2006 Mustang GT. Normally Aspirated or Supercharged?
12-01-2007, 06:06 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 1
2006 Mustang GT. Normally Aspirated or Supercharged?
First of all, I would like to say hello to everyone as this is my first post.
Now, my subject is this: I have a 2006 Mustang GT automatic. My intention is to build a Shelby GT500 rival. I have the exterior, interior, brakes, wheels, tires, and handling parts all figured out. As far as engine and exhaust is concerned, I thought it would be interesting to see how for I could push things without forced induction while still maintaining civilized road manners. Here is what I have come up:
1. Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) drag pack which includes a 90 mm cold air intake, shorty headers, 3.73 rear gears, and a pro-cal tuner
2. FRPP left / right CNC machined heads plus appropriate camshaft, followers and hydraulic lash adjusters
3. FRPP axle-back racing mufflers
4. FRPP x-pipe
5. FRPP charge motion plates / control valve
6. Steeda underdrive pulley system
7. GT500 Oversize 62mm throttle body
8. 67mm thottle body spacer
9. Plasma Booster (check mossmustang.com)
10. Oil Cooler Kit (check mossmustang.com)
11. Performance Windage Tray (check mossmustang.com)
12. Spark Plug Connector Kit (check mossmustang.com)
Price for items 1 through 12 is roughly $6550 minus installation and, if my math is right, about 174hp over stock. I realize some of the horsepower figures quoted by distributers are at the crank shaft, but I figure most are at the rear wheels. All of this would be mated to a Level 10 automatic transmission and clutch system (levelten.com).
What do you guys think? Am I missing anything? Anything unnecessary / dangerous? Should I scrap the whole idea and just do the exhaust, transmission, gears, and a Paxton NOVI 2200? Thanks.[/align]
Now, my subject is this: I have a 2006 Mustang GT automatic. My intention is to build a Shelby GT500 rival. I have the exterior, interior, brakes, wheels, tires, and handling parts all figured out. As far as engine and exhaust is concerned, I thought it would be interesting to see how for I could push things without forced induction while still maintaining civilized road manners. Here is what I have come up:
1. Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) drag pack which includes a 90 mm cold air intake, shorty headers, 3.73 rear gears, and a pro-cal tuner
2. FRPP left / right CNC machined heads plus appropriate camshaft, followers and hydraulic lash adjusters
3. FRPP axle-back racing mufflers
4. FRPP x-pipe
5. FRPP charge motion plates / control valve
6. Steeda underdrive pulley system
7. GT500 Oversize 62mm throttle body
8. 67mm thottle body spacer
9. Plasma Booster (check mossmustang.com)
10. Oil Cooler Kit (check mossmustang.com)
11. Performance Windage Tray (check mossmustang.com)
12. Spark Plug Connector Kit (check mossmustang.com)
Price for items 1 through 12 is roughly $6550 minus installation and, if my math is right, about 174hp over stock. I realize some of the horsepower figures quoted by distributers are at the crank shaft, but I figure most are at the rear wheels. All of this would be mated to a Level 10 automatic transmission and clutch system (levelten.com).
What do you guys think? Am I missing anything? Anything unnecessary / dangerous? Should I scrap the whole idea and just do the exhaust, transmission, gears, and a Paxton NOVI 2200? Thanks.[/align]
12-01-2007, 06:34 PM
#2
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 889
RE: 2006 Mustang GT. Normally Aspirated or Supercharged?
ORIGINAL: djbwg83
First of all, I would like to say hello to everyone as this is my first post.
