Hi all,

I have a couple questions regarding install of shorty headers (specifically BBK tuned length):

1. Can the engine be left in place during install? (i.e. just remove oil dipstick, alternator, etc..)?
2. Are aftermarket motor mounts required? I thought I read somewhere about these headers making contact when the motor torques.

Thanks,

Scott

 

I installed those headers on my car. 1. If I understand what you mean by "leave the engine in place," you have to unbolt the motor mounts and jack the engine up. 2. There is no need to remove the alternator. Once the headers are installed they won't contact anything there so there is no need to replace them unless you just want to.

 

Thanks for the reply! And to jack up the engine you need to unbolt the steering linkage correct? What did you use to support the motor and where?

Thanks,

Scott

 

Yes, you have to unbolt the steering linkage and I used a 2x4 under the oil pan. Follow this article http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techar...o_results.html

 

Awesome guide! Thanks a lot!

Scott

 

If you have access to an engine lift, use that to lift the engine up a bit, give you more room to move around under there.

I lossened the tranny Brace, Dropped the Engine Mounts, Dropped the starter, Pulled the Steering shaft, and had to move some other wiring harnesses to get at the O2 sensors on the factory down tubes. Helps to have someone up top helping set them in when putting the gaskets and headers back on the bolts, if you reuse the factory posts, some you can others you cannot.

It isn't an easy job, but you'll get a sense of accomplishment once it is finished.

Oh yeah, and do some sit ups in preparation for a long day on your back. It's a hella Ab Workout.

 

i did this install my self as well here is a link to some tips.. i gave another guy doing the same install

https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...er-instal.html


as to motor mounts you dont need them but id put them in now it will save time . . you already have the motor off em so why not. . .

 

The steering column must be taken apart at the shaft to get the old out and new in. One bolt on the shaft, and you have to remove the two nuts on the inside where the column mounts to the floor and pull it back JUST ENOUGH TO SEPARATE THE SHAFT, no more. Just drop it back down without letting it turn. An 18in extension, swivel, and 10mm socket makes getting the top starter bolt a breeze. Pulling the A/C compressor off the block and pushing it forward allows easy acces to the bolts when tightening down the new header. Having a 10 and 11mm ratcheting wrench makes the harder-to-get-to bolts much easier as well.

You wont have to lift the engine when pulling out both the factory logs, but you will have to to get the passenger side shorty in.

Good luck to ya if you plan on doing this on the ground with only jackstands. Not the easiest thing but doable.