The cheapest way to put down around 325-350rwhp?
07-30-2006, 12:35 AM
#1
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The cheapest way to put down around 325-350rwhp?
l am just making a research.. l really cant afford to buy a supercharger and l am just wondering what would be the other options.. any help would be appriciated!
07-30-2006, 12:57 AM
#2
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RE: The cheapest way to put down around 325-350rwhp?
ORIGINAL: doodad
l am just making a research.. l really cant afford to buy a supercharger and l am just wondering what would be the other options.. any help would be appriciated!
l am just making a research.. l really cant afford to buy a supercharger and l am just wondering what would be the other options.. any help would be appriciated!
07-30-2006, 01:02 AM
#3
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RE: The cheapest way to put down around 325-350rwhp?
The cheapest way may just be with a supercharger.
The other way is to do a good CAI and tune which will get you near 300 hp at the tires.
Nitrous is always an option but more of a track aid than a street solution.
Headwork seems like it might be a nice option. But not completly worked out by the big tuner shops yet and always a pita since you have to tear into the top half of the motor.
Beyond that, I am still looking into what options are out there. I havent found much other than exhaust work which I am not convinced is the right place to look for power on these cars yet.
Right now, for this week at least, I am really happy with the way the car is running with the new intake and tune. I took off down the block this afternoon and was literally sideways through most of first and the beginning of second. Put a nice smile on my face.
The other way is to do a good CAI and tune which will get you near 300 hp at the tires.
Nitrous is always an option but more of a track aid than a street solution.
Headwork seems like it might be a nice option. But not completly worked out by the big tuner shops yet and always a pita since you have to tear into the top half of the motor.
Beyond that, I am still looking into what options are out there. I havent found much other than exhaust work which I am not convinced is the right place to look for power on these cars yet.
Right now, for this week at least, I am really happy with the way the car is running with the new intake and tune. I took off down the block this afternoon and was literally sideways through most of first and the beginning of second. Put a nice smile on my face.
07-30-2006, 02:44 AM
#4
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RE: The cheapest way to put down around 325-350rwhp?
supercarger is like 5000 bucks which l dont have.. so that is not an option for me.. about Nitrous.. l am not a nitrous guy.. l dont wanna ruin my car. l want something N/A..
what is the best CAI? and which kind of tune is gonna make me gain the most HP? about exhaust, l have heard that stock exhaust is good for performance.. l would like to go with longtube headers. and also how about performance chip? if get one, how many hp would l put down with just tune, CAI, chip?
what is the best CAI? and which kind of tune is gonna make me gain the most HP? about exhaust, l have heard that stock exhaust is good for performance.. l would like to go with longtube headers. and also how about performance chip? if get one, how many hp would l put down with just tune, CAI, chip?
07-30-2006, 02:46 AM
#5
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RE: The cheapest way to put down around 325-350rwhp?
[sm=nxsmile.gif]Just be careful not to nuke your motor. I know you said you don't like it but thats the quickest easiest way to get power. Most systems are safe nowadays but I'm not a big fan of it myself however it is a little tempting.
07-30-2006, 02:52 AM
#6
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RE: The cheapest way to put down around 325-350rwhp?
Our cars dont have "performance chips" Those are totally worthless on our cars. Our car isnt your conventional piece of junk asian car where you have to replace the entire computer with a new one just because you want to add some performance, ours you just reflash the computer with a tuner and it changes the computer to include modifications youve added. So first thing is to take the "performance chip" idea out of your head. Second, just buy an intake and tuner and be done with it.
07-30-2006, 04:25 AM
#7
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RE: The cheapest way to put down around 325-350rwhp?
Dig into the magazines and keep your eyes open for what they are testing.
Check out RPMoutlet.com They are offering a kit that includes the Dibilosport Tuner and C&L CAI, and a few pullies to boot etc...