Now, my subject is this: I have a 2006 Mustang GT automatic. My intention is to build a Shelby GT500 rival. I have the exterior, interior, brakes, wheels, tires, and handling parts all figured out. As far as engine and exhaust is concerned, I thought it would be interesting to see how for I could push things without forced induction while still maintaining civilized road manners. Here is what I have come up:
1. Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) drag pack which includes a 90 mm cold air intake, shorty headers, 3.73 rear gears, and a pro-cal tuner
2. FRPP left / right CNC machined heads plus appropriate camshaft, followers and hydraulic lash adjusters
3. FRPP axle-back racing mufflers
4. FRPP x-pipe
5. FRPP charge motion plates / control valve
6. Steeda underdrive pulley system
7. GT500 Oversize 62mm throttle body
8. 67mm thottle body spacer
9. Plasma Booster (check mossmustang.com)
10. Oil Cooler Kit (check mossmustang.com)
11. Performance Windage Tray (check mossmustang.com)
12. Spark Plug Connector Kit (check mossmustang.com)
Price for items 1 through 12 is roughly $6550 minus installation and, if my math is right, about 174hp over stock. I realize some of the horsepower figures quoted by distributers are at the crank shaft, but I figure most are at the rear wheels. All of this would be mated to a Level 10 automatic transmission and clutch system (levelten.com).
What do you guys think? Am I missing anything? Anything unnecessary / dangerous? Should I scrap the whole idea and just do the exhaust, transmission, gears, and a Paxton NOVI 2200? Thanks.[/align]
First of all, I would like to say hello to everyone as this is my first post.
Now, my subject is this: I have a 2006 Mustang GT automatic. My intention is to build a Shelby GT500 rival. I have the exterior, interior, brakes, wheels, tires, and handling parts all figured out. As far as engine and exhaust is concerned, I thought it would be interesting to see how for I could push things without forced induction while still maintaining civilized road manners. Here is what I have come up:
1. Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) drag pack which includes a 90 mm cold air intake, shorty headers, 3.73 rear gears, and a pro-cal tuner
2. FRPP left / right CNC machined heads plus appropriate camshaft, followers and hydraulic lash adjusters
3. FRPP axle-back racing mufflers
4. FRPP x-pipe
5. FRPP charge motion plates / control valve
6. Steeda underdrive pulley system
7. GT500 Oversize 62mm throttle body
8. 67mm thottle body spacer
9. Plasma Booster (check mossmustang.com)
10. Oil Cooler Kit (check mossmustang.com)
11. Performance Windage Tray (check mossmustang.com)
12. Spark Plug Connector Kit (check mossmustang.com)
Price for items 1 through 12 is roughly $6550 minus installation and, if my math is right, about 174hp over stock. I realize some of the horsepower figures quoted by distributers are at the crank shaft, but I figure most are at the rear wheels. All of this would be mated to a Level 10 automatic transmission and clutch system (levelten.com).
What do you guys think? Am I missing anything? Anything unnecessary / dangerous? Should I scrap the whole idea and just do the exhaust, transmission, gears, and a Paxton NOVI 2200? Thanks.[/align]
The cheapest(certainly the most practical) path to GT500 level power is through F/I.
As you are just getting started you might think about upgrading to a CAI, Tuner as a first step.
And read, read, read
.
12-01-2007, 06:39 PM
#3
RE: 2006 Mustang GT. Normally Aspirated or Supercharged?
you will need FI to complete with a GT500.....i would scrath the list and go striaght for the kill with the Paxton, gears, LTs and aim for 450-475 HP at the wheels, dont know if the paxton gets you there, but that should be enough to take stock gt500 and make them cry
12-01-2007, 06:42 PM
#4
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 774
RE: 2006 Mustang GT. Normally Aspirated or Supercharged?
+1...Yes please do some more research. Things such as the shorties and TBS will really provide no gains. For the price you have listed you could easily go FI and be in numbers in excess of 450rwhp which is the territory you have to be in to keep up with the stock GT500. I'm pretty sure the parts you have listed below will not get you in that range.
BTW...welcome to the forums and you will soon see that there is a ton of information available here. Good luck!
BTW...welcome to the forums and you will soon see that there is a ton of information available here. Good luck!
12-01-2007, 11:12 PM
#8
Multi-Tasking Moderator!
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Detroit Rock City!
Posts: 15,618
RE: 2006 Mustang GT. Normally Aspirated or Supercharged?
