Crazy Horse08

I just got my ZEX nitrous kit working last night. I still want to clean up the wiring and see about running all the 12 volt source wires to the battery. I also need to get the remote bottle opener running. But let me tell you. Last night may have been the biggest smile I was capable of producing (and I got married once[8D]). It makes me want more, but I must resist the urge for now. I cant wait till I get my window switch in so I can really lay into it. I do have one question though. For those of you running this kit, where does your solenoid activate in relation to pedal to floor position. Mine seems to activate a little after half way. I held the Pedal to the floor during the systems learn mode, but it still activates at that position. Is it just that the TPS is operating at full voltage at this position or is is it somthing else? Thanks in advance.

Crazy Horse08

Nobody?[&o]

jahudso2

I dont know how to help you, but if I were you, I wouldnt spray until I fixed that tps problem. I have seen a cobra on a dyno blow up his intake manifold b/c he didnt have a tps switch and his nitrous puddled in the intake. But I hope you fix it soon, I bet it feels awesome when you spray some of that giggle gas.

Simon1

That's just right actually. I sprayed off the line almost everytime with the ZEX kit and had ZERO issues. I didn't have the window switch or remote opener, but I had the purge and bottle heater.

When you launch at the track your above the magical 2500 rpm mark. When you get the track make sure you have DRs. My first pass on the bottle I went sideways and almost hit the wall on the other side of the track. That was on the stock perellis. Get some DRs before you go.

Simon1

Usually when the nitrous is puddling in the intake it's because there is a leak. Hopefully you used the thread sealer like they suggested and pressurized the system to check for leaks prior to starting it.

After you go through a few heat cycles with the kit on, re-check the connections for leaks. There a few times that after the car was heated up and had a few runs that there was a small leak at the solanoid connection.

My biggest issue witht he kit was getting the TPS connected securely. It always came off. I fixed it eventually but it was a pain in the ***. Imagine hit the switch and nothing happening??? Severals time it happened.

Crazy Horse08

Thanks for the input guys. So I gather the half pedal full throttle voltage is correct off of what You are saying simon1? I did a few more runs today and it would seem that some times the system doesnt activate. I may have to check the connection to the tps again. What did you do to keep the connection from coming loose. I am thinking of striping the wire and soldering then shrink wraping to make sure I get the best connection. Thanks again. Oh and I plan on geting LCA's and Bf goodrich drag radials with the 275 width for the rear with the stock g force sports for the front to solve or atleast inprove the new found traction issues.

Crazy Horse08

Well traction problem solved. I pulled the trigger on the BF Goodrich DOT drag Radials, BMR LCA's. In addition I ordered a Digital nitrous gauge andA pillar dual gauge pod. ZEX window switch and FR500 style wheels 18x9 fronts and 18x10 rears for the new meats out rear, they are gloss black to mach my paint with polished and staggared lips. I also purchased steeda UDP's for trading to a friend for his near new Bassani high flow catted x pipe. This week will be a good week

Simon1

To solve the problem I actually cut the wire, oplaced it in a female bullet connector and put the wire to the solanoid on male connector. It's actually still like that, I haven't changed it since the turbo.

almoststock05gt

Sorry to hijack the thread,how easy was the install?I am looking into buying the zex kit but am a little leery on the wiring part of it, epecially since I want to run a window switch. I havedone alot of research but still not sure about the wiring. Any help is appreciated

Crazy Horse08

Well the bottle and plumbing are fairly straight forward. Just so long as you have a basic understanding of wiring you should be alright. I found that labeling the wires and which componet they went toto helped alot, ie I labeled the bottle opener positive wire" bt op +" on blue painters tape I fashioned into a flag if you will and labeled the bottle opener negative wire "bt op -" this helped alot because with the heater and opener wires having to be routed from the trunk left four total wires runing the length of the car. But when you get it where you are mounting your switches it will make the final connections safe and worry free. Other than that it is just a matter of where to source power. I taped into the console 12 volt accesory plug power wire, but I now plan on routing wire from the battery positive terminal directly to the switches to ensure each component is recieving adequete power and is not drawing to much from one small wire.

Question for you simon one. I am starting to think the fill station I used gave me the shaft. Every time I purge the system I here air yet rairly see the plume usually asociated with nitrous. Is it possible the fill station was near empty and they filled my bottle near full with pressurized air?