any traction as it sits, plus at 70MPH, I am cruising 2400RPM.
if a built T5 can last behind my 95's motor, itll be fine in yours lol. i had an APW gearset with 2.95 1st and .79 5th gear with 3.73's and it was decent on the highway, not great but you had an excuse to not go over 70 lol

could always look into porting the heads and the blower/lower manifold as well, thatll get you a good deal more power... too bad no one makes aluminum heads for the V6's...
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:47 AM
  #13  
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I've also always liked that body style!

I like it with dark colors better, but bright Atlantic is a very good substitute imo
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Old 12-02-2011, 12:01 PM
  #14  
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just curious though, why not take off the bumpers, hood, rockers and decklid when priming and painting it all? Looks like you're spending a lot of time on it, why not take the extra couple steps to make the paint that much better?
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:14 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by BlackMage
the exterior looks so rough! but yet the interior looks pretty clean, im lost here haha. and personally, shoulda left the flames on it
Yeah, some asshat got a hold of it and destroyed the outside. Fortunately the inside survived. Those flames were god awful and like a neon sign that says "GIVE ME A TICKET!".

Originally Posted by sn95_331_GT_ yellow
if a built T5 can last behind my 95's motor, itll be fine in yours lol. i had an APW gearset with 2.95 1st and .79 5th gear with 3.73's and it was decent on the highway, not great but you had an excuse to not go over 70 lol

could always look into porting the heads and the blower/lower manifold as well, thatll get you a good deal more power... too bad no one makes aluminum heads for the V6's...
The built part is whats killing me. For the price of a built T5 and making a shifter extension, I might as well get a T56 and be done with it. I live in Texas man, highway travel is all that I do and 70+MPH is a daily thing for me.

Originally Posted by BlackMage
just curious though, why not take off the bumpers, hood, rockers and decklid when priming and painting it all? Looks like you're spending a lot of time on it, why not take the extra couple steps to make the paint that much better?
Honestly, I was running out of room in the garage. The hood was pretty easy to prime with it on the car, same goes for the trunk. The bumpers again are easy enough to paint with it on. The rocker panels are covered by the lower body kit, so I couldn't give a crap. The only reason the doors came off is because the jambs needed to be sprayed. Speaking of those doors, you wouldn't believe how much those dang things weigh, glass and all, over 110lbs each.
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:17 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by JC316

Honestly, I was running out of room in the garage. The hood was pretty easy to prime with it on the car, same goes for the trunk. The bumpers again are easy enough to paint with it on. The rocker panels are covered by the lower body kit, so I couldn't give a crap. The only reason the doors came off is because the jambs needed to be sprayed. Speaking of those doors, you wouldn't believe how much those dang things weigh, glass and all, over 110lbs each.
I just figured you could take all that stuff off and get behind them so you wouldnt have any hard lines where they meet or if for some reason they wern't lined up in the future, you wouldnt see the old paint. But i hear ya not having enough room is a pia for any project. gonna replace the door pins as long as you're in there?
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:23 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by BlackMage
I just figured you could take all that stuff off and get behind them so you wouldnt have any hard lines where they meet or if for some reason they wern't lined up in the future, you wouldnt see the old paint. But i hear ya not having enough room is a pia for any project. gonna replace the door pins as long as you're in there?
Yeah, I am mainly fighting the weather right now. I have two heat sources in my garage, both of which use fire. Fire and paint fumes = bad, so I have to use a diesel heater to get the garage warm, then turn it off and shoot. If it were warmer, I would have taken everything off.

I was going to change the pins, till I read that you have to remove the dash to do it. So that little project will be saved for when my heater core finally bites it.
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:40 PM
  #18  
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holy crap, that sounds like a heck of a project for a couple $4 parts haha. thats rediculous
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:48 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by BlackMage
holy crap, that sounds like a heck of a project for a couple $4 parts haha. thats rediculous
Yep, that is exactly what I said. For some stupid reason Ford decided to use nuts on the backside of the bolts.
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Old 12-02-2011, 02:00 PM
  #20  
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cant you just replace the pins? or do you have to replace the whole hinge assembly?
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