Welcome to the forum!!!! I am doing the same thing and (mygt500) means my =mine (J) GT= grand touring and 500= over 500 HP at the crank.....it has other meanings to me as well but that is for me to know and others to ask if they want!Anyway I would go with FI...most bang for the buck IMO and I can beat a GT500 already. (yes I did race one once) I would guess that mine is already a rival to the GT500 and have some brake and suspension mods to do next year that will surpass the GT500 IMHO. All the mods are great but as you know you cant add all them up as a collective total and get those gains and most advertise in HP at the crank. Go for the mods I highlighted at the bottom of your original post and you will be very, very happy with you new stang which is what it will feel like when all parts are applied and felt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! JMO J
for some reason c o ll e c tive is filtered where the **** are!
Anyway I would go with FI...most bang for the buck IMO and I can beat a GT500 already. (yes I did race one once) I would guess that mine is already a rival to the GT500 and have some brake and suspension mods to do next year that will surpass the GT500 IMHO. All the mods are great but as you know you cant add all them up as a collective total and get those gains and most advertise in HP at the crank. Go for the mods I highlighted at the bottom of your original post and you will be very, very happy with you new stang which is what it will feel like when all parts are applied and felt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! JMO Jfor some reason c o ll e c tive is filtered where the **** are!
ORIGINAL: djbwg83
First of all, I would like to say hello to everyone as this is my first post.
Now, my subject is this: I have a 2006 Mustang GT automatic. My intention is to build a Shelby GT500 rival. I have the exterior, interior, brakes, wheels, tires, and handling parts all figured out. As far as engine and exhaust is concerned, I thought it would be interesting to see how for I could push things without forced induction while still maintaining civilized road manners. Here is what I have come up:
1. Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) drag pack which includes a 90 mm cold air intake, shorty headers, 3.73 rear gears, and a pro-cal tuner
2. FRPP left / right CNC machined heads plus appropriate camshaft, followers and hydraulic lash adjusters
3. FRPP axle-back racing mufflers
4. FRPP x-pipe
5. FRPP charge motion plates / control valve
6. Steeda underdrive pulley system
7. GT500 Oversize 62mm throttle body
8. 67mm thottle body spacer
9. Plasma Booster (check mossmustang.com)
10. Oil Cooler Kit (check mossmustang.com)
11. Performance Windage Tray (check mossmustang.com)
12. Spark Plug Connector Kit (check mossmustang.com)
Price for items 1 through 12 is roughly $6550 minus installation and, if my math is right, about 174hp over stock. I realize some of the horsepower figures quoted by distributers are at the crank shaft, but I figure most are at the rear wheels. All of this would be mated to a Level 10 automatic transmission and clutch system (levelten.com).
What do you guys think? Am I missing anything? Anything unnecessary / dangerous? Should I scrap the whole idea and just do the exhaust, transmission, gears, and a Paxton NOVI 2200? Thanks.[/align]
First of all, I would like to say hello to everyone as this is my first post.
Now, my subject is this: I have a 2006 Mustang GT automatic. My intention is to build a Shelby GT500 rival. I have the exterior, interior, brakes, wheels, tires, and handling parts all figured out. As far as engine and exhaust is concerned, I thought it would be interesting to see how for I could push things without forced induction while still maintaining civilized road manners. Here is what I have come up:
1. Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) drag pack which includes a 90 mm cold air intake, shorty headers, 3.73 rear gears, and a pro-cal tuner
2. FRPP left / right CNC machined heads plus appropriate camshaft, followers and hydraulic lash adjusters
3. FRPP axle-back racing mufflers
4. FRPP x-pipe
5. FRPP charge motion plates / control valve
6. Steeda underdrive pulley system
7. GT500 Oversize 62mm throttle body
8. 67mm thottle body spacer
9. Plasma Booster (check mossmustang.com)
10. Oil Cooler Kit (check mossmustang.com)
11. Performance Windage Tray (check mossmustang.com)
12. Spark Plug Connector Kit (check mossmustang.com)
Price for items 1 through 12 is roughly $6550 minus installation and, if my math is right, about 174hp over stock. I realize some of the horsepower figures quoted by distributers are at the crank shaft, but I figure most are at the rear wheels. All of this would be mated to a Level 10 automatic transmission and clutch system (levelten.com).
