2000VertGT

Was runnin in a poker run today, runner her pretty hard. Drivin a back road at sensible speeds when she started running real rough, I look down at my wideband and its reading 10, all air with no fuel. When I came to a stop she shut off. It starts fine but if I dont give it some gas it just dies right away. So I limped home rather than finishing the run. I get to the house and unpluged the MAF sensor and it started and idled as it normally would when cold but I look behind me and it was blowing this real fine black $hit looks like fine coffee grains out the exhaust. Turned of off, rolled it into the driveway and fired back up and didn't see anymore of the black stuff coming out so I took it around the block. Seemed to drive normal but when I shifted into 2nd the revs stayed at 2k until I tapped the throttle and it came back down to 1k. So, is it a bad MAP sensor? what was the black crap?
BTW, I am running a v2 s/c with just supporting mods.

cliffyk

Well "10" is rich, the opposite of "all air with no fuel", and there is no MAP sensor...

What is the wideband system telling you now? High fuel pressure, or dead front O2 sensors could cause what you describe...

WannaBeGearHead

10 is super rich, not lean

2000VertGT

i always get the wideband numbers backwards. Anywho, i had some time to mess with it when i got home and here is what i discovered: Took the mass airflow sensor off and cleaned it, put it back on and had the same problem, at first it sounded like it was cammed with a big lope and then it stalled everytime i wouldn't give it any gas. So I unplugged the mass airflow sensor and started it again, it idled fine, when i took it around the block it accelerated very slow and rough and my wideband is reading between 12 and 13.5 so still pretty rich. So should i go ahead and head to advance auto and pick up a sensor?
edit: also would it be fine to drive it with the sensor unplugged to get me to work?

cliffyk

With the MAF unplugged (or failed) the PCM uses the Load with Failed MAF table, and uses throttle position and rpm to look up a default load value.

If the MAF had failed nothing should have changed when you unplugged it.

Check the fuel rail pressure before buying a MAF...

2000VertGT

Alright, so checked everything I could think of and decided to buy a map sensor, put it in and now it runs better but its still idling like it has a loped cam and when its hot everytime I come to a stop it either dies or comes really close to dying. Also, its still running really rich. Is there any possibility of it losing its tune? when I unplugged the battery, the cables were both really loose, is it possible for them to loose connection while driving and lose its tune? What other reasons would cause it to run rich? I had the codes pulled and the only ones that came up were the rear o2 sensors (because there aren't any)

WannaBeGearHead

You bought a MAP sensor? Where did you find that?

2000VertGT

mass airflow, some people call it map, some maf. I dunno why they call it map

cliffyk

It's because they don't know what they are talking about, they are completely different devices.

A MAF is a Mass Air Flow meter, which measures the mass (weight here on earth) of the air flowing through it. Combined with an engine's displacement per cylinder the engine's load can be calculated.

A MAP is a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor, which measures the absolute pressure (as opposed to gauge pressure)¹ of the air in the manifold. This value, along with engine speed and IAT, can also be used to estimate air flow into the engine--aka speed-density operation.

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¹ - Absolute pressure is the pressure in a vessel as compared to a prefect vacuum. Gauge pressure is pressure referred to ambient pressure, 14.696 psi at 68°F, at sea level per the NIST definition.

2000VertGT

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCa...5019-00_lg.jpg i replaced this