Brake Job 2000 GT mustang Help
12-02-2012, 02:34 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 30
Brake Job 2000 GT mustang Help
Hello Folks,
I've done brakes on lots of different cars in my life, just to let you know I'm not a complete newbie.. I don't drive my mustang much and have just hit a little over 30,000 miles on it and am just about ready to dive in and do the brakes all the way around. I've read where on a 2000 GT Mustang you need a special tool to turn the brake pistons in to compress the pistons... I am used to the old school where you remove half the fluid in the reservoir and squeeze the pistons together using a old brake pad against the piston and pliers or C-Clamp. I was hoping to get some feedback from those who have done brakes on this year and the steps involved.
- Do I still need to remove half the fluid from the reservoir?
I believe I would even if you have to screw in the piston with a tool you are still compressing the fluid in the lines which will push the fluid up through the reservoir.
So to avoid fluid pushing out I would think this would still need to be done.
- Can you tell me where I can get the tool for my 2000 GT? I have seen universal kits for like 40.00 bucks on amazon, but have read where they have tools that just fit on a ratchet like a socket.. any suggestions here?
- Do you need the tool for both the front and the back brakes?
- I am just planning on having my stock rotors turned and getting a set of some ceramic pads at Autozone or Pepboys.. Is this ok, or are there better ones I should be focusing on? I just use my car for general driving, not racing.
I'm planning on tossing on a set of deep dish 18 inch cobra R wheels 285s , but think it is wise to do the brakes first..
Thanks for any help you guys can provide...
I've done brakes on lots of different cars in my life, just to let you know I'm not a complete newbie.. I don't drive my mustang much and have just hit a little over 30,000 miles on it and am just about ready to dive in and do the brakes all the way around. I've read where on a 2000 GT Mustang you need a special tool to turn the brake pistons in to compress the pistons... I am used to the old school where you remove half the fluid in the reservoir and squeeze the pistons together using a old brake pad against the piston and pliers or C-Clamp. I was hoping to get some feedback from those who have done brakes on this year and the steps involved.
- Do I still need to remove half the fluid from the reservoir?
I believe I would even if you have to screw in the piston with a tool you are still compressing the fluid in the lines which will push the fluid up through the reservoir.
So to avoid fluid pushing out I would think this would still need to be done.
- Can you tell me where I can get the tool for my 2000 GT? I have seen universal kits for like 40.00 bucks on amazon, but have read where they have tools that just fit on a ratchet like a socket.. any suggestions here?
- Do you need the tool for both the front and the back brakes?
- I am just planning on having my stock rotors turned and getting a set of some ceramic pads at Autozone or Pepboys.. Is this ok, or are there better ones I should be focusing on? I just use my car for general driving, not racing.
I'm planning on tossing on a set of deep dish 18 inch cobra R wheels 285s , but think it is wise to do the brakes first..
Thanks for any help you guys can provide...
12-02-2012, 02:58 PM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: South FL
Posts: 8,540
Front you can just press back in (like normal). Keep the top off of the brake fluid res, but I've never had to drain any out while pushing them in.
The rears 'screw' back in, you can't just press them in or you'll mess them up. There is a tool you can get, but if you are handy with tools, I just use a pair of needle nose pliars to do the trick.
If you are only on the street, basic pads will work just fine for you.
The rears 'screw' back in, you can't just press them in or you'll mess them up. There is a tool you can get, but if you are handy with tools, I just use a pair of needle nose pliars to do the trick.
If you are only on the street, basic pads will work just fine for you.
12-02-2012, 04:10 PM
#3
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 118
Someone on another forum once mentioned that it wasn't good for the ABS system to force fluid backward through the system.
Instead, he suggests that you crack open the bleeder valve to allow the fluid from the caliper(s) to exit.
Not a bad idea, really.
Instead, he suggests that you crack open the bleeder valve to allow the fluid from the caliper(s) to exit.
Not a bad idea, really.
12-02-2012, 04:19 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 30
Thank you both for your response...
I have read where some people just use needlenose to turn those pistons in...
I will have to give that a try myself.
As for the cracking a screw. I have also read the same thing, where some say it is not wise to squeeze the contaminated fluid back into the system.. I think I will crack the bleeder when compressing the piston too. Unless anyone has any reason why that would not be the right thing to do..
Thanks again for all your help...
I have read where some people just use needlenose to turn those pistons in...
I will have to give that a try myself.
As for the cracking a screw. I have also read the same thing, where some say it is not wise to squeeze the contaminated fluid back into the system.. I think I will crack the bleeder when compressing the piston too. Unless anyone has any reason why that would not be the right thing to do..
Thanks again for all your help...
12-03-2012, 07:05 PM
#6
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ca
Posts: 80
Just rent the right tool from you local parts house. Mine after I brought it back was free. It is so much faster and easier to use the right tool for the job then trying to mickey mouse it. Cracking the bleeder when compressing the pistons is a good idea as long as you attach a small clear hose to drain it into.
12-05-2012, 07:11 AM
#8
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ca
Posts: 80
Yeah but you have to realize these vehicles are getting up there in age now and some have never had the rears changed. With that said I have ran into a few that have been very stubborn and needle nose pliers wold have never worked. The tool has worked on every single set of rears I have done and did them with ease.
01-04-2013, 11:16 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 30
I completed the rear brakes..
I bought the slotted piston tool at my local auto store for like 8 bucks.
It was universal and I just had to grind off 2 of the tabs diagnally and it worked fine.
It was a bit of a pain in (_|_) to screw in the screws with the caliper hanging freely.
I loosened the bleeder and screwed in each piston. I found that you also had to kind of push pretty firmly as you turned the piston otherwise it seemed to just turn freely without screwing in... Maybe I was imagining things, but that is what it appeared.. In any case it is all back together and working fine now.. Thanks for your advise.
I bought the slotted piston tool at my local auto store for like 8 bucks.
It was universal and I just had to grind off 2 of the tabs diagnally and it worked fine.
It was a bit of a pain in (_|_) to screw in the screws with the caliper hanging freely.
I loosened the bleeder and screwed in each piston. I found that you also had to kind of push pretty firmly as you turned the piston otherwise it seemed to just turn freely without screwing in... Maybe I was imagining things, but that is what it appeared.. In any case it is all back together and working fine now.. Thanks for your advise.