What do you guys think? Am I missing anything? Anything unnecessary / dangerous? Should I scrap the whole idea and just do the exhaust, transmission, gears, and a Paxton NOVI 2200? Thanks.[/align]
12-03-2007, 12:10 AM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 4,491
RE: 2006 Mustang GT. Normally Aspirated or Supercharged?
ORIGINAL: djbwg83
First of all, I would like to say hello to everyone as this is my first post.
Now, my subject is this: I have a 2006 Mustang GT automatic. My intention is to build a Shelby GT500 rival. I have the exterior, interior, brakes, wheels, tires, and handling parts all figured out. As far as engine and exhaust is concerned, I thought it would be interesting to see how for I could push things without forced induction while still maintaining civilized road manners. Here is what I have come up:
1. Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) drag pack which includes a 90 mm cold air intake, shorty headers, 3.73 rear gears, and a pro-cal tuner
2. FRPP left / right CNC machined heads plus appropriate camshaft, followers and hydraulic lash adjusters
3. FRPP axle-back racing mufflers
4. FRPP x-pipe
5. FRPP charge motion plates / control valve
6. Steeda underdrive pulley system
7. GT500 Oversize 62mm throttle body
8. 67mm thottle body spacer
9. Plasma Booster (check mossmustang.com)
10. Oil Cooler Kit (check mossmustang.com)
11. Performance Windage Tray (check mossmustang.com)
12. Spark Plug Connector Kit (check mossmustang.com)
Price for items 1 through 12 is roughly $6550 minus installation and, if my math is right, about 174hp over stock. I realize some of the horsepower figures quoted by distributers are at the crank shaft, but I figure most are at the rear wheels. All of this would be mated to a Level 10 automatic transmission and clutch system (levelten.com).
What do you guys think? Am I missing anything? Anything unnecessary / dangerous? Should I scrap the whole idea and just do the exhaust, transmission, gears, and a Paxton NOVI 2200? Thanks.[/align]
First of all, I would like to say hello to everyone as this is my first post.
Now, my subject is this: I have a 2006 Mustang GT automatic. My intention is to build a Shelby GT500 rival. I have the exterior, interior, brakes, wheels, tires, and handling parts all figured out. As far as engine and exhaust is concerned, I thought it would be interesting to see how for I could push things without forced induction while still maintaining civilized road manners. Here is what I have come up:
1. Ford Racing Performance Parts (FRPP) drag pack which includes a 90 mm cold air intake, shorty headers, 3.73 rear gears, and a pro-cal tuner
2. FRPP left / right CNC machined heads plus appropriate camshaft, followers and hydraulic lash adjusters
3. FRPP axle-back racing mufflers
4. FRPP x-pipe
5. FRPP charge motion plates / control valve
6. Steeda underdrive pulley system
7. GT500 Oversize 62mm throttle body
8. 67mm thottle body spacer
9. Plasma Booster (check mossmustang.com)
10. Oil Cooler Kit (check mossmustang.com)
11. Performance Windage Tray (check mossmustang.com)
12. Spark Plug Connector Kit (check mossmustang.com)
Price for items 1 through 12 is roughly $6550 minus installation and, if my math is right, about 174hp over stock. I realize some of the horsepower figures quoted by distributers are at the crank shaft, but I figure most are at the rear wheels. All of this would be mated to a Level 10 automatic transmission and clutch system (levelten.com).
What do you guys think? Am I missing anything? Anything unnecessary / dangerous? Should I scrap the whole idea and just do the exhaust, transmission, gears, and a Paxton NOVI 2200? Thanks.[/align]