Daniel60

I have the pullys and my butt dyno said 10 horsepower. Personally I really feel it. But if you want to worry what everybody else saids then don't do it. I like my pullys.[sm=smiley20.gif] It feels like its pulling more.

Sleeper05

then my jlt intake and dyno tune must have been good for 45+rwhp alone huh? im sry, but pullies are good for a solid 8-10rwhp in most cases, and anyone with them will back me up on that. plus, the driving feel under acceleration is dramatically improved. pullies were one of the best bang-for-the-buck mods i've done

lukoi66

My concern is that the UDP could harm the alternator, something I had not read or heard before.

But barring that, you know what....it's 239$, I'm sitting on a nice little nestegg from being in this ****hole country I'm in right now....so it's not too expensive to try really and seems to me alot more people swear by it for N/A cars than naysay it, so I think the consensus is in, I'll keep it in the package.

Thanks a ton for the opinions crew, I definitely learned alot more today.

ps. what do you guys think ballpark the final rwhp would be with the UDP, the LTH, Xpipes and Magnaflows installed, along with the CAI, SCT2 and custom tune (somewhere between really aggressive race tune and conservative daily driver tune, with 93 octane)? The DSR quoted me 315 which in all honesty seemed a bit low to me, but I'm a newb.

jaiasmit

I'm pushing 290 RWHP with just a CAI and 93 Octane tune. So I would think with all those mods you'd be looking at 325 to 330 RWHP. Keep in mind though that those numbers are really dependent on where you live (or where you get it dynoed). You have to factor in the heat and altitude. They make a big difference in your power numbers.

cekim

For my part, I would clarify that it is not a question of "harm" to the alternator - just something to consider that you are going to put more load on it... both with UDPs and Electric water pump... So, is it possible you could shorten its life? yeah? Is it going to blow up a week or a year after you do this? NO!

Personally, I would ignore the alternator unless you have big speakers and amps in the car... I would focus on the reduced water pump flow...

But frankly, I have not heard a lot of people complaining about cooling issues - but do be carefull

flewbyu

I have not had a dyno yet so I don't know what Im pushing. I ask/asked more questions about possible problems, install issues, hp before and after, etc, etc, so on and so on with every single mod just because I don't know. What I do know is that I can fill a difference in "kick or pull or something!" Dunno exactly how it works or why but I think it was worth it to me.

classj

Wrong place to find horsepower. If ford wanted the pulleys to spin slower and could have gotten away with it they would have done it.

Worst thing you could possibly do to an alternator is slow it down at idle. You need that alternator spinning at a proper RPM to keep output up.

And slowing down the water pump on a high performance automobile that has a well engineered cooling system is plain beatleheaded.

In 101 degree weather and 95% humidity last week, with the AC blasting and me fooling around with the car banging gears, the car was cool as a cucumber. Why exactly would I want to change that. For a couple more HP. I would rather have the higher capacity cooling system.

Slowing down the power steering pump may not be a bad thing to get rid of some of the boost. I think the GT500 is going to have wither a revised pump or pulley arrangment with the same rack to firm up the steering.

In certain areas I will agree that ford cheapens/ pacifies the car to either make it cheaper or more appealing to the public. But there is no reason why they would overdrive the accessories. They are being driven at the proper speed stock.

ScreamingYellow

If Ford wanted the engine to breathe more air they would have put a C&L on it and retuned it for more horsepower... I don't think that argument works for any mod IMO.

I have the exact same mods + UDP's and exact same tune as another owner on here. He put down 297 to the wheels, I put down 306. There is your 9hp to the wheels from the UDP's. I also put down about 12 more lbs of torque to the wheels. I think they are worth it.

classj

Not saying that you wont see a small horsepower increase. What I am saying that is considering the downsides, cost, and minimal gains, I dont see them as being something I would do myself IMO.

Slowing down an alternator is wrong, plain and simple. As is slowing down the water pump.

In efect you are handicapping your cooling and electrical systems. That is not worth 10 RWHP to me.

I dont quite see the relationship about the more agressive tune and the C&L and this. Fords reasons for not putting a CAI and tune on the car are much more involved than costs or HP.

Ford didnt design everthing on the car with costs in mind as their main goal. Lets give the engineers some credit here. I still say that factory engineers know more about car design than most of the aftermarket guys.

lukoi66

Well in this case, I'm going to try the UDP's and leave the water pump out of it. There have been a couple of suggestions on how to overcome the alternator problem should it start to arise and I think I can save up to allow that in the future budget. And so far after two years of street use, I haven't seen much in the way of complaints about dead alternators which seems like a pretty good indicator, given the popularity of UDP mods especially early on.

Wortha shot Thanks for the advice and heads up!