Hadn't thought too much about it. Would be the perfect time to do it.

About the clearances: After finding out how tight they are I see the importance of a low viscosity oil. I'll probably switch to a 0-20w after break in.

 

I would ask an engine builder that's done other S197 motors about how important the clearance is.

 

Simon,

Thanks for that advice. Looked up the proper way to measure side clearance and it turns out I measured wrong. I'm probably closer to .012-.013" but won't know for sure until I pull the windage tray off tomorrow and remeasure.

 

ok, i'm hoping that you actually have
any value between .010 - .020

 

New measurements are: .011, .010, .010, .011" I had assumed each end was measured instead of the total per pair of rods

 

very glad to see these new measurements
are within tolerance.

 

Yeah that's very good.

I don't want to start a whole new thread here but after my motor was built, the builder said the lightest he would use in the 3v built motors is 5-30. I ran dyno oil for 3000 then synthetic. Just FYI.

 

Congrats Bruce!...Looking good......ok quick question guys...Ford recommends 5-20 and some run 5-30 which is thinner correct? I am changing the oil toady on my stock but boosted motor and wonder if I should change to 5-30 instead of what I have been using which is 5-20. I live in MI....cold long winters and the car never sees snow, rain, or any temp below 40 degrees......thanks!

 

I run 5w-30 which is thicker. Thicker is better for hot climates like here in Tx. But, the temps right now would be ok with 5w-20. If you're in a colder climate, a thinner oil, like 5w-20 would probably be better, but 30 would not hurt.

 

I appreciate the fyi. I asked the machine shop about it too. Interesting answer from them. There are break in oils with more of something IIRC it's zinc and phosphorus. The main machinist/engine builder said he would do that for start up oil. He also said new performance motors are coming out of the factory with Mobil 1 and require no break in. He went on to say that the equipment they used on my block (Rottler diamond hone) is theoretically supposed to deliver a finish that requires little to no break in, although he didn't completely buy into that and would still break it in.

I will still break it in. I ordered a case of filters and will be doing a few oil changes right away. Like one after the first 30 minutes of run time. I'm trying to keep everything as clean as possible and bagging the motor when I'm not working on it but lint seems to be collecting on any oiled surface and it's difficult to remove after it's oiled. I imagine there is even more dust that I just can't see. Hopefully a few oil changes will suspend and flush any foreign particles.