Riggs007

So am changing all my internal parts, CNC Heads, forged pistons/rods and stage 2 cam. Other making the engine stonger/ready for a S/C. Will these parts make any HP on there own?

cekim

1. don't forget about the crank - might as well upgrade that while you are there!
2. on the bottom end, any gains you might get would come from:
a. lighter parts - don't know which parts you are using so hard to say - but if they are lighter than stock, you get some gains there
b. ceramic coatings on the pistons _can_ allow you to get more extreme with the tune and keep things cooler (prevent detonation)
3. ported/polished heads will get you some HP.
4. cams on a 3V are iffy - measured gains so far seem pretty small, but they are there
5. obviously if you added a little stroke, you get more displacement and thus more HP
6. For FI, you would want to keep compression the same at a minimum, but for N/A you might want to bump it up.

So, if you did all that, yes, you should see some additional HP N/A - nothing like what you can get from S/C (50-100% more HP), but nothing to sneeze at either. Stroking and the heads would likely be the biggest gains. I have no idea what the specifics of your mods are, but 15-20% seems readily achievable without stroke.

That assumes that the parts are lighter than stock and that you don't erase those gains with a heavier clutch.

Also, if your heads are prep'd for FI, the intake can be polished to a shine and opened up more which won't be good for N/A (but is good for FI)... So, there are some tradeoffs (compression/port/polish) there that would take you down closer to 10-15% rather than 20-30% gains without FI.

IMHO you can skip the cams for now - mostly cosmetic, prticularly for FI...

Riggs007

sorry forgot about the crank. Basically im trying to copy the Livernois Motorsports GT. My researched showed that if i wanted to get the full befits of the new Heads I should change the cam as well.

Riggs007

and im trying to make the engine stronger so i dont blow a rod through the side...

cekim

Understood... weight reduction in a block by poking holes in it generally reduces power pretty quickly

Short answer is yes, you'll get some more power, but $/HP WITHOUT making use of the additional strength is a bit lacking... So, don't stop there

Riggs007

i dont plan on stopping anywhere near there. The next step is to pick the right s/c setup. The car is not a daily driver, so i would like to hit the 600rwhp mark and i dont see any roots style hitting that mark, but they seem to be more reliable. I was probally going with a paxton or a procharger

cekim

JDM is close - around 566 last I read...

The newer larger KB might have an easier time up there. Hitting those numbers with a Centri seems to be at least as "fun" as it will be with a screw owing to belt issues - if not more owing to flexing of brackets and impulse response of the pulley when you let off...

If 600RWHP really is a must and represents the least you will be happy with, have you considered turbo?

I am not a turbo guy myself for emissions testing and theological reasons, but up there and beyond belt issues become omni present without some heavy-handed fixes. "out of the box" twin turbo seems like an easier way to get up there and beyond.

Riggs007

i never did mush reseaching on turbos but like you, not a fan anyway. Livernois is hitting 770rwhp with the set up that im trying for, with a Procharger F1A s/c. I do understand that this cars are really for show and probally not ran alot. I just want to make sure that its reliable enough that, when i line up against a vette or viper that i dont blow holes through the block after 4 runs. Like i said this car is a toy and only gets ran 4 days a month cause im gone to work, i live in a town of 30,000 and i want to have the fastest figgin car here...i feel i already have the hottest looking...

05 GT Black
3dcarbon 11 piece Boy racer Kit
20" AR Rogue black rims
Gen I headlights
Elenor Hood/Pins
Rear Tail light black outs

Sorry computer sucks says file to big to post pic

wakebord99

Hello, I'm a big fan of any kind of Forced Induction. Alot of experience with Turbos and Superchargers.

To put it really simple, it depends on what you are looking for. And i've listed a few thoughts below.

- Turbo Systems - Excellent for Drag racing or for showing max horsepower. You can buy the most expensive ball bearing turbo available that will allow you to reach 700 whp, but no matter how good of a tuner you are when that turbo comes in it will come in a surge and REALLY strong. Think about it like this.. 322hp > 337hp>352hp>497hp>596hp>597hp ... not the best "usable" kind of horsepower, especially around the street

- Superchargers - Better for around town driving, however a paracitic loss in power due to it beind driven by the engine itself. The horsepower comes on more linierly (sp?) or in a rush like the tubo depending on how you have it setup. Usually a cooler intake charge (keeps engine cooler). Lower overall horsepower.


Also biggie here.. If your building your engine with the sole intention of hitting big numbers through FI, make sure you lower your compression ratio. Generally 8.5 - 9.5:1 compressions are your best bet. The lower your engine compression the more overall horsepower you can make due to increased boost pressures, however at the expense of immediate responsiveness in that boost pressure. Again, it all comes down to how you want the power to come up.

Most hp possible 8.5:1 compression with a VERY large turbo and VERY large intercooler
Most streetable 9.5:1 compression with moderate sized supercharger and intercooler

Riggs007

Well i guess i should take other look at turbos then, since drag racing is more what im looking for, could you point me in the right direction at where is should look?