Nomad8888

So, I'm learning fast about this car. Mine's got just over 108k on the clock and the car is rapidly falling apart. My current issues:

steering wheel shake under braking
leaky transmission
leaky ABS unit
leaky motor (oil)
leaky heater core

This car was tip top when I got her in October. The engine starts and runs fine, it shifts good too, but I was wondering if any of you had noticed when certain systems failed how many miles where on your car. I ask so I can look out for them and perhaps take care of them before they go.

Thanks in advance!

DeathRattle

I don't think there is any specific way to tell or predict the mileage that certain parts will start to fail. In general, a well maintained vehicle will last a good while...that's talking about major things. Small things will tend to need replacing at unpredictable intervals. Your steering wheel shake during braking is probably due to the rotors tho.

Seabee1993

The steering wheel shake is most likely warped rotors, quit waiting to brake at the last minute.

As to an answer to your question, it just happens. I do a monthly once over. Check my fluid levels, tire pressure, etc

UPRSharad

On a 12 year old car, it's a good idea to carefully inspect any rubber bushings on the suspension. The rubber can deteriorate regardless of mileage. Aftermarket replacement/upgrades are inexpensive.

uberstang1

my car is a 97 and chasis currently has 150k on it, never had an issue with any of that stuff. All depends if the car was taken care off, how often it sat, where it sat, weather conditions, so far so fourth

Nomad8888

Yeah, I've got that. I'm going to take care of that soon, actually. As for the other issues, nothing is gigantic, just annoying. I'm suspicious this car might have gone for a long time sitting in a garage without being driven. That's probably part of the reason she looks so good, but the seals are crap.

UPRSharad

Honest to goodness, I swear that hurts cars more than beating on them every day. I put my old Mustang in storage for about 5 years. It was a DISASTER when I got it out to start driving again. Like you said. Seals, gaskets, and piston rings were my biggest issues.

StanglovR02

my old girl is holding up well with 94k and seen plenty of winters... Replaced two idler pullies today, took 5mins and $40 cant complain. Seems to be a main seal leak but who cares. Watch the fuild level and keep up on maintance it'll run well. 4.6L are pretty tough engines (minus the heads). but like everything time takes it toll and then a rebuild is in order!!!

Sonic Mustang

I've got 32,300 miles on my 2004 Mach 1.

Original battery failed in 28 months. The warranty replacement has been hooked up to a Deltran Battery Tender whenever the car is parked at home and 6 1/2 years later, it still load tests at 97% capacity.


Non Mach 1 specific failure: Driver's side power window failed in the up position at 31,000 miles and then started to work again at 31,500 miles. This is probably the dreaded dead spot in the electric motor - wiring checked OK. I didn't whack in door to jar it, normal driving and shutting the door probably got it going again.

Non Mach 1 specific failure: Crack in driver's side door cup (plastic trim that houses power window and lock switches and where your grab the door to close it.) The crack is small and invisible and probably caused by a missing steel spring clip which allowed the cup to move laterally. Since the clip wasn't found inside the door, it was probably not installed at the factory.

Mach 1 specific failure: Partial collapse of driver's seat bolster - bottom outside. I noticed this starting to happen when the car was only 3 or 4 months old and filed a warranty claim. My dealer subcontracts upholstery work, so I took the replacements seat bottom foam to the shop where we soon determined that the factory foam was really soft and was starting to collapse from me of getting into the seat and sliding over the bolster.

Instead of using the factory replacement seat foam, I asked the upholsterer if he had any firmer foam. After selecting the firmest foam in the shop, he copied the factory seat bottom. After 30,000 miles, the driver's seat bottom is holding it's shape perfectly.


Mach 1 specific failure: Rubber trim on passenger side C-pillar cover loose. This is the rubber strip covering the edge of the cover that is next to the rear quarter glass. The rubber looks new, but if I'm not careful when cleaning the windows, I can push the bottom portion between the window and C-pillar cover. Then, I have to use a small flat bladed screw driver to fish out so I can push it over the edge of the cover. Replacement part unavailable and when it was, it only cam with the C-pillar cover which is unique to Bullitt and Mach 1.


Not bad for 9 years and 32,300 miles.


Along with oil changes, I've replaced the transmission and differential fluids once. Starting in 2007, I drain the cooling system once a year. I'm not doing a freeze plugs out flush. Just disconnect the lower radiator hose and drain, refilling with a 50/50 mix of Ford gold coolant and distilled water. (I don't remember the exact amount, but I think you can drain about half the system's capacity.)This is very easy to do and my plastic expansion tank is perfectly clean and coolant looks exactly like fresh 50/50.

I replace my brake fluid every two years using Ate Type 200 / Super Blue. Ford doesn't have brake fluid flushes listed in the service schedule.

I used the car this winter, but when I did store it, it was in a heated garage (I keep it at bout 40F) and connected to the Battery Tender as always. I started nthe car once per week, letting it idle for 20 minutes, then 3,000RPM for 30 seconds and 3 quick run ups to 4,500RPM to warm up the engine and get rid of the condensation in the exhaust system.

Nomad8888

It's something I've always heard and seen. I didn't think that was the issue with this car. I still love this little machine, just a wee discouraged. I will say (if I haven't already) In every Ford I've owned, I've had to replace the heater core. Makes me nuts because the dash has to come out and when that happens you run the risk of some random dash rattle.