Front lower control arm
I have a 2003 GT with 128,000 miles. I started to have problems when I would turn the steering wheel, and a loud squeaking noise would come from the front passenger side area. By using the oil syringe method into the ball joint boot, the noise went away. So that means the ball joint is bad. I do not want to press a new ball joint into the control arm, I just want to replace the whole control arm.
I don’t really want to spend $500+ on a new pair of Motorcraft arms. I’ve looked the usual names (Moog) and some (yikes) eBay Chinese cheap parts. What are some quality aftermarket control arms that are worth trying?
I don’t really want to spend $500+ on a new pair of Motorcraft arms. I’ve looked the usual names (Moog) and some (yikes) eBay Chinese cheap parts. What are some quality aftermarket control arms that are worth trying?
Control arms come with the ball joint, and they're somewhat easy to replace.
The ball joint does not have a stud with threads for a nut. It goes into a
knuckle that clamps it in place. I did two on a Chevy HHR, and it was easy.
I have used eBay control arms with no problems; Detroit Axle.
Do both sides though, not one...
The ball joint does not have a stud with threads for a nut. It goes into a
knuckle that clamps it in place. I did two on a Chevy HHR, and it was easy.
I have used eBay control arms with no problems; Detroit Axle.
Do both sides though, not one...
be cautious when unbolting the strut from the knuckle, the coil spring rests in the lower control arm and has a lot of tension. Use a floor jack to preload the side you are working on before attempting to lower or unbolt that knuckle/strut. Do NOT try to take the control arm bolts from the K-member off before releasing the spring tension. If it were me I'd just get a ball joint and replace it. Would be easier then wrestling the spring back in there
be cautious when unbolting the strut from the knuckle, the coil spring rests in the lower control arm and has a lot of tension. Use a floor jack to preload the side you are working on before attempting to lower or unbolt that knuckle/strut. Do NOT try to take the control arm bolts from the K-member off before releasing the spring tension. If it were me I'd just get a ball joint and replace it. Would be easier then wrestling the spring back in there
Also, sorry, the 2003 is different, sorry... They do have a threaded post with a nut on it.
You do not have to unbolt any strut hardware. Just the two bolts, and nut on the lower
control arm.
You do not have to unbolt the strut to remove the lower control arm!!!
https://youtu.be/1RQbr88NelY
Also, sorry, the 2003 is different, sorry... They do have a threaded post with a nut on it.
You do not have to unbolt any strut hardware. Just the two bolts, and nut on the lower
control arm.
https://youtu.be/1RQbr88NelY
Also, sorry, the 2003 is different, sorry... They do have a threaded post with a nut on it.
You do not have to unbolt any strut hardware. Just the two bolts, and nut on the lower
control arm.
also that video you posted is for a 60s mustang, so it is not the same exact process as a 94-04 mustang.. carry on....
Again. Tell me how the stupid strut has anything to do with the fact that the coil spring rests in the lower control arm? I already covered the strut/knuckle portion. Yes the strut can stay bolted to the knuckle. This has nothing to do with the coil spring being out of the equation. And that video is not accurate because there isn’t a coil spring involved. My post was simply a warning about the spring. A 03 mustang isn’t a stupid hhr and I can’t believe I’m bickering with someone completely missing the point of my original post.
Got it... The video came up on a 2003 mustang search...
Found this one...
https://youtu.be/ehfaV9L0b1A?t=94
Found this one...
https://youtu.be/ehfaV9L0b1A?t=94
That’s all. Have a nice day
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