muahaha new best quarter mile time!
#22
keep in mind the alternator checks good under load, the only reason i started suspecting it was flickering battery light when railing on it at night, so its likely that if the light came on in the middle of the day on the dyno that it wasnt very bright and there fore unseen especially when dealing with a whole slew of more important information on the spot.
A friend of mine was having some high end fuel issues and a flickering battery light on his Termi. He relpaced the belt and tensioner and it fixed the battery light flickering, but soon after sold the car so I can't say about the fuel issue. He said it never felt weak, but fuel cut out was there at high RPM's. I'm not sure if this would help you, just throwing it out there. Good luck.
#23
well i would think the problem is the computer doesnt see the actual fpdm output voltage, because if it did i would think the computer would say something in a code like reduced fuel pressure or something. in any case he doesn't set up with the laptop in the car, he has one in the office, so he does his runs goes in and makes changes then uploads it to the car, so trying to set that stuff up would take a while. he did hook a fancy scanner too it and couldn't see anything. but much more than that and hed start charging me.
When i installed the sc, i bought a new tensioner before i finished bolting it up, and that belt was brand new. the alternator gets hotter than the motor, really fast too, and starts to drop voltage as soon as it heats up (13.8 down from 14.3 after 5 minutes of idling), so i think whats happening is its dying but not dead, and thats why it can pass the load test, but the fuel pump probably requires a full 12.5-12.8 volts to maintain full power and if it doesn't get that poof. Before i replaced the fpdm i ran out of fuel in the top of 3rd with 10.5 volts from the fpdm at 330 hp, so it doesn't surprise me that it wouldnt take much loss in voltage without a boost a pump for me to not get the flow i need to make more than 350. thats one of the reason people do the wire mod to the fpdm is to pick up a small 4-6% increase in volts, but it can make a difference between getting your power or not. So i have the alternator coming tomorrow, ill change it out and retest the car this weekend and cross my fingers. But then it goes back down because i have to send the weapon x cops in for an adjustment, they were hard to put on and i broke one checking the plugs so im having them loosened a bit, so the car will be down a week plus, which will give me the time to fix my bad rack bushings with the solid mm ones i just bought.
so with any luck it will solve the issue, and in 2 weeks or so i can retest the car at the track, and maybe if my tuner is nice he will send me a new tune with a 6200rpm red line and i can get my real power instead of my current power. If i do manage that, 11s should be cake, since i imagine 30-50rwhp should easily get me another 3-5mph and that .4 that i need for 11s without special wheels and suspension
When i installed the sc, i bought a new tensioner before i finished bolting it up, and that belt was brand new. the alternator gets hotter than the motor, really fast too, and starts to drop voltage as soon as it heats up (13.8 down from 14.3 after 5 minutes of idling), so i think whats happening is its dying but not dead, and thats why it can pass the load test, but the fuel pump probably requires a full 12.5-12.8 volts to maintain full power and if it doesn't get that poof. Before i replaced the fpdm i ran out of fuel in the top of 3rd with 10.5 volts from the fpdm at 330 hp, so it doesn't surprise me that it wouldnt take much loss in voltage without a boost a pump for me to not get the flow i need to make more than 350. thats one of the reason people do the wire mod to the fpdm is to pick up a small 4-6% increase in volts, but it can make a difference between getting your power or not. So i have the alternator coming tomorrow, ill change it out and retest the car this weekend and cross my fingers. But then it goes back down because i have to send the weapon x cops in for an adjustment, they were hard to put on and i broke one checking the plugs so im having them loosened a bit, so the car will be down a week plus, which will give me the time to fix my bad rack bushings with the solid mm ones i just bought.
so with any luck it will solve the issue, and in 2 weeks or so i can retest the car at the track, and maybe if my tuner is nice he will send me a new tune with a 6200rpm red line and i can get my real power instead of my current power. If i do manage that, 11s should be cake, since i imagine 30-50rwhp should easily get me another 3-5mph and that .4 that i need for 11s without special wheels and suspension
Last edited by Bman2000; 03-07-2013 at 12:52 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Displ8cement
Texas Regional Chapter
0
08-13-2015 12:37 PM