I have not researched the pullies yet, they can cause idle issues, battery issues and heating issues if designed poorly. Althougth I would not forsee this being a problem. The kit is only $699.95 and claims 33.4 hrspwr at the rear wheels which seems to be accurate.
This is a start, leave the exhaust alone, not much there $ to hrspwr wise. The blower will drop in price as new company's offer up competition...I know it is expensive but that is all you will ever need.
P.S. If you want you could go with 4:10 gears which will be the best bang for the buck so to speak. They will utilize the power you have know by putting you into the power band quicker...those and the mods listed above would probably satisfy your itch for awhile.
Check out RPMoutlet.com They are offering a kit that includes the Dibilosport Tuner and C&L CAI, and a few pullies to boot etc...
I have not researched the pullies yet, they can cause idle issues, battery issues and heating issues if designed poorly. Althougth I would not forsee this being a problem. The kit is only $699.95 and claims 33.4 hrspwr at the rear wheels which seems to be accurate.
This is a start, leave the exhaust alone, not much there $ to hrspwr wise. The blower will drop in price as new company's offer up competition...I know it is expensive but that is all you will ever need.
P.S. If you want you could go with 4:10 gears which will be the best bang for the buck so to speak. They will utilize the power you have know by putting you into the power band quicker...those and the mods listed above would probably satisfy your itch for awhile.
07-30-2006, 09:49 AM
#8
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RE: The cheapest way to put down around 325-350rwhp?
If this 75 shot kit is safe then that's the cheapest way. Add a CAI for good measure and you're there. I wouldn't have a problem using nitrous if it doesn't hurt the engine. Plus if it were street legal in Florida that would be a nice bonus. I'll probably just wait for a blower that isn't insanely priced.
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_2005/nitrous.html
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_2005/nitrous.html
ORIGINAL: Timmay!!!
[sm=nxsmile.gif]Just be careful not to nuke your motor. I know you said you don't like it but thats the quickest easiest way to get power. Most systems are safe nowadays but I'm not a big fan of it myself however it is a little tempting.
[sm=nxsmile.gif]Just be careful not to nuke your motor. I know you said you don't like it but thats the quickest easiest way to get power. Most systems are safe nowadays but I'm not a big fan of it myself however it is a little tempting.
07-30-2006, 12:00 PM
#9
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RE: The cheapest way to put down around 325-350rwhp?
Alright,
Me: 5spd, stock gearing. O/R H-pipe, SLP loudmouths, C&L intake and 93 Evolution tune = 300.5 RWHP.
Dkano: Auto, 3.73 gearing. Steeda UDP. C&L Intake and 93 Evolution tune. Roughly 290-295 RWHP.
I think I was at a disadvantage for not having any back pressure with my exhaust, and he was at a disadvantage for having an Auto.
With that being said, I think the UDP do a great job at making some power. -- I also think freeing up the exhaust is a good start. If you want to reach 325-350 RWHP... I'd say Intake & Tune, UDP, O/R Midpipe (X or H), Long tube headers. I don't think you would need to crack into the engine to get the power you need. Right there I'd say you were looking at $1900. That's not including installation if you choose to go that route.
I'd then go with 4.10 gears, Aluminum one piece driveshaft, and a new flywheel/clutch. These won't give your engine more power, but it'll reduce the rotating assembly's weight so that your engine doesn't have to lose as much power going through. -- I imagine that'll be another $2000. That combined you're looking at $3900, again not including installation.
You are nearing the cost of what a supercharger would cost, but there are pros and cons to every situation. The pros are, you don't need to fork it all over in one shot, everything you've done will most likely help you when/if you decide to go Forced Induction, and you wouldn't have even opened the engine up so there will be plenty of power to achieve! The cons, you could get more power with a supercharger, and have it be over with... though if you want even more power you will need to do those bolt ons that you chose not to do in order to get your supercharger.
Finally.., if you decide not to go with the second half (IE gears, driveshaft, flywheel/clutch) then you can simply get the others and I'd imagine you will put around 335-350 rwhp... which is pretty much what you wanted in the first place.
Me: 5spd, stock gearing. O/R H-pipe, SLP loudmouths, C&L intake and 93 Evolution tune = 300.5 RWHP.
Dkano: Auto, 3.73 gearing. Steeda UDP. C&L Intake and 93 Evolution tune. Roughly 290-295 RWHP.
I think I was at a disadvantage for not having any back pressure with my exhaust, and he was at a disadvantage for having an Auto.
With that being said, I think the UDP do a great job at making some power. -- I also think freeing up the exhaust is a good start. If you want to reach 325-350 RWHP... I'd say Intake & Tune, UDP, O/R Midpipe (X or H), Long tube headers. I don't think you would need to crack into the engine to get the power you need. Right there I'd say you were looking at $1900. That's not including installation if you choose to go that route.
I'd then go with 4.10 gears, Aluminum one piece driveshaft, and a new flywheel/clutch. These won't give your engine more power, but it'll reduce the rotating assembly's weight so that your engine doesn't have to lose as much power going through. -- I imagine that'll be another $2000. That combined you're looking at $3900, again not including installation.
You are nearing the cost of what a supercharger would cost, but there are pros and cons to every situation. The pros are, you don't need to fork it all over in one shot, everything you've done will most likely help you when/if you decide to go Forced Induction, and you wouldn't have even opened the engine up so there will be plenty of power to achieve! The cons, you could get more power with a supercharger, and have it be over with... though if you want even more power you will need to do those bolt ons that you chose not to do in order to get your supercharger.
Finally.., if you decide not to go with the second half (IE gears, driveshaft, flywheel/clutch) then you can simply get the others and I'd imagine you will put around 335-350 rwhp... which is pretty much what you wanted in the first place.
07-30-2006, 12:24 PM
#10
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RE: The cheapest way to put down around 325-350rwhp?
One other thing to note in the efforts to get HP to those levels. You might want to consider suspension upgrades that will help put the HP to the ground for you, otherwise you're just spinning wheels at takeoff more often.
For a set of LTH's there also the possible problem of needing an engine mount to move the motor ever so slightly, therefore necessitating an O2 harness extension (as it was in the particular set up I'm going for).
LTH, XPipe (with cats in my case to pass emissions), Magnaflow Catbacks (or any for that matter), CAI with SCT2 and dyno'd custom tune, with the associated harness and engine mount was going to cost me ballpark - $2200, but alot of that's because of the brands I chose in the exhaust system (JBA LTH, JBA Xpipe, Magnaflow catback). It can differ up or down pretty significantly. That's before installation.
Add in my suspension work - another $645 before installation. For just the above, you can definitely get started for a reasonable amount of money, and my estimated rwhp was going to be in the 315 area.
(In my case, my mods package has alot more in it tho, so it's still significantly higher than just the above - I might break down, pinch a few more pennies and just go the SC+basic suspension route first and do these other things piecemeal over time later - It's really about paying up front at once, or being able to break it down alot more for most of us).
For a set of LTH's there also the possible problem of needing an engine mount to move the motor ever so slightly, therefore necessitating an O2 harness extension (as it was in the particular set up I'm going for).
LTH, XPipe (with cats in my case to pass emissions), Magnaflow Catbacks (or any for that matter), CAI with SCT2 and dyno'd custom tune, with the associated harness and engine mount was going to cost me ballpark - $2200, but alot of that's because of the brands I chose in the exhaust system (JBA LTH, JBA Xpipe, Magnaflow catback). It can differ up or down pretty significantly. That's before installation.
Add in my suspension work - another $645 before installation. For just the above, you can definitely get started for a reasonable amount of money, and my estimated rwhp was going to be in the 315 area.
(In my case, my mods package has alot more in it tho, so it's still significantly higher than just the above - I might break down, pinch a few more pennies and just go the SC+basic suspension route first and do these other things piecemeal over time later - It's really about paying up front at once, or being able to break it down alot more for most of us).